Planning portable or sectional layout.


trenes115

New Member
I'm considering building a sectional or modular HO scale layout. We are in a small house with no space for a permanent model railway so need something that can be readily moved.

Something like the Heart of Georgia http://hogrr.blogspot.com/ appears to be a better option than a table-style layout and sections would be easier to handle.

What is a good method for joining modules or sections so they can be easily separated? Bolts with wing nuts, clamps or some other way? Thanks!
 
I've used clamps along with dowels in holes and had no problems.
The bolts and wingnuts can be a pain after awhile.
 
I agree with Rico. Clamps can compensate for all sorts of issues. If you go the bolt route, the holes will wear and you will be using clamps. Most Free-Mo modelers use clamps for there modules because of the flexability of there use.
I would also suggest you use birch 3/4 plywood for framing your modules. Low or no warping like dimensional lumber.
Wayne
Western Reserve Free-Mo
 
If your benchwork is able to support it, use door hinges, the kind with the removable hinge pins. My old club in Mobile, Al has a layout that has had these pins in place since 1981. My current club has used them on both of the modular layouts we've had since 1989.

If you use something for the benchwork edge, like a 1x3, etc that is to say, something smaller than a 1x4, you can beef up the corners befoore the hinges are attached. Place a 2x4 block in the corner, cut to a 5-6" length, and attach it to the back side of the corner, running "long ways" with the longer sides of the module. Then attach the hinges, using a slightly longer screw than they come with.

To attach the hinges, you have to first attach the modules together, using C-clamps. The spring clamps aren't strong enough. Make sure the modules are level with each other, both length and width, that the roadbed and track, we used 6" pieces of Atlas snap track as joiner tracks, is smooth with no bumps or elevation problems.

Take the hinges, still assembled, and place one side on a module, with the hinge pin splitting the joint. Use a small level to make sure the hinge is level, mark an outline of the hinge and mark for pilot holes on one side. Remove hinge, drill the pilot holes, put the hinge back on the module using the marked outline and pilot holes to position exactly, and screw that side down. Then just flatten the other side of the hinge against the other module, and drill the pilot holes, and screw into place. Repeat for the other side. Wash, rinse and repeat for all the other modules.

Using this method to assemble our layout, we can start on assembly, and then be running trains in less than 40 minutes. This is a 4 man crew, assembling a 20'x30' layout.
 
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I saw a nifty layout idea, it's on a upside down T frame at either end, and when not in use, the layout rotates to be vertical! Just a thought?
 
Thanks for the suggestions. Have been wanting to find a way to get my trains out of boxes and actually run. Thought about a door-sized N-scale layout but already have a fair collection of HO so didn't want to start over.
 
Saw a short article about using window sash locks (or whatever they're called on windows that open vertically - never did learn window terminology, LOL). Supposedly snugs up the modules / sections nicely.
 



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