The M-K & Eastern RR


I've started on the ballasting.
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I use Chamotte clay that I glue with Mod Podge matte diluted with water and a drop of detergent.
I add acrylic paint to the mix before applying it on the ballast.
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I think it looks quite good.
 
I've started with the plaster work on the mountains.
I use a mix of WS moulds, home made latex moulds and alu foil.
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The plaster is regular plaster of Paris.
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I prefer to cast in situ. I wait until the plaster shows small wrinkles in the mould before placing it on the mountain.
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I carve the surface with WS rock carving tools.
May need some more plaster in places.
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I test painted a mountain...
:)
I use regular acrylics and WS earth pigments.
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First an ochre wash.

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Then a light wash of burnt sienna.

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And finally (?) gray stone earth pigments.
As it is supposed to look Colorado-ish, I hope this is the way to go.
It will lighten when dry.
Then some dry brushing.
 
You are doing it great!
Just remember that colors in nature are really lighter that our eyes perceive then to be.
I think someone told me that back in the last century - I think he was trying to tell me that we darken up our creations more than we should? Does this make sense?
 
Tunnel portal in wood.
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Instead of staining the wood, I'll paint it to look like wood. This was due to the strange veins in the wood which did not look good with stains.
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I use Vallejo's wood weathering kit. In the pictures I only just primed it with IDF-grey primer.
 
Painting of my tunnel portal. I used Vallejo's "Old & new wood effects" color kit.
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IDF gray.

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Painted concrete lightly and then random boards in IDF sand gray.

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Some boards painted light brown.

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Dry brushed with ivory sand.

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More dry brush with IDF sand gray.

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Dark gray wash all over.

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Airbrushed soot with weathered black.
 
My solution of current pickup on brass locomotives.
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They pick up one pole on one side of the locomotive and the other in the tender.
And it's via spring blocks .... It doesn't work well on digital.
I replaced the gearbox cover with a piece of circuit board laminate.
There is not enough space on the underside, so I had to sand the laminate 1 mm.
The holes next to the gear are filled with epoxy for strength.
The pickups are phosphor bronze which has a small spring coil made by wrapping the wire around a 0.7 mm drill bit.
The power cables are soldered to the old pickup points.
Now you have full power pickup on the locomotive, now the tender trucks will receive the same treatment.
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Bought a horse and wagon kit yesterday.
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Really nice metal kit.
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I've also started on the DCC and sound install on my K-27 #455.
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I make ports in the tender for the wiring between loco and tender so they don't get tangled.
 
You take what you have on hand...
I needed to install DCC and sound in a K-27.
So I found a sound decoder in an old locomotive.
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A 21-pin ESU V4.
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I took out the circuit board to avoid having to solder new contacts on the decoder.
I manufactured phosphor bronze pickups for the locomotive.
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I also replaced the gearbox cover with a piece of circuit board laminate.
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The decoder did not fit straight into the tender, so I 3D printed an angled holder.
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I just finished a coal bridge for my layout.
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As it's a laser cut kit, I decided not to use a wash to color the wood, instead I painted it.

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I used Vallejo IDF gray primer.

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I then applied an oil based wash from AK.

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The crane got weathered by various rust colors and powders.
Then some gloss oil spill.

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This will be a nice addition to the engine service facilities.
 



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