Best way to flatten warped walls


Raincoat2

Well-Known Member
Probably the kind of question that's been asked and answered a million times - - I've got a couple of walls from a structure kit that are slightly bowed. I can think of a hundred ways to flatten them, but wanted to know what you have tried and what works (and what doesn't).
 
Wet them with alcohol and put them under some heavy books on a flat surface. I have a sheet of tempered glass I use. I also brace walls with 3/8" square basswood. The more window openings you have the more warping is possible.
 
I have used a scale lumber 4" x 12" or similar, cut as long as possible, and glued edgewise with superglue (gorilla), up against the warped area. One on the bottom and one on top, or one in the center if it doesn't interfere with doors and windows, etc.

I hold the piece in place for a minute or so and that is usually enough time for the glue to stick. Glue used sparingly so as not to bleed through and/or to facilitate a fast bond. Works on styrene, cardboard, or wood veneer.
 
Good ideas, guys. Thanks. I put mine out in the sun last evening, with a piece of steel to hold them flat. Worked okay, but needs more, so will wait for Saturday and put them out for a few hours. Will let you know how it works.
 
I like the idea of using two panes of glass, covered with something to keep the light from getting to the plastic. I think the idea is to let it all cool before 'checking' and lifting the item. I'd put it out in the late afternoon so it won't get so hot, and then peek early the next morning before the sun gets too high. Too hot and you'll lose details.
 
Guys, thanks for all the tips and experiences. I put mine in the sun a couple of times, no panes of glass, just a bar of steel to hold them flat. By the way, these weren't TOO warped, just enough to be noticeable. The heat from the sun did help flatten them out to where they were usable, but when I put the walls together on the base, I they were just curved IN enough that the room wouldn't go on right. So I cut a piece of wood, about the thickness of a pencil, and ran it from side to side, just enough to push the bow in the walls OUT. Worked perfectly. The roof is on, and between that and the base that came with the kit, that should hold the walls in place for good.
Thanks again.
 
I use internal bracing -- plastic or wood -- to straighten out bowed walls. It's good use for leftover plastic "trees" from structure kits.

- Jeff
 
How about for styrene? I have a couple of roof panels that are to be joined at the peak. The ridge would have a gap in it if I left them as is. I have tried laying them in a pot of boiling water. They straighten out, but then bow back again. I have a heat gun, but would have to be extremely careful as that sucker gets HOT.

The inside angle precludes any kind of bracing.
 
ATTENTION JAZZDAD!!! Put down the heat gun and step away from the model! A heat gun gets very hot and you could ruin your model in the blink of an eye. What looks good one second can go horribly bad the next second. There's got to be a better way.
 
Can you glue a strip to one half of the roof, even if it's just a short piece or two, to glue the other piece to? It wouldn't have to be a continuous strip, just something that the other piece could be glued to that would hold the two together?
 
Jazz Dad == Sounds as if you need a Ridge Pole with the proper angle - like BoB is referring too?
I can make you one out of Oak if you give me the length you need and the angle - the end view will look like a triangle.
PM me with the details and your address - I hope it will fit into a business envelope?
 
Thanks for the offer, Sherrel. I have ground down the panels into a straight(ish) line. This corrected the warp and brought the eave in line where is should be. I will cover the ridge with a strip of copper. (The grind wasn't 100% accurate.) Once done, I will post a photo.
 



Back
Top