The Union Pacific Soggy Bottoms Subdivision (HO scale)


Well, I soiled the other side of the bluffs. (That didn't sound right, somehow. :confused: )
I also turfed it and planted some grass. Then I soaked it in dilute matte medium. Now comes the hard part: waiting for it to dry! :(
I'll plant trees and shrubs and whatever else after it's on the layout.
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I just realized I may have inadvertently built myself a duck under. With all this stuff on it, I may not want to be lifting it on and off the layout all the time.
Hmmmm...... Something to think about.
 
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I bought some 1/8" plastic tubing to create a conduit for the turnout throw wire for the right rear turnout of the double crossover. This particular turnout will have to be thrown from the front of the crossover because there is no room at the rear for the ground throw. This has been a concern to me, not because the wire would not throw the turnout. It does throw the turnout and works quite well. What concerned me was that the wire has to pass under the front track, and when (IF!) I get to the ballasting stage I would have to leave that section un-ballasted. I would prefer not to do that, but I don't want to impede the operation of the ground throw.
Yesterday, on YouTube, I saw a video where a guy used a piece of plastic tubing under the track to guide and protect the wire, so that's what I did. I cut a groove into the foam roadbed and laid a section of tubing in it. I glued the tubing in with Titebond glue. The end of the tubing nearest the turnout needs to have just a little bit of movement in it as the wire is not perfectly straight. There are two turnouts in line with each other on each end of the crossover, so the wire has to make a slight bend to get to the ground throw. When I ballast the track that will help hold the tubing in place even better. I used plastic tubing instead of brass because the tubing has to curve to follow the wire.
I think it turned out pretty well. I'll take a black marker and color the tube after the glue has dried. That should hide it fairly well until I get everything ballasted.

The tubing under the track.
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The other side of the double crossover has plenty of room for a ground throw at each turnout.
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I also corrected a silly wiring mistake I had made when hooking up the NCE Powercab to the main bus. For the wires from the cab to the bus, I used 18 gauge wire. Now, mind you, the main bus is 14 gauge wire. This is like hooking up a garden hose to a fire hydrant! Why did I do this? I do not know! I have an automatic switch unit for the programming track between the Powercab and main bus. To wire this for constant voltage to the programming track, the feeder wires must be spliced into the power wires from the Powercab to the switch. Two more wires then run from the output terminals of the switch to the main bus. The power leads for the programming track are about 36" long. So what did I make them from? If you said 18 gauge wire, you win a free internet smiley, and here it is: :)
So I un-soldered the programming track leads and cut the wires coming from the switch to the main bus. I use suitcase connectors for wiring to the main bus (my back won't take soldering under there! ) so cutting the wires is the only option if something has to be redone.
I managed to get the solid 14 gauge wires into the terminals on the Powercab connector and the switch. It took some pushing, but they're in there! 16 gauge would go easier, but remember the garden hose/fire hydrant thing?
I also ran 14 gauge to the programming track. There should be no signal loss now! I soldered the 14 gauge to the outside of the rails. I suppose I could have gone 18 gauge as a feeder to the 14 gauge track power wires, but why?

The connections from the power panel to the switch. You can see the rear edge of the power panel circuit board at top left. The power connector is at the right edge of that. The 14 gauge wires leading to the programming track are tied into the wires from the connector to the switch, which has it's backside covered with a piece of duct tape to prevent accidental electrical contact. The output wires to main bus come off the right side of the switch. The programming track wires run through the hole in the middle of the 1x4 crossmember, to the right of the terminal strip.
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The black wires are from the turnout frogs, but they don't enter into this story! :D
Starting tomorrow, it's back to 10 hour days at work, so railroad time is going to be even more limited than it is now. Oh, well. I have the rest of my life to get this done, right?
 
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(Lousy Photobucket.)

I have to confess: I haven't been in the train room for some time. Yes, I know: Bad me!
I went in there this morning to get something and it was COLD in there! This is how I discovered that one of the windows in the train room had gotten broken. :mad:
So now I have to spend money I don't really have on getting a window replaced. In the middle of winter.
But what really irritated me what what it did to the bridge I built to go across the river. I've been holding off installing this because I wanted to pour the water first, but I didn't want to pour the water until I bought the HO scale German Midget sub for the river. (Just because, that's why.)
Now they seem to be out of stock everywhere unless you pay outrageous prices on eBay. So I'll install the bridge and pour the water later. Or rather, I'l install the bridge after rebuilding it. The deck for the section that actually crosses the water has a very pronounced curve to it! I pulled the bridge loose from the deck, and it didn't take much effort at all! I don't recall right now what I used to glue it down with but it didn't hold too well! This time when I rebuild it, I'll glue the deck to the bridges first so I can get plenty of weight on it to really fuse the parts together, then I'll flip it over and add the beams.
Homey not real happy right now. :mad:
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Sorry about your window and bridge. I wonder if the cold caused the warping. Don't feel bad about not spending much time in the train room, your not alone. Life has a habit of getting in the way sometimes.
 
Sorry about your window and bridge. I wonder if the cold caused the warping. Don't feel bad about not spending much time in the train room, your not alone. Life has a habit of getting in the way sometimes.

