Posi-tap connectors


ICG/SOU

ICG/SOU

HO & O (3-rail) trainman
So, upon Jim's advice, I ordered some off of the Posi-Lock website. My feeders are 18 AWG strand, and my buses will be 14 AWG strand. I ordered the blue ones (which say on the site they're good for 14 AWG), but when I got them, the insulation was too thick on the 14 gauge wire I already had. I had some 14 AWG solid copper with thinner insulation, but it looks like the tap likes stranded wire over solid (for the bus, anyway).

The package said 16-18 AWG, contrary to the website. I'm sure I'll be able to find some 14 AWG stranded that has thinner insulation (since I've got more wire to run than originally planned, I needed more anyway) , but if you guys are going to use these connectors, buy one set first before ordering the 60 you need to complete the layout, to make sure your wire will fit.
 
14ga. lamp wire is the best because the plastic shield is a lot thinner than regular lite fixture wire.
 
I want to add that NAPA sells these in smaller packs that you could buy and try out before purchasing the whole lot for your layout.
 
My NAPA didn't have them in stock, and the ones they had in the computer were $6 per pair. When I told the guy his price was too high because I'd need 30 pair, his jaw dropped.

I wired the first power district (two lift gate bridges and a remote end of the layout with the grain elevator, small yard, and two other industries are) with the 14 AWG solid copper, and it wasn't bad, but I did have to cut into the insulation a little to get the tap to work well. Tomorrow I'll go to Home Depot and pick up some 14 AWG as suggested above.

Of course, I miscounted the amount I needed in connectors, and am about 20 short. I'll finish them up with suitcase connectors I bought before I heard of the Posi-taps.
 
Sorry, Trey, coming into this late since I was away. The blue Posi-Taps should be 16-18 AWG, as it said on the package. It looks like the web site is in error. Call them and they'll replace them. They are meant for standed wire, if you don't strip the tap wire. If you have solid wire, just strip back enough insulation to expose the copper core. Make sure the little spike is in contact with the solid core before you screw it down and it will work fine.
 
No worries, Jim.

I had purchased 60 of them, but in the end, I needed more like 100. I went over to Home Depot and picked up some 14 gauge THHN stranded (I had some 14 gauge THHN solid for the first power district), and then wired everything up. Having used the suitcase connectors on the O layout below, crimping and such was a pain. For the HO, the farthest bus I had to run was almost 3' away, which made it a tight fit to get to it, and put on connectors. If I hadn't had Positaps for that, I would have burned down the layout in frustration. They worked just fine, and with your earlier post on stripping a little insulation off the solid wire, I was able to avoid other headaches.

Thanks again.
 
Trey, I can't say wiring is ever fun but Posi-Taps sure make it a lot easier. You do go through a passel of them with a large layout. Even with my dinky layout, I think I've used about 70 Posi-Taps and Posi-Twists for all the lights and track drops. I figure I need another 40 or so for the grade crossings and signal system.
 
I'm just wondering, but as professional electricians use wire caps, why do we not use them? Is there anything wrong with them?

For anybody who doesn't know what I'm talking about, a picture is attached.
 
lack of space for most locos. the more metal weight you remove the less it can pull. I find shrink tubing is the best with very thin wires
 
Nothing wrong with wire caps at all, as long as you are just joining the ends of two wires together. It's joining a connection from the bus to the layout for things like track feeders and lighting that are the problem. Wire caps won't do you any good for those kinds of connections.
 
Talking about track bus and feeder wiring. I did use wire nuts/caps on the ends of the buses, since it didn't seem right to just have the wire end.
 
I had to go to the Posi website to look up what a Posi-Tap was. After reviewing the product I looked at the online ordering pricing and I was shocked. If I am looking at what others here are talking about the cost of the blue Posi-Tap is outrageous, at least from the manufacturer.

Is anybody here really paying $29.95 for a package of package of 30 (ZPTL-605-30) Posi-taps or are these available from third party vendors for a much lower price.

I have been using suitcase connectors myself for a couple of years. I find that I can purchase a package of 50 (25 red and 25 blue) at Harbor Freight for $5.99. Harbor Freight also sells a package of 50 blue for $5.99. They are quick and easy to install and the blue ones work well interconnecting most 14-16 awg wire to 14-16 awg wire and the red ones work well interconnecting most 14-16 awg wire to 18-22 awg wire. You can get the suitcase connectors in small numbers from the local Radio Shack if you need only a few.
 
Al, you can get them for about 75 cents each from some distributors rather than going through the company. My first thought when I bought an assortment of these is that the price was really high. Since using them, the ease and convenience is well worth the price. They are reusable, unlike a suitcase connector, and provide a postive electrical connection and strong mechanical connection every time. I guess I'm just not very good at laying under the layout, trying to keep the wires aligned, while also getting a good crimp. All I can say is buy some and give them a try. If you still find suitcase connectors easier to use, no problem. I know I'll never use them again.
 
UP2CSX said:
Nothing wrong with wire caps at all, as long as you are just joining the ends of two wires together. It's joining a connection from the bus to the layout for things like track feeders and lighting that are the problem. Wire caps won't do you any good for those kinds of connections.
Click to expand...

Well, you could strip it and bend it, thus making an endpoint without an actual endpoint...
Are wire caps cheaper than Posi-Taps though?
 
Wire caps are way cheaper than any other kind of connector. In terms of using them for connecting a drop wire to a bus wire, you could do it, but you'd have to strip a fair length of bus wire and you have the drop wire at kind of a weird angle to fit in the wire cap. The twisting it would take for a secure connection would put a lot of strain on the bus wire, especially if you have drop wires close together. I've tried it before and the results weren't very good.
 
UP2CSX said:
Wire caps are way cheaper than any other kind of connector. In terms of using them for connecting a drop wire to a bus wire, you could do it, but you'd have to strip a fair length of bus wire and you have the drop wire at kind of a weird angle to fit in the wire cap. The twisting it would take for a secure connection would put a lot of strain on the bus wire, especially if you have drop wires close together. I've tried it before and the results weren't very good.
Click to expand...

Alrighty then. So you think I should buy Posi-Taps?
It's just that I have much easier access to wire caps than any other kind of connector, so I wanted to make sure that there was a good reason to not use them. I might still do a few experiments just to check.
 
Between wire nuts/caps, suitcase connectors, and Posi-taps, I'd choose the Posi-taps for the reasons that Jim stated above (reusable, positive electrical connection, easier to use than the other choices). When it comes time to wire lights and run a light bus, I'll get some more.

See if you can go down to your local NAPA and buy a couple, and try them out. At most, you'd only be out about $5 or $6.
 
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