Cleaning Track


Ericsauto

Well-Known Member
Okay here is probably an old discussion somewhere in this forum but I would like to ask opinions on this.

Question : What do you feel is the "Best" track cleaning method for ho track on a DCC layout?

I am curious on what you cleaners, abrasives, oils, etc you may use. Which ones leave less residue on the track?

I clean mine various ways but with grades it tends to get a bit "slippery" and I have to wait a few days before I run them again.

I use a lot of different methods and I am looking for that one "Good" one.

Thanks guys
 
When it comes to having clean track that stays clean, you might want to try this. It was posted by one of the members of the Model Railroader forum. It worked for me. It's called 'GLEAM'.


QUOTE: (Originally posted by Semafore)

I'm talking GLEAM!: ULTRA_SHINY and Smooth rails can now be had with my 'WHAT box?" approach to this conductivity problem. An HO modeller since 1970, I know the problem WELL!
THIS IS A ONE-TIME PROCESS. DO ALL TRACK!!
1] On an appropiate-sized block, use 400 wet/dry paper to remove the extrusion milling left on the railheads. The block must span both rails.
2] Now use 600 or finer, repeat process.
3] Using an appropiate-sized STAINLESS-STEEL piece, apply moderate pressure and BURNISH the rails! The more you slide back and forth, the smoother and shinier the rails become! [ the GLEAM part ]. This is because you have removed the ridges, bumps, and pits. Burnishing helps seal pores with metal, eliminating traps for dirt and tarnish; almost like a MIRROR!
4] [For Bob H.] Use BLUE MAGIC or equivalent metal polish to deep-clean the remaining contaminates.
5] Last, buff the rails to your eye's content!
The shine is 5x more lusterous than just polish alone. The wax left behind is minimal, is not insulating, and virtually eliminates rail cleaning.
This is a process HOT OFF THE PRESSES! [Of my brain] I've only been at it 6 weeks with amazing results! {I just added the wax step today.} prior to that, though, the NS HO rails I'm guinea-pigging (300') sans wax STILL gleams today, with slight tarnishing, so I'm gonna wax 'em next!
I will also try some classic brass rail to see how that stands up.

AND REMEMBER; NO MORE ABRASIVES...EVER!!!!!!
Or you'll just ruin your mirror finish, and will have to gleam and wax AGAIN!
Dry-wipe with paper towel or cotton. You can always polish anytime; wipe away excess.

I've had DCC and DC locos/lash-ups creep at a scale 3-5MPH around the staging level loop 100' with NO STALL or FAULTER. gotta love it






 
I've not cleaned my layouts in probably 5 years or more. The DC section is brass, the DCC section is nickle-silver. A few weeks ago I went into the train room and fired the layouts up for the first time in about a year. Everything ran smoothly, with no issues.

When I do clean the layouts, I use rubbing alcohol or denatured alky. Dampen a rag, and wipe what I can reach. For the rest of the layouts, I use this guy:

MVC-490F.jpg


MVC-491F.jpg


I just dampen the pad with the alcohol, and run the trains.

Rotor
 
Whatever you do, don't put automatic transmission fluid on the track.

I barely put any on a rag and wiped a little test area. When I ran a steam locomotive through it it about stalled. I had to clean the wheels and rails with Xylene a few times to get it back to normal.

All I do is wipe my rails with denatured alchol, and then burnish them with a flat chunk of pink foam board pushed down the rails.
 
I have been using a combination of Goo Gone and alcohol. ( Been known to drink alcohol while cleaning track :)) .

After I clean it with both then I wipe off residue with a dry micro-fiber cloth. I am still amazed how much grime is still there.

I worry about the Gleam method. Sounds good but I was always told not to use abrasives at all.
 
I worry about the Gleam method. Sounds good but I was always told not to use abrasives at all.
And that's good advice. However, in the GLEAM method the sanding is to help get rid of any projections that are holding dirt. The buffing afterward with the stainless steel flattens the top of the rails and closes up gouges that can hide or collect dirt. You can feel this happening as the stainless steel goes over the track. The gouges and whatnot cause resistance and you can feel the resistance become considerably less and less with each stroke. Some have worried that the film left by the metal polish would inhibit contact and insulate the rails from the locomotive or that the film would inhibit traction. I've found no problems with electrical contact. In fact the contact was improved and was consistent along the entire length of the track (if feeders are attached properly. I attach mine every 6 feet) nor have I had issues with lack of traction. In fact locomotive traction was increased. A train that required two locos could now be pulled by one. I GLEAMED my layout in 2006 and only had to clean my track (aside from a simple wipe with a lint free cloth once in a while or wiping up some plaster dust) only once before I tore the layout down earlier this year. That's one total wipe-down - not even a true cleaning - in 5 years time.
 
If I've done scenery work around the track I use alcohol on a t shirt. Otherwise I use a brite boy. I know some people say you shouldn't use that but I've had no problems so far. If you try goo gone I would clean the rails afterward. It's been my experience in other situations that goo gone leaves an oily residue.
 
