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Thread: Metal Benchwork

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by GraniteRailroader
    1/2" furniture grade plywood will be total overkill and unnecessary weight. 3/8th plywood will be just fine.

    I've experienced 3/8" plywood on the Atlas 'central midland' layout I once had....
    http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/31007

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian
    ...and the 3/8" subroadbed plywood was all warped. I figured on having the layout for maybe 6 months as a learning exercise.

    First off I managed to get a lot of the warpage out of the subroadbed by gluing Heckengers wood paint stirring strips on their edge to stabilize and straighten out the plywood.
    I have said 'furniture grade plywood' as I am hoping to get plywood with less voids, multiply layers, and good glue, & at least one good flat side finish. I'd be willing to pay a little extra for these qualities. And with these qualities I would hope that 1/2" stuff would less prone to warpage when backed up by square tubes of alum bracing every 24" span, and out to their tips.

    Quote Originally Posted by GraniteRailroader
    A simple 1x3 frame, with the plywood dado'd into the frame boards would suffice and be sufficiently strong.

    I'm looking to avoid that relatively 'thick framing' by considering the metal framing that I have acquired.

  2. #12
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    Let me restate this. I like this nice clean looking frame work on this example,
    Click image for larger version. 

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    and particularly the lack of bulky frame work of this more conventional construction.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I simply want to substitute my stiff, relatively thin metal tubes for the wood beams they utilized,.....and that is the case whether I utilize plywood OR foam for the roadbed .

    In fact I am leaning towards plywood shelf/decks on the lower level, and foam on the upper level.
    Last edited by beiland; 10-12-2017 at 10:05 AM.

  3. Default

    1/2" plywood should present no problems at all. Those angled metal brackets will work just fine. As I posted on your other thread a while back, I would still put 1" x 4" or maybe even just 1" x 2" along both the front and rear of the plywood. The rear ones don't have to be continuous and can break at the brackets. I would attach them to the walls and they don't have to go into studs if the walls are plywood which I think that you have posted somewhere. Weight is not any concern here at all; you could probably use 3/8" as GraniteRailroader posted if you use the stiffeners. I personally would use the 1/2" even though it may be overkill as far as the weight that needs to be supported. I am making additional comments on your other thread as they don't apply to this subject of metal benchwork.

    Willie

  4. #14

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    I have used those brackets for some other projects around the house and garage and have had two different kind of failures with them, but innocent human error was the cause. Once you get some weight on them, make sure you don't bump or push anything against the angled support leg. I bumped one out in the garage once and the flat diagonal support folded and the shelf and contents hit the floor. The other failure was from standing up under a different shelf and hitting it with my shoulder. When that happened, the fabulous spot weld on the diagonal popped loose and allowed the little inset square to come out of the wall portion. Needless to say, that hit the floor too. As model railroaders, we are under our layouts often and also store things under our layouts so both scenarios are very possible. Just a heads up.
    Rick

  5. #15
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    VERY interesting Rick.
    Quote Originally Posted by Rick
    I bumped one out in the garage once and the flat diagonal support folded and the shelf and contents hit the floor.
    By the word 'folded' what did you mean exactly? Did the welds come loose, .....or the diagonal bent thus allowing the bracket to fail??
    How big of a 'bump' was it,....with a vehicle or your body??

    Was that bracket only one of 2, ....one at the end of the shelf, or in the middle of a shelf with multiple others?

    I wonder if one should add a little extra 'adhesive' of sorts to those spot-weld spots.
    Last edited by beiland; 10-13-2017 at 05:04 AM.

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    Use steel brackets instead of aluminum and the "folding" problem goes away. My only experience is with older ones, so something made recently may not be as well made.

    Willie

  7. #17
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    The brackets I have are steel ones. I'm not sure if Rick indicated what material hiswere, but I will bet they were likele steel, as I have not seen many (any?) alum ones.

    I thought Rick's posting was an interesting one, as I intend to add additional 'extension arms' onto those brackets,....thus more leverage arm with which to distort or break those wall brackets. On the other hand it emphases the need to firmly attach those bracket/arms to the overhead roadbed, thus resistance to sideway movements of the individual support arm/bracket.

  8. #18
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    I have to admit being cagy about the light pressed metal brackets. Not only do they not usually have holes large enough for decent size screws to pass through, their construction if with no diagonal brace, is very weak at the bend. Even with the brace, the ones usually in hardware stores are suspect in the thickness of material used and in the welding. Heavier angle iron ones are of course more expensive.
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  9. #19
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    They claim quite a BIG capacity for those steel Everbilt ones I bought
    http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-...4835/202824731
    Last edited by beiland; 10-13-2017 at 09:27 AM.

  10. #20
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    Default Lower Deck/Shelf of my Layout, and Staging Tracks

    I've added my latest thoughts and photos of supports for my lower deck over here,...
    http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/f...394#post459394

    ...and for the staging tracks i want to incorporate,...
    http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/f...395#post459395

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