HO Switching Layout


ACL-CSX

Founder, NHRR; Founder, Nathan's Crossroads
Regulars in the coffee shop already know this, but I wanted to present it to the rest of the forum as well.

The railroad requisition department has recently given the green light for the acquisition of a 4' by 5' chunk of real estate that will house my new HO switching layout. The railroad and area served will both be freelanced. I am designing the layout to be functional and fun without resorting to the status of being a puzzle layout. Plans are to make it fold up against the wall when not in use, but also to be built in a manner that it can easily be incorporated into a larger layout later or to serve as the base for expansion later. I plan to scratch build all structures, being as detail oriented as possible. I know that there are lots of parts that no one but I will know are detailed, but that's enough for me. I had originally planned an N scale layout around the cotton industry, and plan to roll that over to my new HO layout as well. The area used will be broken up into a horseshoe shape with each portion being 18" I width. All that being said, here's what I am in need of assistance with:
• What type of switches are best to use? (#4, #6, etc) I am using primarily Atlas Code 100 and am unfamiliar with the difference between a standard snap turn out and the rest.
• This will be strictly a freight layout since that is what all of my current HO equipment is, so what's the best radius track to use? I have 15", 18", and 22".
• What are the best industries to use associated with the processing of raw cotton?

I am planning to model late 60s to early 70s rural South Carolina, so I am not too worried about style of building as much as era correctness. It may be freelance, but i want the time period to look correct. I plan to add in prototypical roads as space allows, but for now everything will be made up so I will be leaning very hard on my modeler's license. Any ideas would be much appreciated.
 
4' by 5' chunk of real estate that will house my new HO switching layout.
functional and fun without resorting to the status of being a puzzle layout.
be incorporated into a larger layout later or to serve as the base for expansion later.
HO layout as well.
a horseshoe shape with each portion being 18"
Atlas Code 100
• What type of switches are best to use? (#4, #6, etc), am unfamiliar with the difference between a standard snap turn out and the rest.
• This will be strictly a freight layout since that is what all of my current HO equipment is, so what's the best radius track to use? I have 15", 18", and 22".
1. In my opinion, with this diminutive amount of space, #6 turnouts would just be wasting a lot of it.
2. An Atlas #4 is really a #4.75 and a nice turnout. The Snap Switches are closer to a #3, but they aren't really a numbered turnout since they are curved and this makes them have less of a kink than a real #3 would have. An Atlas #4 has a departure angle of 12.5 degrees while the Snap-switch departs at a nice clean 15 degrees.
3. I think if you try to use 22" radius corners then most of your horseshoe will be consumed with the curve, limiting what you can do. I would say to use the 18" and 15"

• What are the best industries to use associated with the processing of raw cotton?
Don't know. Would assume it all happens in a single (immense) facility with cotton bales in, mainly thread and fabric out. By products of cotton seed oil, seed, hulls, and cake.
 
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1. In my opinion, with this diminutive amount of space, #6 turnouts would just be wasting a lot of it.
2. An Atlas #4 is really a #4.75 and a nice turnout. The Snap Switches are closer to a #3, but they aren't really a numbered turnout since they are curved and this makes them have less of a kink than a real #3 would have. An Atlas #4 has a departure angle of 12.5 degrees while the Snap-switch departs at a nice clean 15 degrees.
3. I think if you try to use 22" radius corners then most of your horseshoe will be consumed with the curve, limiting what you can do. I would say to use the 18" and 15"

Don't know. Would assume it all happens in a single (immense) facility with cotton bales in, mainly thread and fabric out. By products of cotton seed oil, seed, hulls, and cake.

I agree it is a small space, but right now it is all I can get away with. It is however, a HUGE improvement over the 2 x 4 space I had for my N scale. I know i should use the space increase to do more with the smaller scale, but a recent score left me with far more HO rolling stock and track than I currently have in N. So I weighed waiting until I had enough N to build against using the HO now and decided that I've been looking at trains in boxes long enough. Lol. Thank you for the explanation of the angles on the switches, that helps a lot. I felt confident in using the 15" curves since I have no plans to run long passenger cars on these sidings, but wasn't 100% sure.
 
Though confused about some descriptions, I will say that, since it is a switching layout I agree; the sharper curves and #-3 or #4 switches are all you need. But make sure you have a track or tracks depicting a connection to neighboring lines in the outer world..Far as folding up goes; this may be quite an albatross to bear.. You will have to remove every car and engine, and all your structures will need to be either securely anchored or also removed when folding it up..Any way to redesign your layout footprint so as to avoid all this ? M
 
Though confused about some descriptions, I will say that, since it is a switching layout I agree; the sharper curves and #-3 or #4 switches are all you need. But make sure you have a track or tracks depicting a connection to neighboring lines in the outer world..Far as folding up goes; this may be quite an albatross to bear.. You will have to remove every car and engine, and all your structures will need to be either securely anchored or also removed when folding it up..Any way to redesign your layout footprint so as to avoid all this ? M

I'm trying to set it up for a mainline that goes to the outerverse, so that covers that. As far as the folding up, that is at present, my only option. The only wall space available is in the living room over the computer desk. That combined with my train-crazed 2.5 year old son.... Yeah. Structures and rolling stock will have to be removed each time. I might be able to space it off the wall enough to leave the buildings on, but they would have to be fairly short. Since I have less than desirable space, I plan to focus on super detailing so it may be best to take them off.
 
