Use of WD-40 for Locomotive Wheel Cleaning

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Greg@mnrr

Section Hand
I have used WD-40 on a pad to run my locomotives' wheels on for a cleaning procedure. The WD-40 did remove a lot of black dirt and the locomotives ran well after the cleaning.

I did notice that after the locomotives "sat" for awhile, they would act as if they had dirty wheels.

I have since stopped using WD-40 to clean locomotive wheels and now wonder if the WD-40 didn't leave some form of residue on the wheels that affected electrical pickup.

Has anyone else found this to be a problem if they use WD-40 as a wheel cleaner?

Thanks.

Greg
 

Selector

Well-Known Member
I don't know how it might affect pickup because I have used auto-transmission fluid on tracks just for kicks and it had no deleterious effect. The key is, what else is left behind that could cause problems. WD-40 is a penetrant and a water displacement medium. This suggests that it leaves a film behind to protect metal parts, and what effect it may have on rail pickup is anyone's guess.

About the ATF - it has to be the kind used in transmissions with plastic sending-unit cases. So, that would be Dextron III Mercon. I have used it on my locomotives to oil bearings and rod/pin pivots. I was going to tear down my second layout, and I wanted to test what ATF would do if I applied it to the rails. I had 3.5% grades. The train spread the ATF around well over about one hour (I wiped the rails in at least four places liberally with a rag soaked in the ATF). I didn't find it spinning anywhere, and at no time did I notice a degradation in pickup.

Back to WD-40: I see no reason not to use it, provided you keep it off the paint and plastics. Wipe up the metal tires well with a clean lint-free cloth and maybe use some alcohol to remove any residue. In fact, quite a few will just suggest you stick with alcohol in the first place.
 

goscrewyourselves

I'm the one
The problem with WD 40 is it leaves a residue which has a tendency to collect even more dirt and grime. WD 40 will most likely clean your wheels well - initially - but will also act as a magnet for other debris requiring more regular cleaning.

I also tried ATS (Auto Transmission Fluid) and that was a mistake. Reduced traction and a very slippery, oily (obvious) deposit left no matter how much paper towel I used to clean it off the track. Certainly would not recommend that at all.

Only thing I use om my track is 91% IA. It also has some issues but does a good job and doesn't leave any residue behind. For my wife's little layout, I simply squirt the IA on the track (virtually flood it) and let the train run through it. That not only cleans the rails but also the wheels and I have never had an issue with the track work or the engine or rolling stock.
 

KB02

Well-Known Member
I engaged in a deep, thorough, cleaning of all my rails prior to trying some No-Ox. The cleaning involved starting with WD-40 as that was the best I could think of to get the bulk of the crap off the rails. I followed that with a dry rub to remove any excess and then the IA to get the residue. It took some time, but the rails were great afterwards. Then I tried the No-Ox which I highly DO NOT recommend. I ha to use the WD-40 again to clean that stuff off. It made my connectivity issues worse. And my one big grade was nearly insurmountable by all but a couple locos with no more than two or three cars in tow.

The ATF trick worked very well for me and my trains have retained great connectivity with the track even after sitting for extended periods (like this last summer). (Don't overuse it. Just rub some on a couple inches of track every 4-8 feet and let the trains spread it around.)

As for the WD-40. It's great at cleaning off the crap on your wheels. But then I recommend cleaning off the cleaner.
 

jdetray

Well-Known Member
I have no experience with using WD-40 to clean track, but anytime I use it for other purposes, it thorough careful cleaning to remove the residue.

As for No-Ox, I've found it works really well if applied as recommended. No-Ox is not a cleaner, however. The purpose of No-Ox is to prevent corrosion. The amount required is very small -- about 1/4 teaspoon for 500 feet of track. Basically, you apply a tiny amount No-Ox to track that is already clean, wait 24-48 hours for the chemical reaction to occur, then wipe off all of the No-Ox. Here are detailed instructions:

http://www.nscale.net/forums/content.php?32-Track-cleaning-Linn-Westcott-and-No-Ox

- Jeff
 

Iron Horseman

Well-Known Member
I have since stopped using WD-40 to clean locomotive wheels and now wonder if the WD-40 didn't leave some form of residue on the wheels that affected electrical pickup.

Has anyone else found this to be a problem if they use WD-40 as a wheel cleaner?
Yes, WD-40 is well known for leaving residue that eventually attracts dust. No water displacement formulas (WD, Amzoil MP, etc) can be recommended for cleaning or lubrication. They displace water to help prevent rust and that is about it. The "lubrication" qualities is a side effect rather than the purpose of the products.
 

trailrider

Well-Known Member
Alcohol is probably the best, but I have also used Wahl clipper oil. Just don't use too much. As a matter of fact it might be a good idea to clean with alcohol, followed by Wahl's and then by another application of alcohol.
 

Rico

BN Modeller
I posted this back a while ago, don't know how to link to it tho.
It might help here...

