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Thread: My Big Shed layout

  1. #61

    Default

    Hopefully one of the manufacturers might be watching and may want some trials done?

    If so PM me

    cmaceeepc

  2. #62

    Default foam?

    I am trying some black neoprene, Ihad it lying around and thought why not.
    I have cut into strips 25mm wide, approx 900mm long - 3mm thick
    pushed the track pins up from underneath, which has allowed me to slide the foam underneath the track.
    Where the foam meets a track pin or power dropper, I have cut through the strip to half way and when fitted bearly noticable.

    I have trialed this on the topdeck - and on initial running probably quitened it by 1/3 to 1/2 of what it was before

    I will take some photoes tonight and let you see the result


    cmaceeepc

  3. #63

    Default foam trial photoes

    Here are some photoes of my trial with neoprene foam (wetsuit type)


    and to show perspective



    And even running trains again it has quitened significantly

    I will try to find some styrene to fit under the topdeck to see if it assists in quitenening things down


    cmaceeepc
    Craig

  4. #64

    Default

    Seems like a lot of cutting. How about curves??

  5. #65

    Default

    Videobruce

    The cutting is low but I found it better to cut with large scissors (the bosss's dress making scissors)(I hope I can do enough before she misses them). Hobby type knives actualy grab the foam and makes a ragged edge.
    laying on the curves was real easy, it flexed enough without puckering, still giving a smooth surface.
    I have 1 set of points on the top deckat the moment and simply trace the shape, cut section below throw bar - to allow actuation

    Ultimately when/If i roadbed all the layout I will buy suitable product.

    Time will tell


    cmaceeepc
    Craig

  6. #66

    Default

    Hobby type knives actually grab the foam and makes a ragged edge.
    I have and use a long blade Exacto knife for rigid foamboard. When it starts to get dull, it will 'tear' the foam, but when it is sharp it does not.

  7. #67

    Default

    Neoprene type foam is a lot softer/flexable than the blue foam type

    Noeprene flex's and stretches a lot more - this being the advantage on curves.

    "Neoprene or polychloroprene is a synthetic rubber that has physical properties closely resembling those of Natural Rubber.Has better weathering resistance than Natural Rubber and moderate resistanceto oil, heat and ozone fluids."

    "Dow Styrofoam extruded polystyrene (XPS) blue foam has been used with great success as a modelling foam for many years. Strong, lightweight and versatile - Dow Styrofoam XPS has been used for everything from competition grade surfboards to remote control vehicles, outdoor water features to model railway dioramas, architectural models and even triathlon racing bike frames."

    The virtues of both are related to the final use of the modeler, one is great for one purpose but totaly wrong for the other


    cmaceeepc
    Craig

  8. #68

    Default

    I've been lurking in this thread for a while and only just realised you're in Melbourne too. Whereabouts? I'm NE suburbs.

    I think the neoprene you're using would be fine and probably not any different to the blue/pink foam of a similar thickness. If you do find a place where it buckles on a curve, you could always cut some triangular slits along the inside edge so that it can bend easier (like the Woodland Scenics risers).
    Pete - Click here for my Youtube channel

    Modelling the Burlington Northern RR from inception to the early '80s

  9. #69

    Default

    TrinityJayone

    I have cut slits to get around the track pins - yes on tight curves you would have to cut wedges to get the required radius - My curves should be Ok based on the test on the upperdeck

    SE suburbs


    cmaceeepc
    Craig

  10. #70

    Default Update

    Progress appears slow but when I stood back and reviewed what I have done this weekend I was surprised.
    I have fitted all the inner barrier to helix 2, fitted actuators to 10 sets of points (brass tube and piano wire), a bit of painting to the bottom deck (to help keep it clean)(the bare pine seems to attract everything).
    When fitting the actuators, I soldered 2 brass washers to the tube which allowed me to screw the tubes to the underside of the deck - wish i had thought of that when I did the 35 points on my old layout.
    Even got out and took some photoes for the backdrop.

    When doing some test runs with my trains I became frustrated that the couplings were disconnecting and after some low level inspection found they are at different heights - Any Ideas guys - These are the first ones with the MT type - all my old stock is rapido (waiting for gear to convert)

    Anyway back to the grind


    cmaceeepc
    Craig

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