Fascia for benchwork


Raincoat2

Raincoat2

Well-Known Member
New to the hobby, been on this forum for several months, asking questions, learning from the experiences railroaders, participating as I can. Got our first build going - benchwork is coming along nicely.

Here's my question: looking at photos and watching videos, I see that most of you add a fascia to the benchwork, probably mostly to give it a finished look. But I notice that most of you also either add another piece around the perimeter of the tops or else have the fascia extend a few inches above the tabletops, mostly to protect from a derailed train falling to the floor. So, 1) what do you use for the fascia or protective piece (wood, Masonite, cardboard, etc etc), and 2) how high above the tabletop do you extend the protection?

Thanks.
Johnny (Raincoat2)
 
I use 1/4" thick Masonite strips. I only extend it above the layout 1 1/4" in areas where the track comes within 2"-3" of the edge of the benchwork. I have been very fortunate to have never needed this feature on the present layout.
I scored all of mine free as drop-off from tabletops at work about 20 years ago, so I can't comment on availability or price.

Willie
 
I used some old masonite paneling I had left over and just painted it green.

IMAG0452.jpg

I kept mine even with te top of the layout. This photo show just about the only place where tracks are at the edge of the layout. Needed to do that to make room for the town and industries, but normally I tried to keep the tracks in the middle or back of the layout so trains would be running through the scenery instead of in front of it.
 
I used 1/8" hardboard, and ran it about 3/8" above the layout level, it bends nicely around curves ..
 
Guys - thank you for the comments so far. this is helpful.

Chet - just noticed for the first time that you have your switch controls mounted in the fascia right in front of the switches they operate. I suppose with a large layout like yours that's a very good and logical way to go. Our layout will have 8-10 switches, and is not nearly that big, so we're still considering a central control panel with a layout template to guide us as we operate. But I do like your approach - and we'll think more about that as we begin laying the track and doing the wiring.
Johnny (Raincoat2)
 
The turnouts in this town are all the old twin coil machines. Mind you, this panel is around 25 years old. I use a "hot probe" to activate the turnouts which is just a test lead I had from an old oscilloscope. I have a brass screw drilled into the control panel diagram for the position I want the turnout to go. All I have to do is touch the probe to the screw head and the switch machine goes to the desired position.
 
CHET = I like that idea of the hot probe. I liked the old twin coil throws. One could do a lot with the extra contacts. I used them to power the frogs.
 
I had seen an article about that system and at the time didn't have a lot of extra money to spend. Cheap and effective. Haven't had to do a single thing to it since it was installed. I'll have to take a photo and post it.
 
montanan said:
I had seen an article about that system and at the time didn't have a lot of extra money to spend. Cheap and effective. Haven't had to do a single thing to it since it was installed. I'll have to take a photo and post it.
Click to expand...

Chet - please do post a photo of the system.
Johnny
 
Here you go Johnny.

IMAG0948.jpg

The panel is hinged at the bottom so it can easily be worked on. Behind it is an old MRC powerpack. I use the AC output to power the twin coil machines. For lights the DC output has been turned down to about 9 volts. The probe is connected to one side of the AC output and when you touch one of the brass screw heads, the circuit is completed changing the position of the turnout.

Cheap and simple.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Chet - Wow - cool setup to work with the twin-coil machines. I'll definitely keep this in mind.
Thanks for sharing.
Johnny
 
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