How to wire reversing section with yard

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#1
I know there have been quite a few threads covering this topic but I never really got a full answer after looking through all of them. This is the first section of the layout I'm getting to so I want to get it right and then slowly branch out to rest of layout. Any help is greatly appreciated. If you could use a red pin and show on picture where gaps go, how to wire, etc.

http://db.tt/ReJgU58 - here is picture of track plan

- Direct home wiring, have Digitrax dcs100 and db150, 2 psx-arfb
- where do gaps go
- do I need multiple boosters for power
- do I run wire from booster to psx-arfb then to track feeders throughout reversing section
 

N-gauged

Off The Rails
#2
I tried to re-create your drawing using SCARM and it wasn't easy.
This will be better for someone to use to show you with.

What scale is your layout and what kind of track is it?


 
#3
Thank You

Looks a lot better than my drawing. Thanks for taking the time to do that.

HO scale and walthers shinohara code 83 flex track and dcc friendly turnouts.
 

RexHea

RAIL BENDER
#4
Anywhere in that reversing loop after the turnout and around the right-outer track, but I would put it in the right-outer straight section at train length between gaps would be ideal. "Train" length is not absolutely necessary, but it would take care of any lighted cars you may have now or in the future.

Just cut gaps in both rails at both ends. One wire to each rail in this isolated section back to your auto-reverser or toggle. EDIT: I like to fill my cut gaps with a small piece of styrene, super glue, and then file/cut it smooth to match the rail. Be careful to keep the rail aligned .
 
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#5
Not Sure

Thank you for your response but im not exactly sure where you are talking about for the gaps to go. This is a long reversing section, 60ft length train from entry to exit of loop. Will one wire to each rail be enough or can you have multiple feeders within the reversing section coming from the auto reverser. If someone could possibly draw it out for me it would make me feel better as I start to put it all together. Thanks
 

RexHea

RAIL BENDER
#6
I assuming you are going to use the loop on the right of your plan: Just because that section is 60 feet long doesn't mean you have to wire it 60 feet between gaps. If you are going to use lighted cars or lights in a caboose, you want the longest train length between the gaps. If no lighted cars, a little more than your longest engine (w/tender) is enough.

In this drawing, gap both rails anywhere between the arrows at both ends. (I would only use the distance necessary for one train). If max train is 10 feet, then ~11ft between gaps.

Connect one wire to each rail in the isolated area.

One wire to each rail is plenty. You are only going to supply power to one train. If you want, you can connect more feeds to the rails, but make sure they all go to the same terminal on the auto-reverser.

No booster is needed in your drawing. A cheap $45 reverser is good.

EDIT: My recommendation is to use the bottom loop (circular area) for the gapped section. This will allow a train to be in the loop and not be affected by another train that may be working around the top track. Only one train can be within the reverse section. If you run another train into while already occupied, it will try to reverse again screwing up each other.
 
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RexHea

RAIL BENDER
#7
BTW: I have a similar area on my layout: the trains come in from the left; go around a loop that includes a reversing section; back through the town to the left and connects back to the far left to the mainline. ;)
 
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#8
Thanks

Now I get it. If I'm going to have trains with helper engines on the back then I would need to gap it full train length or a lighted caboose like you mentioned. If no helpers then just length of engines or lighted cars like you mentioned. Seems so simple now. Just wasnt sure i could keep gaps so close within the reversing section if my trains are small. Thought the gaps had to go at the entry and exit of loop so I was confused how to wire yard section. Keeping gaps before yard makes sense and keeps things simple. Thanks you so much for taking the time to explain.
 

RexHea

RAIL BENDER
#9
Glad I could help you out a little. I have several areas that are only a couple of feet of track in the reverse section and run 10ft trains through it just fine (no lighted cars)
Note: you can actually get away with lighted cabooses and a short reverse section. The main thing is to have your locomotives out of the reverser before the caboose enters.
Lighted cars are a different matter and have a good chance of entering the reverse section before the locos have cleared...so, make the reverse section longer to accommodate the train length. Have fun!
 





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