Identifying locos for DCC


oplholik

oplholik

Member
I have a diesel loco, that I don't know what manufacture it is from or if it is DCC ready. How can I identify it and determine if it is DCC ready? I see no markings on the frame to determine if is Atlas, Athearn, or whatever.
 
Hi Paul,

Well you could remove the shell and look for a decoder inside.

Or you could connect it to a DCC command station (CS) and listen for a hum or buzz indicating that the is no decoder.

If you decide there is a decoder use the CS to read CV7 and CV8 which are the version and manufacture values.

Frederick
 
If you can post a couple of pics of the loco, with especially a view of the underside, I'll bet a penny to a pound (and since we no longer use Pounds, shillings and pence here, I'm pretty safe) someone on here can identify the loco and whether it is, or not, as you want.
 
The loco in question has a DC decoder in it, I just don't know if it will take a DCC decoder.
I'll put up some pics of it in a bit when my eyes are awake enough to take it apart.
 
Bottom line, if the motor's brushes can be isolated from rail pickup and/or the frame, you are good to go. If you can ensure the motor only gets electricity from a decoder output, and nowhere else, even inadvertently or intermittently, you can add that decoder and get a DCC-capable locomotive.

If the motor is cradled or mounted in metal, you'll have to free it, possibly by milling the frame, and then suspending it in a plastic construction. Some use goop, a big dollop of it, and squish the motor onto the dollop so that its shaft aligns closely with any drive-shafts to which it must couple. Assuming the drive shafts meet with at least one plastic gear, you should be okay. If one of the drive-shafts is plastic that would constitute an isolating barrier. Whatever the case, that metal shaft in the motor can't come into contact with metal that runs in metal bushings cradled inside a metal block on the frame. You get the idea.
 
Pics of the mystery loco. I'm guessing Atlas on this, but I have no way of knowing for sure.
unknown5.jpgunknown4.jpgunknown3.jpgunknown2.jpgunknown1.jpg
 
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Place it on the track, close enough so that you can hear the motor. Turn on DCC power and listen to the motor. If all it does is hum, turn OFF power or remove from the track immediately; it is DC-only! Or, place on track and apply DC power. If it starts to move at very little voltage, it is DC. If it doesn't start to move until you exceed 5-7 volts, it is probably a dual decoder, DC/DCC and possibly with sound.
 
I would agree with Mark, a light board. It looks to be a very simple one, unless it has more circuitry on the other side. In the picture where the Mashima brand name is visible, it looks as though the motor is sitting in a plastic frame, if so, then it is isolated from the frame and DCC compatible. There would also be 2 electrical connections from the motor (wires or brass strips) to the board.
 
Here's a link to a ModelRailroader forum page with some very good information re decoders for this engine, Seems there were several motors used in these models, 3 or 5 pole and looks like of the 5 pole, which I think yours will be, 3 versions there also. Have fun.

http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/98917.aspx
 
I see that the motor is cradled in a plastic holder, so looks like it's going to be ok with a a DCC decoder, it also looks to be an Athern SD75M. I think I'm good to go DCC with this. Thanks everyone. :)
 
There may well be drop in decoders for this model. Pull out the light board and replace with a decoder. I agree, this looks like an Athearn product.
 
Read that MR page. It tells you that Digitrax made them. There are a couple of them because the different motors fitted over the life of the engine model had different electrical connectors. A matter of deciding which yours is and contacting Digitrax for advice.
 
Well, this is getting too complicated for me. This engine is out of the mix, as I've plenty of others to use with no headaches. Thanks all.
 
Paul,

Can you let us know what has become too complicated. From all accounts it is just a matter of removing the light board and installing an appropriate DCC decoder if the motor is isolated from the chassis as it seems to be.

With that being said, I'm the last person to give advice on decoder installations but you did seem pretty confident a couple of posts ago.

Just curious mate.
 
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