Wombats N Scale Structure Builds

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wombat457

Well-Known Member
Staff member
#61
Thanks for the kind words, all are appreciated.

Lynn:

What I think I am going to do is buy a "sheet" of N Scale Brick and use it to try various things. I have to admit that I am apprehensive about doing it to a structure in case it doesn't work out properly and I ruin it. I will try what you suggest and I will use "my thumb wife" to rub the the excess of; although, I don't think she'll like it :)

Jeff:

It is nice to have the "real thing" to be able to reference - wish I had have thought about that years ago. Funny how what is right under your nose some times gets over looked :(

Your absolutely right about the air brushing, it would make it look too uniform I think. I did a bit more by hand last night and am starting to wonder about the paint. For some reason it doesn't want to stick to the walls in spots. I don't know if it is the paint or if it is the primer causing the problem (Model Master) or if it is "oil" on the walls.

Edsland:

Thank you and working with N Scale is a challenge compared to HO scale. I do use a magnifier to work with it be it painting or putting the kits together. This isn't going to make any sense what so ever but when it comes to the painting, I am finding it a little easier. Don't ask me why, perhaps I am just getting better at it.

Willie:

Have tried doing mortar that way and I could never get it to work properly. I was probably using too much paint because theoretically that process should work.

flyboy:

Thanks as well and yeah, I think it is turning pretty well.
 

Lynnb

Active Member
#62
Tony my memory really sucks but I think on one of my wall experiments I painted the walls a brick color just with a rattle can primer and then after dried I simply scraped chalks over the entire wall and with a stiffer brush pushed in into the mortar cracks and afterward wiped it off with my wifes thumb going in one direction. Now here's another idea , lately I have been using Rembrant chalks ( sparingly ) , they are very strong, then I will use A/I or just clear alcohol depending on the look, and using a soft brush dipping into the alcohol then just letting the alcohol flow. When the alcohol evaporates it should solidify the chalks in the cracks. If you use plain chalks they should be removeable if you don't like the results. Don't worry about messing up the walls , walls get old and experimenting will just add character.
 

wombat457

Well-Known Member
Staff member
#64
Lynn,

Thanks for the article but to be honest with you and everyone else - if the pictures are how it turns out I don't want it. To me it looks way too heavy and unrealistic. Looking at the end result reminds me of how my attempts turned out, actually, my attempts weren't that heavy and I didn't like them either.

Thanks for all your advice but I'm not going to do mortar and risk messing up the walls.
 

Lynnb

Active Member
#65
no prob Tony. The article and all techniques are just a basis to work with and the finish will be up to the builder with what you want to do with the roughing.
 

wombat457

Well-Known Member
Staff member
#68
A little more done to the Transfer Station:





Haven't applied any washes yet, that will come. Three days to mask it up, 60 seconds to paint it, 30 seconds to remove the masking tape ... gotta luv precision huh :)

Next thing is to do the doors and windows, they'll be the same antique white or something similar.

Has anyone used these things:

http://www.ngineering.com/n_lighting_kits.htm

Was thinking about buying a pack of 8 for the this transfer station but don't know how hard they are to "assemble" or how good they are. If I get them, I think I'd go with the incandescent variety. Any thoughts or opinions?
 
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wombat457

Well-Known Member
Staff member
#70
Looking good , I like the colors. I can't say much about liting, I always thought of
you as being the lite guru.
Lynn,

Thanks mate appreciate the kind words; although, I'd hardly call myself a light guru. Setting up lights, be they buildings or street lights, isn't hard when you have the lights to install, I've never had to physically "make the lights" before though and that is what those lights (in the link) are - a kit. You get the parts and you make em :)

I took at the instructions for the assembly and it looks like a lot of work, some being very frustrating like having to thread #35 wires through very narrow bent tubing for one thing. I have enough trouble getting my feeder wires through the sub road bed.

What I'm thinking of doing now is drilling two small holes in the walls and poking the LED legs through them. Bending the LED downwards and hiding it all the verandah that is yet to be attached. With any luck, you wont see the LED. The other option is the same method but using a "Grain of Wheat" LED; although I think they may be too directional.
 

wombat457

Well-Known Member
Staff member
#71
A little more done, the dock landing in place and a little weathering using indian ink:



Just mocked up the track and train for appearances only and to give an idea of the size of the station. The enging is a Kato GEO AC4400ES if that helps.
 



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