Stripping/Repainting Engines & Front Range Quality?


I'm only asking because I got a little ahead of myself today, I meant to strip the shell BEFORE I glued......



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The alcohol may have a bigger effect on the glue than the plastic. What kind of adhesive did you use? If it was CA, it probably won't be a problem, even for the thinner Cannon parts. If it was Testors type plastic model glue, you have a problem. The alcohol will weaken the joints considerably. Since it's basically a black engine, which would make a decent primer for another color, you can try just getting rid of the logos with the alcohol and some cottons swabs.
 
Thanks Jim,
I decided to risk it last night, before you posted:D

I used Testors tube glue, not the brush on type. After 2 hours, all was well. The problem being it ws painted with Testors modelmaster spray, so it's taking some more time. I've had it in most of the day today, checking the cab for signs of weakness, but it's as firm as it was yesterday. The spray paint is holding out in those latches and radiator grilles though.

I'm so glad I now have an airbrush :)
 
Dave, It sounds good so far. The tube glue was probably applied a little heavier than the brush on type but alcohol will still cause the joint to weaken. It may not be enough to be a problem but I'd run a thin bead of CA over the inside joints before I painted as insurance.

The only answer for those latches and other crevices is an old toothbrush and some scrubbing. Most of it will come off and, if there's a little left, it really won't affect the overall look of the paint job. As you have seen, strippping a factory or airbrushed model is a lot easier than one that was done with a rattlecan. :)
 
The cab joints did weaken, so I'll follow your CA advice. I'm awaiting snow shields, anticlimber, plow, and steps before I can paint.

I'm doing a side by side comparison, I have a blue box GP50 decorated for MoPac, then Testor spraypainted black and lettered for NS. This one went for the pine-Sol bath, and after 4 hours, I'm starting to see MoPac blue!

For my application, the 91% iso alc worked a lot better!
 
Bumping an old thread....I just bought a 1 gallon bottle of 99%, yes, 99% Isopropal and dropped a spectrum dash 8 shell in warbonnet silver/red in it. It didnt take more then about 3 mins for the decals to litterally fall off and now it has only been in for an hour and I already have half the paint toothbrushed off. Will this strong of stripper damage or weaken the shell?? I was thinking of leaving it in for 6-8 hrs n then the paint would almost fall off like the factory decals....
 
I've never used alcohol as a way to strip equipment. I bought stripper a while back at the hobby shop but can't remember the name. My advice tho would be to scrub the shell and not risk letting it sit too long. I've always scrubbed my shells after letting em sit for a few hours. I hope this helps and makes some sense


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