Just Killed My Digitrax System

[D&J RailRoad]

I did check for shorts across the tracks after I disconnected the CSs. Also checked my work to see if I got cross eyed and connected the wrong track lead. No problems in any of these. I checked the loconet and it is all working fine. I tested it by removing the batteries from the DT100 and operating a sound loco from each of the five UP5s, the UR90 and the UR92.
I had four locos with sound on the track when this occured. Two were BLI locos with sound a Kato loco and an MTH, all with sound. I tested each of them for damage and luckly non were effected.

[kbkchooch]

Originally Posted by TrinityJayOne

I think DianneB is on the money here as there's no way this should happen in normal use. A simple short on the tracks wouldn't cause an arc like that.

Depending on exactly what's busted in the 2nd DB150 is it possible you could salvage it? There's a chance that the surge popped the first component in the circuit and then went no further, perhaps something relatively easy to replace like a capacitor or resistor. Obviously you'd use a different soldering iron.

+This is not the 1st time I have heard of an electric soldering Iron damaging a DCC system....even after the Iron is checked and nothing wrong is found.
It doesn't take much current feeding back to fry a system, 10 volts or so of DC current, fed into the system from "outside" can do it.

yet another reason why I like my Propane powered iron!

[D&J RailRoad]

I shipped the two CSs off to Digitrax today. $35 each for repair and return shipping plus $21 to ship them there. Gonna be real careful with the surviving CS.

[kjd]

And a new soldering iron?

[D&J RailRoad]

Originally Posted by kjd

And a new soldering iron?

Yeah. Actually I have a couple other irons. I will be taking a closer look at the offending iron before I chuck it.

[videobruce]

1. Exactly what soldering equipment do you have? Is/are they those run of the mill cheap "pencils' or are they a station that is temperature controlled?

You need to check the voltage on the tip while it is plugged in to ground. I bet that is/was your problem.

Those $10 'pencils' that run wide open continuously will 'leak' AC off the tip which may be worse depending on the polarity of the plug to the socket. I have a 'pencil', not a no name, but still non-temperature controlled 'iron' and depending on which way the plug is inserted will vary the voltage on the tip! I rarely use that and never for soldering with electronics.

[D&J RailRoad]

This is the soldering iron.
The label says Model Power to the left of the center oval it says SP 3075. I presume that is the model number. To the right it says 75w. Above the oval it says UL Cord and below the oval it says 110 - 120v.
That's interesting that you say the voltage will vary depending on how the plug is in the socket. I have noted that sometimes the iron doesn't melt the solder as soon as it does other times.

[videobruce]

1. That really wasn't good 30 years ago. It's not just old, it surely is not for sensitive soldering (what you were trying to do). Get rid of that. Throw it out. I'm sure that is the problem. It's not temperature controlled like a decent soldering station is which is what you need. It's also isn't grounded (probably the main problem).
What to look for;
A. A "station" with a separated base unit and a 'iron' with a holder and a long cord (if possible). I extended my two Weller stations with a extra replacement cord. Comes in handy many times,
B. Easily replaceable tips from a good selection. Fine, medium and large for different types of soldering,
C. Adjustable temperature control with readout,
D. Grounded, of course (I believe all of these are).

2. What I meant by difference voltage, is the 'leakage' from the tip of the iron to ground. The non temperature controlled "pencil" iron I have, leakage to ground from the tip is greater if the AC plug is reversed to the outlet. I measured it.

3. Do you have a DVM/DMM (Digital Volt Meter/Digital Multi-Meter)? If not get one. Something every hobbyist should have that works with any electronics. It is not limited to this hobby.
A. $50-$100 should get you a decent one. Think outside of the application,
B. Current up to 20 amps (both AC & DC),
C. NOT auto-ranging. They are slow to read since it has to set the range first before you see the reading,
D. RMS reading for measuring AC line voltage,
E. Just don't get it from Radio Shack or Harbor Freight.

You can try here;
http://www.multimeterwarehouse.com/specialmeters.htm
http://extech.com/instruments/categories.asp?catid=48

Weller is a good choice for soldering equipment. This is pretty basic with temperature control;
http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/we...lder/wes51.htm

The 411 Extech is decent multimeter and inexpensive;
http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/ex.../400series.htm

[D&J RailRoad]

Ok, thanks for the info. I have been using this one for at least ten years on everything from circuit boards the soldering rail joints.

[D&J RailRoad]

Got the two command stations back from Digitrax, all fixed. I installed them last night and trains are running again.
Now, the power to the tortoise machines is shorting out. Traced it down to were I had cut off the end of a multi-wire harness. Seems that when I cut the whole wire harness with diagonal cutters, the two wires carrying power for the turnouts made contact on the end.