I'm trying to set it up for a mainline that goes to the outerverse, so that covers that. As far as the folding up, that is at present, my only option. The only wall space available is in the living room over the computer desk. That combined with my train-crazed 2.5 year old son.... Yeah. Structures and rolling stock will have to be removed each time. I might be able to space it off the wall enough to leave the buildings on, but they would have to be fairly short. Since I have less than desirable space, I plan to focus on super detailing so it may be best to take them off.
My children's Youth in Model Railroading modules were stored, set up and taken down often. After fighting broken, bent, and otherwise mangled scenery for a year, we found it advantageous to just build the layout with a flat top. We then made scenery on flat boards that could be placed onto the flat top. There were two seams on each module but no one seemed to notice or care. We took off the scenery flats and put them into protective boxes for transport. On a side note, the modules were easier to transport too since we could then stack them. I think the same principle might work for a fold up arrangement. Will be easier to fold if nothing is taller than 1" from the surface. You could, of course, go much more detailed.

smalltownsmall.jpg
 
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My children's Youth in Model Railroading modules were stored, set up and taken down often. After fighting broken, bent, and otherwise mangled scenery for a year, we found it advantageous to just build the layout with a flat top. We then made scenery on flat boards that could be placed onto the flat top. There were two seams on each module but no one seemed to notice or care. We took off the scenery flats and put them into protective boxes for transport. On a side note, the modules were easier to transport too since we could then stack them. I think the same principle might work for a fold up arrangement. Will be easier to fold if nothing is taller than 1" from the surface. You could, of course, go much more detailed.

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That's a nice setup. I've given some thought to removable module style scenery. At this point I'll just be happy to get some track laid so I can run some trains. It's going to be a slow process, so but the time I get around to adding scenery details I may have a better space.
 
And another...look at the materials lists on these
 

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Food for thought that might be helpful

This one has potential. The second one looks good but would need to be shortened as it will not fit in the available space. Length is limited to 5'. Width has some flexibility, but probably not much over 4'.
 
Well, If you are interested in loops and not horse shoes. We've had loads of fun with this slightly less than 3' x 5'. With an extra foot in the one direction and a few inches in the other one would really whip it into something cool.
smaloval.jpg
 
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Well, If you are interested in loops and not horse shoes. We've had loads of fun with this slightly less than 3' x 5'. With an extra foot in the one direction and a few inches that other one would really whip it into something cool.
View attachment 29858
This looks like something I could get enjoyment out of. I've been trying to make a plan on SCARM, but it seems like everything I come up with looks too big for the space I'm trying to use or won't line up like I want due to alignment issues. I think those were caused by using the wrong switch/curve combo.
 
Well, If you are interested in loops and not horse shoes. We've had loads of fun with this slightly less than 3' x 5'. With an extra foot in the one direction and a few inches in the other one would really whip it into something cool.
View attachment 29858
C
Well, If you are interested in loops and not horse shoes. We've had loads of fun with this slightly less than 3' x 5'. With an extra foot in the one direction and a few inches in the other one would really whip it into something cool.
View attachment 29858
How can this layout be switched with no siding? Looks like there would have to be cars on both ends of a loco to do any switching.
 
How can this layout be switched with no siding? Looks like there would have to be cars on both ends of a loco to do any switching.
You mean run around track. Think "small layout operation 101" - The loop is the run around.

Plus there is some opportunity for "poling", but "fly" switching doesn't work well on models especially with all the curves.
 
C

How can this layout be switched with no siding? Looks like there would have to be cars on both ends of a loco to do any switching.
You mean run around track. Think "small layout operation 101" - The loop is the run around.

Plus there is some opportunity for "poling", but "fly" switching doesn't work well on models especially with all the curves.
Exactly! On most layouts owned by the spatially challenged, certain 'compromises' must be made. On mine, when long cuts of cars are being pulled, the main becomes part of the yard lead. So be it. Ya does what ya gots to!
 
JESSE - If you limit yourself to 36/40' cars ... I really like that first plan of Gene's.
I think I may go after it myself. Fit right in with my F's, GP-7, and 2-10-0.
 
JESSE - If you limit yourself to 36/40' cars ... I really like that first plan of Gene's.
I think I may go after it myself. Fit right in with my F's, GP-7, and 2-10-0.

If I do build a full 4x5 I think I will. Still thinking about a horseshoe just because of space limitations. Since it will be in a small alcove on the side of the living room, the only way to access the rear of the layout (where the hinge portion would be) is from the front. So unless I build a donut shape, I don't see a way to have a continuous loop, industrial sidings, and the means to reach the back portion for derailments or the possibility of adding scenery. I think I've settled on using gondolas (for scrap metal), covered hoppers (most likely grain and feeds), and boxcars (freight transfer). May be able to sneak in a few flats and tanks, but I don't think I'll have much room for more on this one.
 
In your place, I would try to re-negotiate the real estate deal to get 20 square feet along a wall, rather than a 4x5ft rectangle. You'll hardly have an inch of straight track in that space, and couplers won't work well on tight curves. It's true that you'd have to give up a loop of track, but I don't see a continuous run in that area as being much of an advantage.
 



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