Im brand new to this and i was wanting to know what the difference in a dcc setup and a nondcc setup to wire your model is. What do you need to wire a nondcc setup and what does a dcc setup require. Ive been looking on a few product sites but havent found one that really answers this question.
brand new to this.
- Thread starter spearssw1
- Start date
Welcome to RRF - I was a staunch non-DCC guy for a looong time, especially after alot of problems our Digitrax system had at our large club. After seeing the MRC system at work on another layout and how easy it was I was hooked.
Its simple as running a set of bus wires and feeder wires to the track - I did so on every section - that limits electical problems - plus every track joint is soldered. The only thing to be careful for is if you have a reversing section (i dont) then you need to add in a component to handle that and gap the rails accordingly. The MRC Prodigy system is in place and I wired a total of 6 CAT 5 plug ins and cover plates on the fascia. I bought the materials at Home Depot and did it myself instead of paying the big bucks for the ready made brand name materials. This required some delicate wiring as you can imagine with phone wiring.
A larger layout may require a booster - just depends on your arrangement. I have a total of 6 throttles and can have all 6 running with no real issues.
Good luck!
Its simple as running a set of bus wires and feeder wires to the track - I did so on every section - that limits electical problems - plus every track joint is soldered. The only thing to be careful for is if you have a reversing section (i dont) then you need to add in a component to handle that and gap the rails accordingly. The MRC Prodigy system is in place and I wired a total of 6 CAT 5 plug ins and cover plates on the fascia. I bought the materials at Home Depot and did it myself instead of paying the big bucks for the ready made brand name materials. This required some delicate wiring as you can imagine with phone wiring.
A larger layout may require a booster - just depends on your arrangement. I have a total of 6 throttles and can have all 6 running with no real issues.
Good luck!
RW&C
N Scale with Stone Tools
DCC is a digital system to run trains; DC is simple direct current (like you get from a battery).
The difference, as far as hooking them up, is in where the complexity lies.
For a DC setup, if you're running more than one train, you have to set up power blocks. This means a control panel with a bunch of little toggle switches on it between the power pack and the tracks. Hooking up the engines, however, is dead simple: both sides connect to the lights and the motor.
DCC is the opposite. You can connect the control station to the tracks directly. You don't need any power blocks unless you incorporate a reverse loop. It's plug and play. The engines, however, are a different story. You have to install DCC decoders in them (some come equipped, some just plug in, others you have to do some soldering) and tweak their programming a bit (not as hard as it sounds). The cab itself is rather complex but you don't have to do much to it. (And the manual walks you through what you need to do to work it.)
Where DCC really trumps DC is in features and ease of use. Sure, DC is simple, but DCC can turn on headlights, run ditch lights, do strobes, control sound systems, and run two trains, independently, on the same track, without the operators having to mess with toggle switches or fancy wiring.
DC is simple. You need a power pack (Model Rectifier Corp makes a good pack, as I'm sure do others) and the wire to hook it to the tracks. If you want to do power blocks (for multiple trains), you'll need a few toggle switches, some insulated rail joiners, and probably another power pack or two to run your other blocks. Almost all engines (even DCC'd ones) will run on DC. (DCC decoders are programmed to run on DC, but they aren't too good at it. Using a DC pack to run a DCC engine is a little like taking a Bugatti out to get groceries: it'll sort of work, but it's not really where it shines.)
For DCC, you need a DCC starter kit (usually a handheld, a base unit, and a power supply), and DCC-equipped engines. If you're doing a really big layout you may need a booster or two.
If you're running one engine around, and that's all you really need to do, DC will do just fine. If you want sound, lights, other people operating other trains with you, and a host of other stuff (you can even control switches remotely), go for DCC.
Bachmann makes a DCC system called the e-z command. It's cheap, but low on features and while it'll run a DCC engine, it can't reprogram them (which is actually rather important).
If you decide to go DCC, don't cheap out. Get a decent setup and it'll work much better for you. I've got an MRC Prodigy Express which seems to work rather nicely.
The difference, as far as hooking them up, is in where the complexity lies.
For a DC setup, if you're running more than one train, you have to set up power blocks. This means a control panel with a bunch of little toggle switches on it between the power pack and the tracks. Hooking up the engines, however, is dead simple: both sides connect to the lights and the motor.
DCC is the opposite. You can connect the control station to the tracks directly. You don't need any power blocks unless you incorporate a reverse loop. It's plug and play. The engines, however, are a different story. You have to install DCC decoders in them (some come equipped, some just plug in, others you have to do some soldering) and tweak their programming a bit (not as hard as it sounds). The cab itself is rather complex but you don't have to do much to it. (And the manual walks you through what you need to do to work it.)
Where DCC really trumps DC is in features and ease of use. Sure, DC is simple, but DCC can turn on headlights, run ditch lights, do strobes, control sound systems, and run two trains, independently, on the same track, without the operators having to mess with toggle switches or fancy wiring.
DC is simple. You need a power pack (Model Rectifier Corp makes a good pack, as I'm sure do others) and the wire to hook it to the tracks. If you want to do power blocks (for multiple trains), you'll need a few toggle switches, some insulated rail joiners, and probably another power pack or two to run your other blocks. Almost all engines (even DCC'd ones) will run on DC. (DCC decoders are programmed to run on DC, but they aren't too good at it. Using a DC pack to run a DCC engine is a little like taking a Bugatti out to get groceries: it'll sort of work, but it's not really where it shines.)
For DCC, you need a DCC starter kit (usually a handheld, a base unit, and a power supply), and DCC-equipped engines. If you're doing a really big layout you may need a booster or two.
If you're running one engine around, and that's all you really need to do, DC will do just fine. If you want sound, lights, other people operating other trains with you, and a host of other stuff (you can even control switches remotely), go for DCC.
Bachmann makes a DCC system called the e-z command. It's cheap, but low on features and while it'll run a DCC engine, it can't reprogram them (which is actually rather important).
If you decide to go DCC, don't cheap out. Get a decent setup and it'll work much better for you. I've got an MRC Prodigy Express which seems to work rather nicely.