If some of your steam is long enough that you need blind drivers, the blind drivers can cross over onto the opposite polarity and cause shorts and stalling. For that reason alone, it is a good idead to have insulated or painted frogs for the eight and ten-coupled steamers. The BLI long steamers are examples, at least in the J1 2-10-4 and I'm pretty sure the T-1 C&O original version on which the J1 is based. My earlier Paragon T1 Duplex has both inner axles blind, although flanged drivers were included in the package if I had curves longer than about 35" or so. I have found that those blind drivers will come well over onto adjacent rails at and near the frog. In one case, a Walthers/Shinohara curved #7.5, which I butchered to make it about a #8.X, I had to paint a bit o the frog point or actually use a cut-off disk and cut the inside frog point rail outward of the small black plastic spacer....these are "DCC friendly". Paint must be reapplied periodically, whereas a cut is permanent and does the trick.
If your 0-4-0 is quite important to you, you should get the electrofrogs, at least where it is likely to be used. You can paint any spots where wheels of any of the steamers run into trouble...just a 3 mm wide band of clear nail varnish will do it. If you feel brave, use a grinder stone on a Dremel and grind down the flange face corner where the vertical face meets the tire surface on the rail, and reduce that by about 1 mm smoothly. The outer edge of a driver tire with wipers on it are what causes the problem, so if you can nudge the surface downward and away a tad, that would clear it for you. Personally, a Dremel cut-off disk is quick and permanent, and if not placed too far away so that it ruins the electrical qualities for your 0-4-0 at the frog, you can still have the electrified frog, but a gap for shorts management.
We haven't talked about managing power to an electrofrog, but you probably know a bit about that.
makes my brain hurt...