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Thread: How to make a Control Panel?

  1. #51
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Caboolture in SE Queensland, Australia


    I forgot about being Celsius here, and I booboo'd, the dial on mine say's x10, so 350C and topping out at 450c, so 350C=662F. 400C=752F and 450C=842F. near enough the same range then. For a minute I thought it was some sort of laser you had there. Maybe could be installed in satellites to deal with NK.

    I'm lost. I've gone to look for me. If I should return before I get back, please ask me to wait.

  2. #52



    My fault I guess, normally I convert Fahrenheit to Celsius for people or visa versa. Whether it be F or C ... it's hot Damned HOT!

    (aka wombat457)

    "...knowing what to do is one thing, being able to do it is another..."

  3. #53


    Quote Originally Posted by wombat457 View Post
    All I have to do now is figure out how to "clean up" the wiring mess.
    Order a batch of 'heat shrink'. It comes in a variety of sizes. Its standard feature is that it shrinks 50%around the diameter and almost nothing along the length, so 1/8" diameter heat shrink will reduce to 1/16". Buy the sizes that will just slip over the parts you want to protect - resistors, switch terminals, etc. Cut a piece 1/2" to 3/4" long and slip it over the resistor before you solder the resistor to the LED lead. After the components are soldered together, slide the heat shrink over the joint and apply heat (heat gun, hair dryer, lighter, etc.).

    Quote Originally Posted by wombat457 View Post
    A guy on another forum suggested I use these things:
    Not what you want to use. The photo is only one half of the terminal strip. The other half is mounted to a PC (printed circuit) board. You want these:

    Quote Originally Posted by wombat457 View Post
    One other thing, I bit the bullet this afternoon and ordered one these things:
    Excellent choice.

    PS1: If you didn't catch it, the quote in my previous post was Swahili

    PS2: Don't buy the terminal strips. PM me your address and I'll send you a bunch.

    Edit: Well, that didn't work the way I expected it to!
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    General Manager
    Red Oak and Western Railway Company

  4. #54



    I like the idea of using heat shrink and after that, the tubing that has a slit along it's length that can be wrapped around wiring to form a single "loom". I'll certainly look into it.

    Before I forget, I didn't realise that company you suggested for the 3mm bevels was in Thailand until I got the order confirmation email. My immediate thought was geez it'll take weeks for them to arrive. All I can say is this mob is brilliant and "on the ball". Ordered the parts, an hour later got another email telling me they're going to be shipped and another yesterday telling me they will arrive this Tuesday! There are some companies here, that are only a 5 hour drive away, that can't even process an order in that time let alone ship it and have it delivered. Very impressed and thanks for the link to them.

    Thanks for the heads up on those green connectors too. Last thing I need is to add more stuff that I have no idea about - I have enough grey hairs as it is.

    As for the Hakko, everyone I asked (including here) pointed me in the direction of Hakko and particularly this system. I don't think I have read a bad review about them either so hopefully it will live up to it's reputation. Either way, it will be better than my little Weller that does, as Toot'n said, get very very hot if left unused for a few minutes.

    I am a huge supporter of using terminal boards, of any type. I have a 10 Post board and a 24 Post bard (which I will use for the turnouts/control panel) but will need more for other things such as structure lighting down the track. As such, I just might take you up on your very generous offer.

    PS: I think I am slowly (very slowly) learning Swahili

    (aka wombat457)

    "...knowing what to do is one thing, being able to do it is another..."

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