The Union Pacific Soggy Bottoms Division (HO scale)

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flyboy2610

Loveably weird
Work continues on the RustEze Medicated Bumper Ointment shipping/receiving building.
I have drawn the lines on the upper part of the floor. I have positioned a couple of boxcars on the floor to give an idea of how they will fit in the building.
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The right side of the floor will be notched to fit around the door I beams.
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I am using some Plastruct 1/2" I beams to bring the floor up to the level of the boxcar doors.
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Here I have glued the I-beams in place to support the floor.
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Holy kumquats, Batman! It actually fit correctly on the first try! That never happens. At least to me. But the floor fits correctly. I will glue some styrene around the bottom edges to conceal the gap.
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Here is a pic of a couple of boxcars inside the building.
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And with the doors in place. The doors will be cut and glued in the open position.
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I glued some Plastruct .125 x .250 strips together to make some .125 x .500 strips. these will go under the bottom edge of the floor to seal the gap and provide support for the edge of the floor. I have placed on the floor so you can see how they'll be positioned.
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I have decided to relocate the entrance doors to the back sides of the building. In their current position, people entering the facility would walk right into the area where the forklifts would be entering and exiting the boxcars. Management does not like that idea. After the floor is installed, I'll glue some styrene sheet along the inner walls to give them a finished look and hide the mold marks. Then I'll patch the outer wall and foundation.
I had a thought earlier: Why am I putting so much time and effort into something for which there's not even a prototype? The answer: I don't know. But I'm having fun doing it, and that's really all that matters!
 

flyboy2610

Loveably weird
Except for some strips of .100 x .312 styrene I want to install on each side of the pits, the interior is ready for paint. 2 reasons for the above strips:
1. The height of the tie spikes is pretty close to .100, so that will aid in installing some styrene strips from the walls of the pits over to the side of the rails to cover the ties.
2. A .312 strip on each side of the pit will center the track perfectly in the middle of the pit. Win/win!
Here is an overhead shot of the interior of the building:
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The doors will be in the left side corners, one in each corner.
A view of the front wall:
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A view of the back wall:
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There will be styrene L-angle installed along all the upper edges of the pits to protect the vulnerable concrete corners, and maybe along the vertical corners of the pits, I haven't decided yet.
I also 'patched' the outside of the building where the doors were originally supposed to be installed. The joints didn't come out perfectly, but hey, isn't that what shrubbery is for?! ;)
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I also shaved off all of the locating strips on the inside of the roof panels, because with the additions I've made they don't fit right anyway. I rubber banded the roof into position, then used Testors thin plastic cement to glue them together. Once they were dry, I ran a bead down the inside seam as well. Came out pretty good, I think! The roof on this building will be removable, but I don't plan to light it.
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A pile of styrene bits & bobs that will go in my scrap load container.
I also put up the 4 LED lights I bought, more to get them out of the way than anything right now. They do a pretty fair job of lighting up that area. That is where the 19 foot stretch of benchwork will be located. The two ceiling fixtures will be replaced with some LED double ring lamp fixtures. On the I-beams, I installed some 1 x 3's with construction adhesive, the cut some squares of 3/8" plywood and glued them to the sides. The plywood is even with the edge of the I-beam. I will install a 1 x 6 cut to fit the I-beam on the outer sides and across the front, like the one on the left where the telephone is.
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I still have some cleaning to do, and I'd like to give the wall a coat of paint. I guess I can say, though, that construction has started on my layout.
 

flyboy2610

Loveably weird
I got the basement wall I-beams framed in. I need to paint them next.
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I left a space at the bottom of the boards just in case any water gets in. That's not something we generally have an issue with, but just in case...
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I want to give the shipping/receiving building a coat of gray primer. I'm leaning towards a light tan color for the outside, maybe a light yellow for the interior walls. After all, buh-na'-nuhs are the Minions favorite food, you know!
(Watch the first 4 minutes.)
 

flyboy2610

Loveably weird
Today was primer day. (And y'all thought it was Sunday!)
I gave the I-beams a quick coat of Zinsser primer. It's good stuff, but smells kind of like a wet diaper!
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I also gave the shipping/receiving building a coat of Testors Model Master gray primer. The outside color will be what Testors calls 'sand', and the interior will be cadmium yellow. The Minions work better in brightly colored rooms, and I like the color.
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I'm going to hold off installing any entrance doors until I know how this will be oriented on the layout, and how it will sit relative to the main building. I will also have to put a door in the back wall so the forklifts can transit between the buildings, but that will have to wait as well.
 

flyboy2610

Loveably weird
I gave the primer on the building a week to cure, then masked the outside of the building and shot the concrete color. The painters tape I used said it was low tack.
On this side it was:
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The front
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and the back
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had some issues, however! :mad:
Not sure what happened. After I had all the styrene glued in place, I thoroughly washed the inside and outside of the building with warm water and a few drops of soap. I scrubbed it well and rinsed it very thoroughly. I let it air dry for several days, and never touched it with bare hands, always had rubber gloves on. I did notice that the primer stuck to the styrene 'patches' everywhere, it only lifted on the factory plastic. The primer is Testors Model Master gray acrylic primer, thinned 6 parts paint to 1 part thinner. What I use for thinner is 91% isopropyl alcohol diluted 50% with distilled water. I've never had this issue before. Homey not amused!
When I spray the interior, I'll cut a piece of thin cardboard, like from a cereal box, and lay that on the floor.
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I'm still plugging away at painting the walls behind my eventual layout. I got 3 sections painted, still have the two large sections to do, and I'm going to paint the meter enclosure.
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I went to Menards and bought 4 10 foot long 1x4's, and 4 10 foot long 1x2's. Cutting 12 inches off each board will give me what I need to make 2 19 foot L-girders.
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Most of the pile of wood you see to the left of the 10 footer's will be reused for the new layout. The original 2x2 legs are too short, though. I want this layout up a bit higher than they will reach. I want to be able to roll around under the layout using that round mechanic's seat. My legs and back will appreciate that!
 





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