I've use Wahl's Hair Cutter (used to be Hair Clipper) oil on an old T-shirt. I simply wipe the track with it, and also use a Q-tip to apply to dirty pickup wheels. On the wheels, I apply track power using one of those wire brush thingies, and touch the lightly oiled
Q-tip, or better, a rubber applicator to the wheels. A few revolutions and the dirt/oxidation is gone. The oil is conductive, so there's no problem with that.
 
The oil is conductive, so there's no problem with that.

No disrespect intended here, but did you measure the oil to see if it was really conductive? Virtually every oil in the world is an insulator, including automatic transmission fluid that people on model railroad forums and articles claim to be "conductive" or "enhances conductivity".

I tested ATF of all types, and it is not only an insulator it also screwed up my most unreliable engine (it has only two wheels for pick up on each rail, and pressure is light). I had to get rid of all trace amounts of ATF before the engine smoothed out.

Stick the probes of your multimeter in it and you can tell just how conductive it is.

Many really light oils will squeeze out of the way with enough pressure, but virtually none are conductive or enhance conductivity. They may slow corrosion or inhibit bonding of trash to the rails, but I've not seen an oil yet that is actually conductive.

I'd sure like to find a contact conductivity enhancer.

Tom
 
No disrespect intended here, but did you measure the oil to see if it was really conductive? Virtually every oil in the world is an insulator, including automatic transmission fluid that people on model railroad forums and articles claim to be "conductive" or "enhances conductivity".

I tested ATF of all types, and it is not only an insulator it also screwed up my most unreliable engine (it has only two wheels for pick up on each rail, and pressure is light). I had to get rid of all trace amounts of ATF before the engine smoothed out.

Stick the probes of your multimeter in it and you can tell just how conductive it is.

Many really light oils will squeeze out of the way with enough pressure, but virtually none are conductive or enhance conductivity. They may slow corrosion or inhibit bonding of trash to the rails, but I've not seen an oil yet that is actually conductive.

I'd sure like to find a contact conductivity enhancer.

Tom

Well, I have NOT measured the conductivity of Wahl's Hair Clipper Oil. I only know that it works well as a cleaning agent, and has never given me any problems with running my trains in the past 30-odd years or so. Your mileage may vary.
 
I've used almost every type of car and every type of cleaner and every type of abrasive pad over the years and each has its pro's and con's.
Never tried the gleam method, first time I heard of it was from Jeffery.
Goo gone works great but you need to wipe the rails later with 99% alcohol as mentioned.
Guys have used Wahl oil for decades and swear by it, I didn't have the same luck as I found dust tended to stick to it.
I tried auto trans fluid but after awhile had to wipe the buildup off, also as mentioned.
Walthers bright boy is a variation of an abrasive contact cleaning block that works great but is hard to get into tight areas. The "real" blocks used by electrical companies are very pricey.
A masonite pad mounted under a boxcar works good also but needs to be sanded down after a while as it builds up gunk.
I had a track cleaning car with a wiper on the bottom that tended to leave little strands of fibres on rail joints and switch points.


Right now I'm using track cleaner and conditioner ACT6006 by Aerocar Lubricants with a Centerline track cleaning car and following it up later on with a couple of the new Bachman track cleaning tank cars and getting great results!

Aerocar Lubricants: http://www.aerocarlubricants.com/
Centerline: http://www.centerline-products.com/
Bachman cars: http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/products.php?act=viewProd&productId=3371
 
And that's good advice. However, in the GLEAM method the sanding is to help get rid of any projections that are holding dirt. The buffing afterward with the stainless steel flattens the top of the rails and closes up gouges that can hide or collect dirt. You can feel this happening as the stainless steel goes over the track. The gouges and whatnot cause resistance and you can feel the resistance become considerably less and less with each stroke. Some have worried that the film left by the metal polish would inhibit contact and insulate the rails from the locomotive or that the film would inhibit traction. I've found no problems with electrical contact. In fact the contact was improved and was consistent along the entire length of the track (if feeders are attached properly. I attach mine every 6 feet) nor have I had issues with lack of traction. In fact locomotive traction was increased. A train that required two locos could now be pulled by one. I GLEAMED my layout in 2006 and only had to clean my track (aside from a simple wipe with a lint free cloth once in a while or wiping up some plaster dust) only once before I tore the layout down earlier this year. That's one total wipe-down - not even a true cleaning - in 5 years time.

Where could one buy a block of stainless steel?

I'd like to give it a try.
 
Where could one buy a block of stainless steel?

I'd like to give it a try.

You can get stainless steel washers at your local hardware store. You need it to be big enough to span both rails. Get the real stainless steel ones not the ones that are stainless steel plated. I use the handle of an old stainless steel spoon myself. It's much easier for me to hang onto.
 
You can get stainless steel washers at your local hardware store. You need it to be big enough to span both rails. Get the real stainless steel ones not the ones that are stainless steel plated. I use the handle of an old stainless steel spoon myself. It's much easier for me to hang onto.

Thanks. Never thought of that.

Cheers
 



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