Glue Atlas Track to Aluminum Roadbed, plastic to metal


B

beiland

Well-Known Member
I'm building my 'connection bridges' between my indoor layout to my exterior helix structure with aluminum channels. I need to glue the atlas track to the aluminum surface of those channels.


I have 2 situations:
a) direct attachment of the atlas plastic ties to the alum surface (no room for any type of roadbed under track)


b) some 'bridges' will allow clearance for a roadbed. I've considered a 1/8 cork, ...but having some doubts about its moisture absorbing possibility?


Suggestions for glue,...or even hot-melt adhesive?


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beiland said:
I'm building my 'connection bridges' between my indoor layout to my exterior helix structure with aluminum channels. I need to glue the atlas track to the aluminum surface of those channels.


I have 2 situations:
a) direct attachment of the atlas plastic ties to the alum surface (no room for any type of roadbed under track)


b) some 'bridges' will allow clearance for a roadbed. I've considered a 1/8 cork, ...but having some doubts about its moisture absorbing possibility?


Suggestions for glue,...or even hot-melt adhesive?


DSCF3804.JPG






DSCF3808.JPG


View attachment 34701
Click to expand...
JB Weld
 
I first thought of Silicone, but remembered a product that I just used on my RV.
It's called "Through the Roof". It is made by SASHCO - this came from ACE hardware ... $7.95in a tube.
It's a clear product, it will stick to anything, and any type of weather will not affect it minus 25 to plus 180 degrees.

 
I'd second the silicon method for adhesion. It would be flexible enough to take some expansion, and contraction.
 
Sirfoldalot said:
I first thought of Silicone, but remembered a product that I just used on my RV.
It's called "Through the Roof". It is made by SASHCO - this came from ACE hardware ... $7.95in a tube.
It's a clear product, it will stick to anything, and any type of weather will not affect it minus 25 to plus 180 degrees.

Click to expand...

How long did that take to set up,....or in other words how long must someone hold things in place before they can release their clamps?
 
beiland said:
How long did that take to set up,....or in other words how long must someone hold things in place before they can release their clamps?
Click to expand...

I'll find out for you and report tomorrow - say 12 hours from now?
Off hand I would venture that it's sticky enough to hold track in place while you make final adjustments.
I would not use silicon if it is going to be subject to the elements, but that's just me.

I'll go try some now and report in AM.
 
I'm backkkk!

OK, I ran a 1/8 bead of the "sticky" on a scrap of wood and pressed another piece of wood down on it.
Comong out of the tube it has the consist. of normal cawlking.
This morning I could pry apart the two woods, but it took a pretty good pull.
Also, I was able to "slide" sideways the woods, but it took a pretty good pull.
i DID NOT USE ANY WEIGHTS OR CLAMPS!

It gives you time to move the track a little if you need to make adjustments, but it is stuck well enough - at this time of 12 hours - to NOT allow the movement without a great deal of force.

I will continue to watch it over time today, tomorrow?
 
OK -- Here we are almost 8 hrs later.
I just checked the "bonding" again. The woods are tightly stuck together. Yes, I can pry them apart with considerable force.
Sideways movement is extremely limited to a fraction of an inch- again with considerable force.
Off hand I will state that by tomorrow morning that there will not be any movement except by crowbar!
 
I read a few of these reviews over on Amazon. I'm not to convinced that this would be a product I might use here,....And it sounds as though it is NOT water based like several of the calk/adhesives that have been recommended on another forum. I'll referenced those soon.
 
I used DAP Alex Plus Acrylic Caulking to lay all my track.

I also used it to secure my Sheet Metal backdrop corners to painted drywall.

3+ years and still solid. I would suggest that this product will work great for securing track to your aluminum pieces too. A thin layer is all you need. It gives a reasonable working time and is easy to remove with a putty knife later.

Bill
Click to expand...


I just used latex caulk to hold the track to both the steel stud and the cement roadbed for the stretch over the fireplace. It is still solid after ten years.
Brent
Click to expand...
 
I ran the DAP idea by my general contractor friend here in town, and he offered what he considers one better caulk,....
Loctite Polyseamseal Adhesive Caulk
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/ps...e-Polyseamseal-All-Purpose-Adhesive-Caulk.htm


  • Loctite Polyseamseal All-Purpose was designed to be a multiple use adhesive and caulk. It can be used for almost any household or remodeling project.
  • Bonds to almost any surface including wood, concrete, metal, ceramic, drywall, plaster, tiles and much more.

...and I like the idea that it is water clean up
 
I didn't know you were planning on smearing it everywhere? I thought you would just lay down a couple beads.

BTW - The woods are very well almost fused together!
 
I appreciate your efforts, but I believe the Locktite product will be a little easier to use, and from my understanding will be very effective. I'll likely use this same adhesive/caulk to glue down the track to its multiple paint coated masonite roadbed in the helix itself.
 
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