Tortoise and LEDs


4

402drvr

Member
Hi folks,

Another newbie qqestion. I am planning on installing three tortoise switch machines on the layout. What I would like is that when the switches are in the mainline position a green LED on my control panel will illuminate and when the switch is in the turnout position an LED will illuminate red on my control panel. I'm no electrical expert so what kind of leds do I need? What will operate off of DC power as that is what runs to the machine.

Also, I know yo can get model signals for the layout which actually work. Do these also run off DC power and could the just be piggy backed onto my control panel LED connections? allowing my control panel to mirror my layout signals?

Thanks
 
This link should give you everything you need to know. I would write a bunch of stuff, but this article has it all and has been featured in one of the MR magazines.
http://www.moreleds.com/turnoutwiring.pdf

Yes, the various signals that can be purchased use the same LED's you are interested in for your control panel and can be paralleled with your control panel LED's. Most are setup with resistors supplied for 12 VDC operation. Just don't mix LED's with incandescent light bulbs. ;)
 
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Are you running DCC or DC control?
LED's of course are DC as are the torti's
The wiring will be different depending on how you control them.
I just finished wiring DCC using an NCE switch 8. When using those or similar Digitrax controllers you simply put the LED's in series with the motor. When running off of straight DC you have to use a dropping resistor.
 
Thanks for the info. I am running C for now but will be going DCC in the next few months. I believe that for simplicity I will keep the switch machines and any associated lights on DC. SO it loojs like I can wire these LEDs off a power supply and simply use a dropping resistor between my power supply and the LED itself. I am still learning this electrical stuff.

What does a dropping resistor do? Does it basically just drop the voltage from the power supply so you don't blow out the light?
 
A dropping resistor? hmmm.
I guess the closest thing to describe it would be a fire hydrant.
If you wanted a drink of water and opened a hydrant into your face it would probably not be a nice thing. Put some reducers and valves between so the water trickles and it's a more pleasant experience. :D
The droppign resistor restricts electricity so that the little led isn't blown away or damaged.

If you are going to switch to DCC I recommend you wait and use auxiliary controllers to do the job. Nothing like changing any switch from your controller without having to go to a separate panel.
 
So you are saying to wait and wire the switches for DCC? If I have that right that would mean being able to control the switches from my DCC throttle from anywhere instead of having to wander over to a panel. Is that what you mean by an auxiliary controller?

Thanks for all the info. i think I have a clearer idea of where I am going now especially with that pdf file.
 
Yes i personally would wait
The DCC product I just installed is the NCE Switch 8
http://www.ncedcc.com/index.php?pag...&category_id=7&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1
This does up to 8 turnouts. You can even do 2 turnouts from each output for crossovers.
They also have a unit that does up to 2 for 20 bucks.

The nice thing about this type of product is that it takes power directly from the track, so you don't need a separate power source. Each tortoise is driven directly from the unit by a pair of wires.

And yes you can control the switches from any throttle on the system. If you have 3 throttles, any one of them can switch any turnout. I think there is the capability of up to 2000 addresses.
To remember which is which when you set it up, think of a pattern to help you remember. I set mine to address 1 for the center outside track, number 2 is the next going clockwise, 3 the next, 4 is the first on the 2nd track, etc.
I currently have 11 controlled and after just a couple hours of use have no problem remembering the switch addresses instantly.

With the NCE system you select accessory number then 1 for normal/straight and 2 for turn. It even tells you the current position of the switch/accessory.

I love it and wish I did it a long time ago. I can be anywhere on the layout and run a train and do all switching without having to climb under my bridge to access where I used to have the manual switches.
Good Luck
 
402drvr said:
So you are saying to wait and wire the switches for DCC? If I have that right that would mean being able to control the switches from my DCC throttle from anywhere instead of having to wander over to a panel. Is that what you mean by an auxiliary controller?

Thanks for all the info. i think I have a clearer idea of where I am going now especially with that pdf file.
Click to expand...
If all you are looking for is turnout indication, then use the built-in SPST switches of the Tortoise; there are two. You can use them separately or together for a DPDT(double pole-double throw). When the turnout is thrown, the switches will auto turn on your LED(s), SIMPLE! My recommendation is to buy a 12 VDC power supply from Radio Shack and run a 12 volt bus under your layout. Tap-off of this and supply your LEDs, building lights, and whatever you need it for. No fancy stuff needed and it doesn't matter if you are DC or DCC. I supply and control dwarf signals at the TO's using these switches and a 12 volt bus and also use the same bus for all my buildings and accessories.

The main purpose of the resistor is to limit the current to the LED, which in turn, lowers the voltage for the LED. All semi-conductor devices are extremely sensitive to too much current flow tht will burn them out. You will be safe by using the proper resistor size for the supplied voltage value. Note: this is a bit advanced, but you may see different values for different colored LED's using the same voltage. Contrary to what many novice believe, LEDs are not all alike and colors are made from different materials. Usually, the only reason we have in MR to use different resistor values per color, is to have an even amount of light from the from one color to the next. This is usually not that much and seldom a problem unless one is very picky. You will be ok using the value recommended for red. My trackside block signals are connected to Digitrax terminal strips that have 550 ohm resistors built in for each color when using 12vdc.
 
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I think it's a much better idea to put the LED’s near the switches. At one time I had my entire switch LED indicators on my control panel but realized that's not where I’m looking when the trains are running. I’ve had to many head on crashes using the control panel LED method.

NYC_George
 
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Thanks again folks,

i am learning how much there is to learn every time I ask a question. I am starting to lean away from a control panel as DCC is my intention. I woul dlike to run tortoise switch machines for the busy turnouts and for the ones I cannot reach.

So if I go that route it looks like the Hare is a pretty good stationary decoder which controls an individual switch machine. It looks like the NCE Switch-It machine will control up to eight turnouts from the same decoder. Cost wise this looks like a better deal even though it lacks a couple of the Hare features. Any thoughts on either of these machines?
 
The Hare seems to be a good machine, but very expensive when you think of "per turnout expense". I have a Digitrax layout, but use eight of the Lenz LS150 for the stationary decoders. They don't have all the bells and whistles of others but I haven't seen a need for that...even with my automated layout. Each one will control 6 turnouts for $49.95 http://tonystrains.com/products/type_stadecs_1.htm There are several types of stationary decoders and it will mostly depend on what you want them to do. The Lenz is on this page about half way down.
 
402drvr said:
So you are saying to wait and wire the switches for DCC? If I have that right that would mean being able to control the switches from my DCC throttle from anywhere instead of having to wander over to a panel.
Click to expand...
Why not put the control for the turnout next to where you will be when you want to actuate it? I know some people seem to like flipping through a stack on a throttle or calling up numbers instead of running trains with it. Personally I can't stand to have two loco's on one throttle, let alone a bunch of turnouts.
 
yeah I'm going back and forth here. There is a good argument for switches at the location if you are walking around. I guess it matters really what you are looking for.

For now it will be DC with switches on panels at appropriate locations and LEDs so I can see where a switch is without being near the switch. I just want a way to remember which way a switch is thrown so I don't crash a train. Eventually, as I can afford it upgrades like realistic signals and maybe DCC turnouts will be added. For now a couple DPDT switches and LEDs at Radio Shack are pretty cheap.

It also seems my DCC system of choice is not able to control turnouts. That would be the MRC Express system. i am not sure about NCE and wether the power cab system can control stationary decoders or not.

Thanks for the info folks.
 
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