What do you use to uncouple cars during ops sessions.


PrairieKnight

PrairieKnight

Active Member
I am wondering what everyone uses to uncouple rolling stock during ops sessions. Non-magnetic of course. This would be on #5 Kadee couplers. I have a mix of plastic and metal couplers as I convert all of my rolling stock to body mount metal centerset shank couplers from the plastic whisker couplers. I have seen videos of cars being separated in one very smooth/quick motion by using what appears to be a wooden dowel of some sort. I have tried various things like plastic and wooden coffee stirs from various places, wooden skewers, and Popsicle sticks that I trimmed on the ends with a knife. But I can never get it to a smooth/quick motion. I am usually playing with it to the point of where I give up and lift one truck off the track.... definitely not smooth at all.

I sure would appreciate any suggestions...a picture of the business end of what you use would be greatly appreciated. Maybe it just takes alot of practice with whatever you use to get it to a smooth/quick motion.
 
A wooden pencil that's been sharpen with a smooth wood point has been used as seen in several videos.

I use the uncoupler sold by RIX Products.

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Greg
 
I use wooden kabob skewers. Works really well and they are great length wise for spotting cars underneath a covered loading chute like my mine loadout.

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WHen I build my layout, I planned it as a switching layout. I carefully placed the uncoupling magnets where I need them and use the magnets. I usually have no problems, but on occasion I may have a car that doesn't uncouple all of the time. I found that a dry lubricant solves the problem. I have some industries that are at the rear of the layout and quite a reach and really don't like across scenery to manually uncouple cars.
 
I use the old magnetic delay uncouplers to hold things on the fridge now.
Sometimes I'll use a Rix tool. I have about a dozen of them laying around the layout but dang if they are never within reach of where I need them.
I also have several of the plastic pencil type sticks layout around too, but once again, they tend to crawl away from where they are needed.
Last resort, I just lift one of the cars to separate the coupler. Yeah, yeah I know, that's cheating, but if you had to work over a hundred uncouplings in a short time, you would do that too.

Oh yes you would.
 
D&J RailRoad said:
I use the old magnetic delay uncouplers to hold things on the fridge now.
Sometimes I'll use a Rix tool. I have about a dozen of them laying around the layout but dang if they are never within reach of where I need them.
I also have several of the plastic pencil type sticks layout around too, but once again, they tend to crawl away from where they are needed.
Last resort, I just lift one of the cars to separate the coupler. Yeah, yeah I know, that's cheating, but if you had to work over a hundred uncouplings in a short time, you would do that too.

Oh yes you would.
Click to expand...
Yes I would and yes I have.

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I am lucky enough to operate on two private layouts and my own. I use bamboo skewers on my own layout with Kadee couplers. On the private OPS one layout uses the bamboo skewers. The other private layout is equipped with Kadee magnets an that is all that is allowed. The correct etiquette for layouts other than yours is to use what is expected by the owner. I can tell you that the Kadee magnet equipped layout improves your coupling and uncoupling skills.
Wayne
 
I did use the Kadee Magnets and didn't like how they worked; so, switched to the skewers. However, This is a personal choice; one method is not set in concrete and you should use what ever in the heck you want!
 
I actually use four methods. I have the Kadee magnets on back spurs where reaching, while possible might upset scenery. I mostly use the Rix uncoupler but I am still trying to get the hang of the skewers as well. When all else fails, the HOG (Hand of God) comes into play.

Willie
 
Come to think of it I am still using magnets where I can't reach, too!
 
I had a recurring problem where some cars just wouldn't couple to the cab end on my F-7 "A" units, because the coupler draw bars were being pushed aside by the F7's pilot. So I wound up chopping off the drawbars. That means the under-track type of uncoupling magnets are not an option for me.

I've been using kabob skewers, but what I'd really like to find are the miniature skewers [not sure what they are designed to be used for?] because they seem to work instantly without the need to "fiddle" like I sometimes have to do with the larger ones.

I've learned from past experience to avoid placing uncoupling spots in hard-to-reach locations on my layout.
 
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When installing the track on my layout I installed KD under track uncoupling magnets. In several locations, I used KD's above track uncoupling magnets.

I use "Wild Flowers" from Walther's to mark the centers of the hidden uncouplers.

Each piece of the rolling stock on the layout had its couplers checked for height and operation. As new or rolling check comes out out of storage they are inspected as well. It is important that the couplers on the rolling stock is in perfect operation order to allow the uncoupling magnets to operate properly.

In addition, RIX uncoupling tools are stored in the plastic holsters that hold my Digitrax throttles. This keeps the tools handy.

Thanks.

Greg
 
I appreciate all of the advice and suggestions. After trying numerous different things for uncoupling, I am finding that wooden skewers are the best for me. I am still playing with putting super glue on the end of the skewer to give it some grab when separating the knuckles. One thing that I learned in all of this is....SLACK.....that is the trick for me. Having slack in the couplers is what I am finding to be essential for uncoupling.

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