Removing / reassembling modular sections

[CbarM]

Hey guys, my layout is built in modular sections, the biggest being 2x8 feet and built on 2x3" framework with 7/16 OSB over top. I have cut gaps in the rail at the end of each section flush with the edge of the module and presently its bolted together with 2 3 1/2" 3/8 bolts. Is there an easy way to help line things up again if I take it down and reassemble it elsewhere?

 

[Trucula]

Our club made a metal templet we mount temp to the sections. It has 2 holes we drill and add dowel rod pegs to one and let other open to accept the dowel rod. We then C clamp them together underneath. We also built folding legs for travel so we have spacer blocks that go between each module's leg at the cross brace and clamped to take care of any sway. This works well and since all are matched up and track leaves the board at same area we can mix match the modules for different space area at shows.

 

[D&J RailRoad]

If your frame is made of wood, expect the wood to readjust itself. This will offset your track connections so you have pretty rough transitions from one module to the next. Using drilled holes and dowel rods or nuts and bolts locks you into this frustration of uneven ends.
The NMRA publishes module standards that help deal with the problems of wood swelling and contracting. It sets the track ends back from the edge of the module so that a 9" transition piece can be put in place that smooths out the transition. Using C clamps between the modules also provide the ability to make the minor adjustments needed for vertical and horizontal alignment. Adjustable legs using bolts on the bottom of the leg on the module are important because most floors are not the perfect plane that we plan for when building the module.
As far as the legs being permanently mounted on the bottom of the module, can you imagine carrying a module upright so your detail doesn't fall off and have the legs unfold themselves while going through a door or down a stairway? Usually, just making leg sockets on the bottom side of the module that will accept a 2x2 leg is sufficient. Mark the legs so you know which socket they go in.

 

[Selector]

I agree that conditions during the shipment and storage on either end will probably result in a poor fit, even if you can match up screw holes or dowels. The dowels would help a great deal, but would constitute at best a fair guarantee.

The floor where you assemble the layout anew will not be the same as the floor on which it was initiatlly assembled, and even walls are often not square or vertical.

So, what you must do is to assemble them roughly but with the rails aligned as you need them to be across the gaps. Clamp...hard. Re-drill and drive in new wood screws or bolts. Shim under legs that are left slightly suspended. Once you have the modules screwed together with the only goal of an initial proper rail alignment between modules, it really doesn't matter too much what it looks like on either side. You can modify the terrain and hide any unsightly breaks in the terrain.