Brick Factory, brick making

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beiland

Well-Known Member
#1
A number of years ago I saw this image in an older magazine, and it so inspired me that I knew I had to make all efforts to include something like this on my new layout








This was my initial efforts to put that scene on my plan.
http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/...per-templates-of-trackplan.30958/#post-446924
(full size paper templates)


I am currently having to re-plan this scene due to a number of problems that have popped up.


What I need help with is identifying the major raw materials needed for brick making, and the stowage (tanks) I should try to provide space for as I try to rearrange things??
 
#4
I'm drawing from my memories of Sioux City Brick and Tile. My father would take me with him when he went to pick a load of bricks. The things I remember most: the office was just a small clapboard building. The drying / mixing shed was the biggest building, two stories high and made of brick (no surprise). There were lots and lots of bee hive kilns. There was a smaller brick warehouse building, one story, where the bricks were stored pending shipment. The whole property was along the Milwaukee tracks with a double ended siding servicing the business. They also had their own narrow gauge (2') railroad that took materials to the mixing shed, from the shed to the kilns, and from the kilns to the warehouse. It was a rather spread out operation. My guess is the reason for that is the property was long and narrow, tucked in between the river and the bluffs.
 
#5
Just trying to imagine

Several days ago I got in the mail a Water Street Freight Terminal kit (all those kits I have, and I didn't have this one ??). I fail to understand yet how the footprint of this building is at least 3” longer than the dimensions given by Walthers, and on the packaging??

This extra length of the actual structure is one more negative strike against the use of this kit. I think I will just have to use this structure over in the center peninsula port warehouse area.


I went back to the idea of using the P2K Moore & Co structure and placed the base pieces here,...quicky mock-up,...now with maybe only 3 kilns?? (that lone 4th one down at the end is now not a consideration)













(That recessed area out front is where my estate sale water front scene sits in)



To tell the truth I'm not real happy with using this structure for my 'brick works'. I think the 'office portion' is just too big??

If I get time today I'm going to look at the Suydam kit with maybe a brick face on it??
 
#6
That Suydam kit is way too big as well, both in width and length. I'd have to cut it down and modify the window and door openings. I've never played with these kits so I kind of wonder how ones goes about cutting that corrugated metal 'neatly'?
 
#7
Two ways come to mind. Get larger diameter cut-off discs for your moto-tool.. 1½" and 2" are available. This will give you more clearance between the tool and the tin, so you can have better control. Just be careful and take it easy.

The second is tin snips. I use jewelers lightweight metal snips. If you go this route, get a quality German-made pair. It's
worth the few extra bucks and stays sharp through a lot of usage. Here's a link:
https://contenti.com/shears/hand-shears/lightweight-metal-snips
Although I have used the large aviation-style snips, they are a little clumsy and less accurate, so you have to be very careful when following a line. The downside of using snips is that it will flatten out the corrugation, so you'll have to reshape it after making the cuts.
 



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