Raising and lowering rolling stock


Raincoat2

Raincoat2

Well-Known Member
Okay - another newbie type question - - I have some rolling stock that are at different heights, so they either won't couple with other cars or they barely couple which leads to wobbling cars or uncouplings in the middle of a run. I've been around long enough to know about the trick of using washers, but that is not always possible or not always the answer to this problem. So what other solutions are there?
 
I have some Intermountain flat cars which wobble, and that is being caused, I believe, (a disclaimer here in case I'm proved wrong) by having pivot screws that are too long and bottoming out and allowing too much play. They need the tips of the screws trimming. Shimming would raise the cars and coupler heads.

For where corrections like that are not possible, Kadee do make over and underset couplers to help
https://kadee.com/htmbord/HO-Scale Couplers.htm
 
For the wobbling, tighten the truck screw on one end to where the truck just turns freely. On the other end, make that one looser to allow for some side-to-side pivot in the truck. Raising the coupler height can be done with washers, substituting 36" scale wheels or using the underset couplers, #'s 21, 31, or 141 for long shanks. Lowering the couplers can be accomplished with the overset couplers #'s 29, 39 or 149 for long shanks from Kadee. Medium and short shanks are listed on the link that Ray provided.
 
tootnkumin said:
I have some Intermountain flat cars which wobble, and that is being caused, I believe, (a disclaimer here in case I'm proved wrong) by having pivot screws that are too long and bottoming out and allowing too much play. They need the tips of the screws trimming. Shimming would raise the cars and coupler heads.

For where corrections like that are not possible, Kadee do make over and underset couplers to help
https://kadee.com/htmbord/HO-Scale Couplers.htm
Click to expand...

Toot,

That's a good point I never thought of, I have several sets of Intermountain Maxi-IVs that lean a bit in curves, but are really noticeable when loaded with 2 53 foot containers. I tried tightening up the trucks, but I'm afraid of putting any more twist on them. I bet shortening up those screws will take care of that problem.
 
migalyto said:
Toot,

That's a good point I never thought of, I have several sets of Intermountain Maxi-IVs that lean a bit in curves, but are really noticeable when loaded with 2 53 foot containers. I tried tightening up the trucks, but I'm afraid of putting any more twist on them. I bet shortening up those screws will take care of that problem.
Click to expand...
These ones seem to have an unthreaded tip on the screw. File that down if yours are like that, a bit at a time, and test.
 
Everyone - great information. thanks. I'll get some of the different wheels and underset couplers and try some different combinations.
 
I guess the best way to do this is to line up the rolling stock on a flat straight section of track, see which ones couple properly and are at the same height, identify the ones that are "off," pull them out and adjust them by changing the wheels or using underset couplers. I'll let you know how this goes. Probably won't get to this for a while yet.
 
I didn't know they made an insulated one. Might have to look for one of those at the train show Saturday.
 
That insulated coupler height gauge is only US $6.50 on the Kadee website. It also comes as part of their starter kits, and since I'm new to this aspect of the hobby I'm thinking of getting the starter kit. Might wait to see if I can find it at the Joplin Train show next month - - if not, I'll order it from Kadee.
 
It might be wise to get an NMRA gauge that not only has coupler height, but wheel gauge, track gauge and a host of other stuff. It does cost more though. I have both because that Kadee gauge is so easy to use. It doesn't have to be permanently mounted, but can be used anywhere that has track.
 
Willie - Thanks for the tip. Don't have the NMRA gauge either. Might be worth the investment. I'll keep my eye out for both gauges at the train show next month.
 
Just a point is that you might also want to get a truck tuner tool. Also depending on the type of frame on some engines a metal coupler could cause a short between various cars so make sure you can insulate between vehicles if needed.
 
Raincoat2 said:
Okay - another newbie type question - - I have some rolling stock that are at different heights, so they either won't couple with other cars or they barely couple which leads to wobbling cars or uncouplings in the middle of a run. I've been around long enough to know about the trick of using washers, but that is not always possible or not always the answer to this problem. So what other solutions are there?
Click to expand...
One pretty drastic solution is to completely replace the bolster, or at least the truck mount on the bolster. For HO scale I use a 1/8" styrene tube inside of a second 5/32" styrene tube. The purpose of two pieces is to make the smaller one a tiny bit taller so a screw can be tightened and still not squeeze the truck to the bolster.

Here is one I threw together really fast which was a mistake. One can see I didn't clean the bolster nice and clean. Should have filed it smooth. Second I didn't get the new pin in straight. Don't know if I drilled crooked or if I used too much glue and it "melted" sideways. But it demonstrates what I am talking about.
bolster.jpg
 
Last edited:
On my work bench, I have a section of 1X3 pine board where I mounted a section of Code 83 track. This track is connected to my DCC system and can be isolated from the layout for programming purposes.

On the track, I mounted KD uncouplers at either end to test coupler action using the uncouplers to see if any adjustments are need. I can also place my older KD coupler height gauge tool on this track when needed.

I'm putting together a separate programming track for my Digitrax PR4 DCC programming interface as I explained in the Coffee Shop.

A NMRA gauge is a valuable tool to use like others have said.

Greg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.



Back
Top