Planning my first layout


Emailed it to you, I have been using the Atlas Code 100 Track pieces for the layout. Prefer to just use them as its about all I can find in my town. I don't even think we have a hobby shop here. Which is kinda lame.
 
It is worth either getting the stuff at a train show or buying online. We'll make sure you get the right stuff. The file is back attcha.
 
That layout is meant to be operated from the outside. The center of the U is an area my wife needs for her projects. If you still want the specs I can send them. A couple of the turnouts are intended to be hand-layed.

HAND-LAYED?!?!?!?! OUCH!...never attempted that yet tho it does look somewhat easy with the kits and tools off your page... I suppose they are on the mainline too?..where I couldn't re-do a siding easily. ;)
 
All the mainline tunouts are NMRA standard #4's, and yes, Fasttracks are perfect.

The two that are problematic are the double slips in Rock Ridge and Train City, the crossover in train city near the roundtable and the curved turnout off the yard lead in train city.
 
I see what your saying about it being a layout operated by the outside since the yards are both fartherest away...yeah that would be tough for my room. I am looking for the same shape, that much operation, but standing in the cutout center. Am trying to visualize the same mainline with the yards moved but I know that's gonna cut down the size of the yards allot.
 
Nice job on my layout spacemouse, although I must admit my somewhat limited knowledge of railroads prevents from seeing the purpose of some tracks.

the 2 tracks that were my yard lead and engine servicing, are they both servicing now?, they seem to be too short for a lead. Would I use the track that heads back to the mainline as a lead?

Also the extra yard track that is separated from the other 3, is this some sort of repair track? or caboose area?.

and lastly the extra track in the bottom right hand corner that is parallel to the bottom table edge, not the staging area, what is that? some kind of interchange maybe?

And the staging track that led to the mainline, are the 3 tracks that that branches into storage for trains?
 
up.jpg


Nice job on my layout spacemouse, although I must admit my somewhat limited knowledge of railroads prevents from seeing the purpose of some tracks.

the 2 tracks that were my yard lead and engine servicing, are they both servicing now?, they seem to be too short for a lead. Would I use the track that heads back to the mainline as a lead?

I think if you measure from the point in the yard throat, where the 3 parallel tracks branch, you'll still have more than the longest yard track.

Also the extra yard track that is separated from the other 3, is this some sort of repair track? or caboose area?.

I thought you were going to put an industry there. I gave it a little more space so you could.

and lastly the extra track in the bottom right hand corner that is parallel to the bottom table edge, not the staging area, what is that? some kind of interchange maybe?

Right. Figure the two crossing tracks are the UP Mainline (horizontal) and the BNSF Mainline (vertical). The track numbered 4 is the place the two railroads leave cars for each other. You don't really store trains, but you can run cars out th the exchange and swap them out. This allows more variety of cars on the track without seeming weird. Also this allows you to attach permanent or fold down staging (or cassettes) along either route.

And the staging track that led to the mainline, are the 3 tracks that that branches into storage for trains?

Not enough room for trains, but cars if you must. See staging options above.
 
Ok, I see what you did now, thanks for clearing that up. I totally forgot about putting an industry in the yard, I think I will put a coal loading dock there, coal is brought in by trucks from all over the Treston county and stored there. Empties come in from the other railroads and are loaded here, where they are sent to a division point yard down the line to be added to massive coal trains heading all over the country. More work for the yard master having to switch the coal mine as well.

And I understand the tracks on the right now, they are places where I leave cars for the other railroads and pick up cars for this branch. I can put cars there and physically take them off the layout to rejoin the action some time later.

Thanks for all your help Spacemouse and others whose names I don't currently recall, I think this layout is exactly what I want.

When construction begins (hopefully soon) I'll be sure to dig up this thread and post pictures of the layout.
 
Recently I went to the local store and bought some track segments to start laying track and having a bit of a play with it. I am having a problem with the Atlas turnouts, the #4 and snap switches. When the locomotives wheels get to the part where the rails intersect (I think it's called the frog). The wheels look like they are getting stuck in there and the loco derails.

All the rolling stock goes through easily, just the locos are having issues. Watching it it sort of looks like the wheels "fall" into the frog and get stuck there in the V.

Has anyone ever had anything like this and how did you fix it. Any help is appreciated.
 
This is a common problem with Atlas snap switches. The first issue is binding so file a bit off each inside edge of the frog (yes, you got that right :) ) and see if that helps. If it's the frog being too deep, get some .010 styrene and cut it into strips just slightly narrower and longer then the frog. Use a drop of super glue and glue the styrene into the bottom surface of the frog. Check to see how the engines run now. If you still notice wheel drop, glue in another piece. Do it in thin layers like this because a frog that's not deep enough will derail engines as fast as a frog that's too deep.
 
Thanks for the answer, I'll have go later tonight (work getting in the way, blah). When you say the inside of the frog I assume you mean the 2 thin grooves in between the actual intersection and the raised plastic "shoulders". If they doesn't work I'll see if I can find some foam.
 
Yes, but you want to file the inside of the raised part of the switch (both guard rails and the frog) in case they are too tight. You don't use foam to fill in the flat parts of the frog, you use .010 sheet styrene. Foam would be far too thick.
 



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