Iron Horseman
Well-Known Member
Just don't gap/insulate the rails for the "loop" until after the crossover.
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Start small or a bit bigger?
- Thread starter CbrandonB
- Start date
Genetk44
Active Member
My first layout was 18 years ago....two 4x8 sheets of plywood in an L-shape. I used cork roadbed,laid all the track, wired it into 7- blocks( before DCC became mainstream) , built a switch-panel with trackplan and dpdt turnout contro-switches for each of the 15 turnouts and started on the scenery(all took about 4 months of time). And then realized..1) it was going to be multi-year job to get it anywhere finished, (2) realized I didn’t like the trackplan (3) it just wasn’t inspiring me. So I tore it all down and built a switching plan (pic attached) designed by Matt Chibbaro in his book Model Railroading in Small Spaces. This was a really nice little 5ft. x16inch layout that I was able to complete to a high standard very quickly, about 4 weeks....and it offered some nice switching possibilities. Both layouts taught me a lot about various subjects,carpentry,trackwork,wiring etc., and the first one especially helped me gain confidence in wiring and electrical work. So my experience would be that actually having a completed running layout actually can be the food that drives one to continue in the hobby. Over-reaching can be frustrating to the point of actually driving one out of the hobby. I think that you learn what you actually really like and what your preferences are by building to a fairly complete level so better to start smaller but have a good plan that allows for easy future expansion if you end up wanting to go bigger down the road. So I would say...take a manageable portion of your plan above, say something in the order of 12 sq.ft. and build it to a fairly complete level, running and scenery wise. But design it and build it so you can add sections easily in the future.
montanan
Whiskey Merchant
I would also chime in and say go for it, go big.
Years ago I had added to a small N scale layout which ended up having over 11 scale miles of main line. Unfortunately, back in the 70's the locomotives were quite crude and unreliable compared to what we have today. It was all torn out and I moved on to HO scale. My layout is mostly around the wall and was built in what I guess you could call modules. I used the open grid/cookie cutter method and added 8 foot sections at a time until I used up all the walls that I had.
I have posted this photo many times as a cheap, easy and quite strong way of mounting wall sections using half inch electrical conduit. After deciding the desired length, about 2 inches of each end are flattened and a couple of holes are drilled into each end. One would be screwed into wall studs and the other to the inside of the front of the bench work. I have put my entire weight on the layout without any problems. Learned this trick from an old cabinet maker.
![IMAG0160_BURST002[1].jpg](https://modelrailroadforums.com/forum/index.php?attachments/imag0160_burst002-1-jpg.28562/ "IMAG0160_BURST002[1].jpg")
This keeps you from having legs going to the floor that you make keep stubbing your toes on plus it gives easy access to the under side of the layout for wiring and installing switch machines and any other work needed under the layout. the layout was started over 30 years ago and is still securely attached to the wall.
Years ago I had added to a small N scale layout which ended up having over 11 scale miles of main line. Unfortunately, back in the 70's the locomotives were quite crude and unreliable compared to what we have today. It was all torn out and I moved on to HO scale. My layout is mostly around the wall and was built in what I guess you could call modules. I used the open grid/cookie cutter method and added 8 foot sections at a time until I used up all the walls that I had.
I have posted this photo many times as a cheap, easy and quite strong way of mounting wall sections using half inch electrical conduit. After deciding the desired length, about 2 inches of each end are flattened and a couple of holes are drilled into each end. One would be screwed into wall studs and the other to the inside of the front of the bench work. I have put my entire weight on the layout without any problems. Learned this trick from an old cabinet maker.
This keeps you from having legs going to the floor that you make keep stubbing your toes on plus it gives easy access to the under side of the layout for wiring and installing switch machines and any other work needed under the layout. the layout was started over 30 years ago and is still securely attached to the wall.
MikeOwnby
Active Member
Just two bits of my two cents worth:
First, I would definitely go with a command station rather than the Zephyr. For anything but a tiny tabletop layout the Zephyr really is a pain in the butt to use comparatively. I speak from experience when I say that.
Second, I highly recommend AnyRail for layout design, though admittedly that opinion isn't shared by some others. If nothing else, I love that you can literally print your layout to scale and glue the pages down to guide you.
Best of luck on everything.
First, I would definitely go with a command station rather than the Zephyr. For anything but a tiny tabletop layout the Zephyr really is a pain in the butt to use comparatively. I speak from experience when I say that.
Second, I highly recommend AnyRail for layout design, though admittedly that opinion isn't shared by some others. If nothing else, I love that you can literally print your layout to scale and glue the pages down to guide you.
Best of luck on everything.
