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Thread: Kato HO SD80MAC Loksound install anyone?

  1. #1
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    Default Kato HO SD80MAC Loksound install anyone?

    I'm embarking on the title's install, have the shell and walkway off and a dedoder with 8 pin plug for it. Not too many handy places to put speaker/s though. (DCC ready model). Just replaced the OEM speakers on 2 Athearn SD40's with the Athearn spec Tsunamis with iPhone4s speakers and enclosures. Got rid of the horrible scratchy, tinny sound the stock ones have. At least the Kato doesn't have all those dangly wires Athearn uses.
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  2. #2

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    I'm sure it'll sound great

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by tootnkumin View Post
    I'm embarking on the title's install, have the shell and walkway off and a dedoder with 8 pin plug for it. Not too many handy places to put speaker/s though. (DCC ready model). Just replaced the OEM speakers on 2 Athearn SD40's with the Athearn spec Tsunamis with iPhone4s speakers and enclosures. Got rid of the horrible scratchy, tinny sound the stock ones have. At least the Kato doesn't have all those dangly wires Athearn uses.
    How many iPhone speakers are you using? I've been debating just 2, a full 4, or 6.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iron Horseman View Post
    How many iPhone speakers are you using? I've been debating just 2, a full 4, or 6.
    For the SD40's I got this one with the aerial, which is held to the casing by 2 very tiny screws and sticky tape, easily removed and doesn't affect the speaker otherwise. 51 x 15 x 5mm. Sound port is on the side of the round end. has a gasket that requires removal to gain a gap to let the sound out. Sat it on top of the old speakers housing without modification.


    I found a Y-tube review by a German fellow for the SD80MAC where he used a single Zimo cube right at the rear. Had very good sound. The main problem with the Kato is that there are only 2 LED's serving all the lights via plastic "tubes" and they take up what other space is available, will post some pics later.
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  5. #5
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    Oh, that doesn't look anything like the iphone speakers I have. The ones I have (I bought a gross of them) are much thinner and more rectangular.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iron Horseman View Post
    Oh, that doesn't look anything like the iphone speakers I have. The ones I have (I bought a gross of them) are much thinner and more rectangular.
    The reason I used them was I found a YT vid from someone who had actually used them in those late release SD40's. Didn't show a how to, but the sound is far and away better than the originals. I guessed if he could get them in, I should too. The speakers, with subwoofer, I've got attached to my computer are pretty good, and gave a good representation. These iP ones sound even better with the shell on. The wiring contacts are seperated which made the soldering of wires to them much easier than the HTC one 8/with enclosure, which has coated traces.

    Like you, I also have a pile of other ones without enclosures I've yet to experiment with, the aforementioned HTC and the iP4s. The latter are very tiny, rectangular ones, unlike the round ones used in the SD40's. (can just make out the shape through the port in the side). It's a bit of a puzzle as to why they have these long enclosures. I cut open one of the HTC one 8 to to find exactly the same speaker as the loose ones (they have an exposed speaker face) to find most of the cavity filled with sponge, so what the purpose of it's overall size is, no idea.
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  7. #7
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    Pics of the SD80MAC opened. The only instructions that came with the loco said to remove the couplers. That's only needed if you want to remove the walkway as well as the topshell, they are seperate pieces. The shell does need to be removed first any way, so leave the couplers in place while removing it. You will need to remove the white handrails on the cab nose first too.
    The shell is held to the walkway and the chassis under the walkway by 3 clips and a locater tab in the center (not a clip). A pair of small clips at the front, accessible from beneath the walkway, just in front of the truck. These you press backwards and up through their small square hole, to raise the cab front off the walkway. Do one, then the other, placing a packer into the gap to prevent them re-engaging.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    In the left pic you can make out the peg on each side just near the front of the cab. On the right are the 2 rectangular holes in the walkway they clip through. Sorry I took these after removal, but they're easy to find.

    Won't let me add more pics to this post via the insert image option for some reason, so will post this and hopefully be able to do so in the next.
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  8. #8
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    Positions of the 2 pairs of clips that hold the shell on, these pass down through the walkway and clip onto the chassis. Press inwards on the sides of the shell next to them and wriggle to lift and seperate. I struggled with these I think by pressing to hard and jamming them against the back edge of the holes. I noticed after I got the shell off that there were protrusions on the chassis, restricting how far the clips could be pressed inwards. It would seem the purpose is to prevent easy disengagement of the shell when lifting the loco by hand. You may need a flat, square tipped blade to insert between walkway and the shell's bottom edge to ease the clips up through those holes. Note the center locating tab. It doesn't clip.
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    I also found the reason for not getting the insert image to work. Have to click the "From computer" tab to reactivate that function

    Click image for larger version. 

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    This is the view to the back and the front of the inside of the shell showing the plastic light tubes coming inwards towards the LEDS on the circuit board.
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  9. #9
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    There is another light tube mounted at the front of the walkway that takes light from the single front LED (works both H/light and Ditch lights. Non flashing in this DC version) and passes up through the gap in the front weight to get there.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    That tube/s is supported in grooves in the front of the chassis you can just see at bottom left. The wires from the pick-ups travel across the tops of the weights and are clipped to the board near it's middle. The board is on a plastic mount, clipped over the top of the motor. Has only an 8 pin socket.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  10. #10
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    With those light tubes taking up spaces where it might have been possible to mount a sound board except directly on top of the DC board, right at the back for a speaker, looks like the most logical space for it. I guess I could dismantle the Kobo Shops version I have to see how they did it, they would at least have done away with the DC board. This one was easier to handle as it is without the detail parts installed.
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