Scenery glue ... opinions and suggestions


StevieWonder787

New Member
I'm looking for insight on scenery glue.

Should I buy Woodland Scenics pre-mixed scenery glue or create my own concoction, which I assume would be significantly cheaper?

And, if the home mixed version is the way to go, what is the base glue? Elmer's white (there are several versions from School Glue to Glue All)?

And then what would be the water to glue mixture formula? I've heard 3 parts water to 1 part glue.

And, finally, I've heard I should add a few drops of liquid dish soap? How many drops per ounce of mixture?

Do you prefer to brush on or spray on for larger scenery areas (grass)?

Thanks in advance.
 
I mix my own. About a 60:40 mix of water and any Elmer's white glue. I use an old Elmer's bottle to mix it in and add 5 drops or so of liquid dishwashing detergent. Shake it up and dribble it on straight from the bottle. I use the bottles with the pointed applicator. I spread my ground foam first and prior to dribbling the glue on, I mist everything (fine mist) with an approximate 50:50 mixture of water and 70% rubbing alcohol. Exact percentages are not important, close works just fine for me. If you use higher percentage denatured alcohol, it can be less than 50:50. I have tried using a sprayer for the glue mixture before and ended up with a clogged nozzle. If you dribble too heavily and wash away some of the scenery materials, just apply more.
There are other methods but this is what works for me. I have never tried applying the glue first and sprinkling foam on top. I use the same technique for ballast. I also realize that the dishwashing detergent and alcohol are somewhat redundant, but both are cheap.
 
Agree with Willie, 60/40 works well, and is inexpensive. I use 50/50 mix, but both would achieve the same results. Do your own experiments to see what you like. I have never tried it, but they say all scenic cement is 1 part matte medium to 2 parts water and a few drops of dish soap. I use a cheap dollar store 3/4 inch brush for larger areas. It is all water clean-up so the brush will last for many applications.
 
OK. Newbie here, so I'll cry uncle early and ask what is matte medium and where would I purchase that?
Matte Medium is used by artists to preserve works of art. Basically a liquid, medium viscosity, clear, acrylic "paint" that dries with a non-reflective matte finish. For example, it could be sprayed over a charcoal picture to protect it from future smudging.

It can be purchased at any art supply store, including the Hobby Lobby and Michael's chains. As you might guess it is quite a bit more expensive than white glue.

I use it almost exclusively instead of white glue for scenery. It does not get brittle or turn yellow over time like white glue does. I also use it for laying cork roadbed and track.

I believe Woodland Scenics "scenery glue" is actually a matte medium base product.
 
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OK. Newbie here, so I'll cry uncle early and ask what is matte medium and where would I purchase that?

I purchase my matte medium from Amazon. If you are patient, and wait you can get it as a add on item much cheaper. You can also download the 40% off coupon at Hobby Lobby.
 
One thing to consider if you buy the cheap "school" glue is that they are already a diluted glue mixture and a 50/50 water /glue mix is about right.
I use a cheap 1" paint brush to spread my glue mixture, shake real sifted dirt or ground foam on it and spray an alcohol/water mix on top to "set' the scenery material. When dry, the material is very secure.
But, this is only one of the ways you can "skin a cat "or do scenery.
 
I buy Elmers White Glue in gallon jugs at a home improvement store. I mix it 50-40-10 glue-water-rubbing alcohol (roughly, no precise measurements) in Ketchup/mustard dispensers. I spray the scenery or ballast with a 90-10 mix of water-rubbing alcohol to wet it, then dribble white clue on it. A friend uses Windex or cheap window glass cleaner in a spray bottle instead to wet the scenery. Matte medium or Modge Podge Matte are about the same thing. I have tried several different options and the white glue seems to work well and is the cheapest.
 
I use Elmer's White School Glue, WS Scenic Cement and contact cement. The contact cement I use when attaching ground foam to the layout especially on grades and areas when the other glues don't have any holding power. I buy the contact cement at the Dollar Store for $1.00 a tube and I usually buy every tube they have in stock.

Don't forgot Walter's GOO.

Greg
 
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Same with me Elmer's White Glue diluted with water 60% glue to 40% water, or there abouts. I also use Elmer's straight from the bottle for gluing clumps, trees and details to the layout.

There is no right; or, wrong with how to do this and there really isn't one way that is better than the rest.
 
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To secure large areas of scenic material I use a spray bottle filled matte medium diluted with 70% isopropyl alcohol. I add enough alcohol to allow the mixture to allow it to spray easily. I buy the matte medium in the craft section of Wal-Mart.

For gluing individual pieces of clump foliage I use a thicker mix of Elmer's-water-alcohol in the approximate ratio of 60-30-10.

In my experience, adding the alcohol to the adhesive eliminates the need to first apply alcohol and then apply the adhesive. It becomes a one-step rather than two-step process.

However you use it, the purpose of the alcohol is to break the surface tension of the adhesive so it will flow easily into the scenic material.

- Jeff
 



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