I'm not sure what caused it. And yea, life can sure get in the way sometimes, can't it? :mad:
I put some tape on the bridges and marked it some I know what goes where.
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I cut a new piece of .060" styrene and put plenty of Testors cement from an orange tube on it. That stuff has more holding power than any other cement I've ever used! I used a popsicle stick to spread it evenly, then put the bridges on top, scooching them around a bit to help spread the glue, lined them up with the edges of the styrene sheet, and thoroughly weighted everything down! By morning it should all be one fused together piece! :)
Then I'll add the girders underneath. I saved some of the paint I used on this originally, a mix of various colors of craft paint. We'll see how it looks after I airbrush it.
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Sweet. Cant wait to see it put back and all together. :)

I got the new deck glued on. I'll have to trim it in a few spots. I hope to be started gluing on the new girders tomorrow after lunch. I had too much to do today to even get to it!
 
The bridge repair continues: The main girders have been installed, and the glue is drying. My faithful assistant, Wally, has graciously volunteered to stand there all night and watch the glue dry. What a trooper!
I may have to consider paying him one of these days.
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LOL!! Just like in wood working, you can never have too many clamps. :D

That's true! I actually have about twice that many of those clamps. I pick up a package about every other trip to Harbor Freight.
I'm starting on the center girders today.
 
Still working on the bridge. I got the center crossbeam glued on. Once again, Wally has volunteered to watch it dry.
In the upper left is Charles, who will pilot my Top Flite Elder 40 RC plane. His head will be linked to the aileron servo, so he will look in the direction of the turn.
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Very nice. I have a Top Flight Elder with a 52 OS 4 stroke. Great flying plane. Only problem last flight at end of the year one of my Top Flight wire wheels fell off in the weeds so I need to order another.
 
Very nice. I have a Top Flight Elder with a 52 OS 4 stroke. Great flying plane. Only problem last flight at end of the year one of my Top Flight wire wheels fell off in the weeds so I need to order another.

I'm looking forward to building it. It will probably be April or May before I get to it, though. Too many other projects to finish up first. I have a Magnum XFS52 4 stroke for it that I bought from a guy on RCU.
Did you find that the rudder authority was lacking? I've read comments that it needs a bigger rudder. If I build the tailplane bigger, I'll stick frame it to reduce weight back there.
You lost a wheel, huh? I know those wire wheels are a bit pricey! Did you have it secured with a wheel collar? I've come to distrust those for holding wheels on. My PT60 has a washer soldered onto the back of the gear, and another (loose) on the front secured by a cotter pin. I had to anneal the wire before I could drill it! That music wire is tough stuff!
Starting on page 7, post #171, are the details of how I made functional gear for my Superstar 60:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/sho...-60-repair-and-recover&highlight=Superstar+60

The gear on the Elder will be done differently. This explains it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTz4fmTne7c

Good luck with your Elder!
 
I finally finished installing the I-beams under the bridge. Yes, it took long enough! :eek:
Maybe next weekend I'll have enough time to get it painted. When I install this, I will run some #2 flat head screws through the deck and into the abutments. I don't know why the old deck curled so bad like it did, but between construction adhesive and some screws, this one should stay nice and flat for ever and always! ;)
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A you said the rudder doesn't have a lot of authority but with the flat bottom wing it's not in its element spinning around. It's a great looking plane flying back and forth with an inellman throwen in. Wheel is gone, had a flat spot with collar, still need to order new one. Maybe I'll solder washer to the gear.
 
A you said the rudder doesn't have a lot of authority but with the flat bottom wing it's not in its element spinning around. It's a great looking plane flying back and forth with an inellman throwen in. Wheel is gone, had a flat spot with collar, still need to order new one. Maybe I'll solder washer to the gear.

True, it's not meant to be a 3D plane by any means. I would like to be able to do some nice stall turns with it, though. Those are always fun!
Did you check out the YouTube video I linked to? No more lost wheels with that method! I picked up some 5/32 x .014 brass tube from K&S. I'm doing some preliminary stuff before starting the actual build. It's getting harder and harder to resist the temptation to start it, though!
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2951214-Top-Flite-Elder-40-build
 
FWIW, all the rr bridges I've seen have the beams supporting the tracks underneath, running parallel to the rail, not perpendicular. Sort of like modern highway overpasses. Utimately it doesn't matter if it works for you.
 
Western Nebraska has always done thing a bit differently than the rest of the world! (Boy, am I going to get flamed for THAT!! :D)
I couldn't remember which jar had the mixture for this color. There were two candidates, so I opened both jars and put a bit of paint from each on a scrap of styrene. One of the jars of paint was diluted with just water, I believe, because it sure smelled like mold when I opened it! The other was diluted with a 50/50 mix of 91% isopropyl alcohol and water, and it smelled just fine. It's a bit more black than the rest of the bridge. The other color comes bit closer, but I'm probably going to throw it out. It just smells too bad. If there's a slight color mismatch it's because the top of the bridge was replaced recently. I'm thinking the bottom will get brush painted.
That's my story and I'm stuck with it.... er, in it.... or something like that.
 



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