Polar solvents (less ideal for cleaning electronic contacts):
* Isopropyl alcohol
* Ethyl alcohol
* MEK
* Acetone
* Ammonia
* Water
Semi-polar solvent (better than polar solvents)
* Ethyl acetate
Non-polar solvents (best for cleaning electronic contacts)
* Kerosene
* Turpentine
* Mineral spirits
* Toulene
I had heard from the La Mesa club folks that they have stopped using ISO alcohol to clean track because the track gets dirty faster. Apparently, the polar solvents leave a residue that encourages micro-arching, which is what creates the metal oxides on the track and wheels we call "black gunk".
It appears non-polar solvents inhibit micro-arcing. I find it interesting that the clipper oil discussion that started a few decades ago as a way to inhibit black gunk buildup is a NON-POLAR substance. Mineral spirits, for example, is similar to clipper oil and is non-polar. Mineral spirits makes a great track and wheel cleaner. (By the way, Neverstall is non-polar as well.)
Wow, you learn something every day. I knew anecdotally that some substances worked better than others for track cleaning -- now I have a true scientific explanation as to why!
 

Greg@mnrr

Section Hand
Has anyone used ACT 6006 track cleaner by Aero Lube? How did it perform for you to clean your track and did the track stay clean after using the product?

Thanks.

Greg
 

Iron Horseman

Well-Known Member
Has anyone used ACT 6006 track cleaner by Aero Lube? How did it perform for you to clean your track and did the track stay clean after using the product?
That is what I use when I say "electrically conductive lubricant". I guess I don't really use it to clean the track. I clean with alcohol and then apply the ACT very thinly. My belief is it works to make the final contact between wheel and track more electrically conducive and prevents arching.

I don't know how much it keeps the track "staying clean", but I have not noticed it becoming a dust magnet like WD-40 does.
 
N

NP2626

Guest
I use Goo Gone to clean my wheels. Place a few drops over each rail on a shop towel, run the loco onto the shop towel and hold it in that position while running the locomotive for 10-15 seconds, than do the same with the other end's wheels and your done. This works very well.
 

beiland

Well-Known Member
When I first began reading this subject thread I was going to ask, what is IA?. I think I know now

I've used the Goo Gone, and thought it worked rather well.,...citrus based cleaner,correct?

One question I would have for anyone experimenting with track cleaners is, are ALL of their cars equipped with metal wheels,...absolutely NO plastic wheels at all?

I feel that a lot of the gunk that gets on the rails comes from plastic wheels, and maybe even more so when various solvents are being spread onto the tracks that our trains are then running thru.
 
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iggy809

Member
I have purchased Locomotives and electronic items online to find a green corrosion on contacts and connections. Some are tiny springs and tiny connectors. Will something remove and or clean this up?
 
N

NP2626

Guest
I have replaced all plastic wheels with metal ones. Previous to doing this, I would occasionally have derailing problems and couldn't figure out what was going on, until I looked at the plastic wheels on the car and found that crud had built up enough on the wheel that the flanges where unable to keep the car on the track any longer. Since replacing with metal wheels, this no longer happens.

When I first began reading this subject thread I was going to ask, what is IA?. I think I know now

I've used the Goo Gone, and thought it worked rather well.,...citrus based cleaner,correct?

One question i would have for anyone experimenting with track cleaners is, are ALL of there cars equipped with metal wheels,...absolutely NO plastic wheels at all?

I feel that a lot of the gunk that gets on the rails comes from plastic wheels, and maybe even more so when various solvents are being spread onto the tracks that our trains are then running thru.
 
N

NP2626

Guest
Greg, I don't use any solvents or liquids on my track, only the cars fitted with Masonite or Hard Board sliders, per my construction thread posted here a month or so ago.

Has anyone used ACT 6006 track cleaner by Aero Lube? How did it perform for you to clean your track and did the track stay clean after using the product?

Thanks.

Greg
 

Selector

Well-Known Member
I have replaced all plastic wheels with metal ones. Previous to doing this, I would occasionally have derailing problems and couldn't figure out what was going on, until I looked at the plastic wheels on the car and found that crud had built up enough on the wheel that the flanges where unable to keep the car on the track any longer. Since replacing with metal wheels, this no longer happens.

I used to think that the real culprits for accumulations of the grey gunk were the plastic wheels. I agree, they're the worst of the bunch, but by no means the only surfaces that can get dirty. Almost all of us find black streaks near our points rails or our frogs. That's from arcing. The arcing is many thousands of degrees in temperature, even if in a teensy space. That temperature carbonizes and makes tar out of any organics near it. Hence, the black.

I have only every half-heartedly cleaned maybe one steam locomotive's wheels, and that was a troublesome Proto 2000 switcher, a 0-6-0. I recently wanted to prove my new double-main on a layout I'm building, and I used my oldest locomotive. It ran poorly, but I made allowances for not having soldered most of the joiners yet, and for not cleaning the rails. However, when I did clean the rails, it still ran intermittently. I spun the drivers under power when I cradled it, inverted, and used alcohol to clean the tire surfaces of the drivers. When I reinstalled the locomotive, it ran flawlessly. The tires actually looked cleaner, too.

When I check other metal-tired rolling stock, I see one wheel that for some reason wants to pick up crud. The material doesn't matter as much as I wished...because if metal were that foolproof, I'd simply not run anything with plastic tires.

Bottom line, our moving thingees need to be maintained. Thankfully, they don't need a lot of it...maybe five minutes per item per year if they get frequent use.
 
N

NP2626

Guest
Crandell, Your problems from my point of view, may be specific to your layout. My metal wheels do not pick up crud. It's my opinion that plastic wheels build up static electricity and become crud magnates. Why my metal wheels don't do this, I am uncertain; but, they seem to stay clean. I also do not see black streaks near my point rails or frogs.

I do agree with you that everything that moves on our railroads need periodic maintenance.
 
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