track conductivity
- Thread starter jdkasben
- Start date
Whatever you do, don't us something like JB Weld. You'll not get better electrical conductivity but you'll have track you'll never be able to get apart again without destroying it.
Even though it's not the preferred method, there's no law that says you have to solder every rail joiner. As long as the joiners are on straight sections of track and the track is clean at the ends, sliding the connector on the track so there's equal overlap on each section and then crimping with a small needlenose plies will usually give good conductivity for many years. I would solder connectors on curved flex track and at switches because these joints are subject to the most mechanical stress and failure of the rail joiner to make a good connection is the highest at these points.
Even though it's not the preferred method, there's no law that says you have to solder every rail joiner. As long as the joiners are on straight sections of track and the track is clean at the ends, sliding the connector on the track so there's equal overlap on each section and then crimping with a small needlenose plies will usually give good conductivity for many years. I would solder connectors on curved flex track and at switches because these joints are subject to the most mechanical stress and failure of the rail joiner to make a good connection is the highest at these points.
pcarrell
Just a guy
I'd recommend soldering those joints. It doesn't take long if you set up an assembly line. Plus, you don't really want to solder "every" joint. You need to leave a few, say every 6-8 feet of track, with a slight gap in the rails (about as thick as an NMRA guage) and an unsoldered joint to allow for expantion and contraction of the rails due to heat and cold variences. Just solder a jumper wire across that joint so electrical connection is maintained.
Remember, the #1 problem in N scale when it comes to reliable running is maintaining electrical connectivity. Dirt on the rails can be a major issue, but larger then that is that the rails have to have electricity going to them, or all the cleaning in the world isn't going to make the train move across the dead track.
Trust me on this one, there's not much in this hobby thats less fun then loco's that refuse to run well.
Good trackwork can go a long ways towards minimizing those problems.
Besides, mixing up all that JB Weld and applying it, even if it did work, would probably take just as long, if not longer, then just soldering it up right.
Just my thoughts.................
Remember, the #1 problem in N scale when it comes to reliable running is maintaining electrical connectivity. Dirt on the rails can be a major issue, but larger then that is that the rails have to have electricity going to them, or all the cleaning in the world isn't going to make the train move across the dead track.
Trust me on this one, there's not much in this hobby thats less fun then loco's that refuse to run well.
Good trackwork can go a long ways towards minimizing those problems.
Besides, mixing up all that JB Weld and applying it, even if it did work, would probably take just as long, if not longer, then just soldering it up right.
Just my thoughts.................
Or do what I did as I began laying track:
For maximum flexibility later as far as blocking and whether to go DCC or DC, I soldered feeder wires to EVERY piece I placed on the layout, and used clear plastic joiners. Now I have the luxury of redesigning the blocks just by changing feeder connections below the layout to other bus feeds. And I have guaranteed full power to every section, regardless of how many feet is from the source.
Tim
For maximum flexibility later as far as blocking and whether to go DCC or DC, I soldered feeder wires to EVERY piece I placed on the layout, and used clear plastic joiners. Now I have the luxury of redesigning the blocks just by changing feeder connections below the layout to other bus feeds. And I have guaranteed full power to every section, regardless of how many feet is from the source.
Tim
Scootermon
New Member
Have yout looked into or tried "No-OX"? It actually puts a micro thin layer of "plated oxide" on the rails/contacts and prevents air and contamination from messing up the conductivity of rail to engine. As it becomes part of the track surface, one would have to do any new trackage added to the layout or re-do any trackwork that was pulled up/layed down.
In the home of the Milw Road but modeling Burlington Northern
