HO Code 100 to code 83 transition


3

35tac

Wayne B
In planning a future code 83 layout, I have thought of using code 100 in my staging yard to cut some expense. I would like some input on issues or preparations I might encounter using code 100 in staging and the transitioning to code 83 for the rest of the layout. My intent would be to use Atlas products et all except for some spurs which would be ME code 70.
Thanks
Wayne
 
IIRC, Walthers sells 100-83 transition track, which is a 6" piece that changes profile. Atlas sells stepped rail joiners (which align the tops of the rails), which should also work for the 83-70 joints as well.
 
There are many fixes. I usually rely on the hard glued ballast for my vertical alignment, and it is durable. I have used tape or cardstock shims, others use regular rail joiners with one end flattened and to which the end of the shorter code rail is soldered, or upon which it merely rests. You can just sand the roadbed so that there is a bit of a vertical drop over a ramp of several inches and make the two rail heights meet at the clearly defined cliff. A disk sander or a sanding block will make a nice ramp for you.
 
100-83 transition

Thanks for the info, so I assume that if I have atleast a 6" transition from the 100 to the 83 I should be in business. I read several places that some code 83 users obtain code 100 for staging. That could be an option unless I decide on visual staging. Thanks for the input.
Wayne
 
If ya stalk ebay a bit at least code 100 rail can be amazingly cheap. Code.83 is newer so it might take a bit longer to round up.

Did I read something about eliminating old tyco large flange wheels before using code 83? That might add a twenty or two to expenses.
 
Old cars with the grossly oversize wheel flanges will have issues on smaller rail. I don't own any of these, so I haven't tried whether they work on Code83 fine or not, but anything modern that is currently offered will run pefectly fine on everything even down to Code55 track (I have done that with no issues). Old Tyco stuff would definitely not work on track like mine.
 
Atlas makes metal code 83-code to code 100 transition rail joiners; if you don't have a local hobby shop, search on eBay. A dozen in a bubble pack cost about $3.00. Walthers transition rail -- ha, $10 for one. I've got a stash of very stiff code 100 n.s. "flex" track that doesn't even flex a little. It came from Sal Marino company about 30 years ago. Perfect for staging yards. Spray with rattle-can flat brown camouflage paint and it looks like the same flavor as Micro flex weathered track. On wards and upwards with good advice.
Bernie Halloran
NYK&W
 
I gotta agree with Bernie. Get you some Atlas transition joiners and save you some money. I have code 100 for all my hidden track, and I used altered regular joiners and a soldering iron to join mine to code 83 and code 70. Saved costs even over the Atlas joiners, that work very well BTW. I've used them on other layouts that I've helped to build.
 
The previous D&J Railroad was all code 100 because most of it was built in the mid to late 80s on a tight budget. The new D&J Railroad from scratch is code 83 throughout the entire layout and I used the salvaged code 100 for the extensive staging and storage yards.
 
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