Basic soldering


G

Graham Line

Member
Noticed a self-confessed newcomer in another thread confessing that his soldering skills weren't up to his standards -- so he was avoiding some projects.

I'm not a trained solderer (if that's a word) but most of my soldering jobs hold together in the long run.

Everyone has their own techniques. Soldering for electronics and electrical connections is different, and I hope some experienced people will add their own tips.

My suggestions for track:
  • Start with a 40 watt iron and a base that lets you dial the heat level up and down. With a few experiments, you will find the setting that works for your combination of solder and track.
  • Soldering guns are too big for track work and hard to handle in tight places.
  • Buy a name brand iron with a supply of interchangeable tips. I use a chisel tip for soldering rail and a conical tip for electrical connections.
  • Keep the soldering iron tip clean. If it overheats, it will erode. If cooled solder builds up, it will be hard to get a good joint.
  • Use silver-bearing or 60-40 rosin core solder for rail. Acid-core solder doesn't have a place in the train room. I'm using a silver-bearing rosin core solder right now that flows well and gives some extra strength to joints like switch points that can face some stress.
  • I keep some soldering paste (flux) around for more difficult jobs like built-up switch frogs, where the solder really needs to penetrate.
  • Clean up the joint. I use a brass brush and occasionally files to get rid of ugly globs on an otherwise good joint. Cleaning up the joint helps to get rid of flux that can cause problems later on.
 
Pre tin the wire before bringing it into the solder point.
On active duty, my techs would usually quote, "The bigger the blob the better the job". I don't think they ever caught on to the link between that and having to sweep down the entire tech repair shop.
 
I beg to differ with the comment that soldering guns are too big for track work. I have a Weller 140/100 dual watt gun I use all the time for track work. I use it at the 140 setting. I apply flux to the joint, pre-tin the wire, and hold the wire against the rail with a scrap piece of wood. I place the tip on top of the rail, pull the trigger, and the joint is soldered quickly before the ties have a chance to heat up. I love it. I used to use a 40 watt iron and was constantly melting ties.
 
To anyone just starting out or having difficulty getting used to soldering different thicknesses. Keep the lids of a few tin cans (not aluminum) to practice on. They will already have a tinned surface. Cut some strips from a couple to simulate tabs and practice soldering wires to them. I always apply a spot of rosin flux paste with the tip of a toothpick to the spot to be soldered. Use a whole tin lid to get to appreciate how bulkier pieces of metal will absorb heat and how you need to concentrate heat from the iron on that bulkier part in order to solder wires to it. Also useful for tinning the tips. As you improve, turn up the heat if a controlled temp iron, because you will find a soldered joint on fine work will work much better that way than a low temp requiring the holding of the tip on longer. Practice on something like this that is not essential or damagable will boost confidence.
 
I also cab't agree with soldering guns being to big for track work. I used a Weller Gun for my HO track work and, although cumbersome, it did the job well. Now I use a Hakko FX888 system which is much better.

From my point of view the important things to remember about soldering are:

1. tin your work first
2. use an appropriate sized head
3. use a good temperature
4. use the appropriate sized solder
5. use a "touch" of flex paste whether the solder is rosin core or not.

Most importantly though,

1. keep your head/tip "clean" as well as the area you are soldering to.
 
Some very good points. I have probably done more soldering that I want to admit to. I worked on the radars and computers for the guided missile system aboard ship when I was service. We were always doing some soldering on something. We did have to teach younger guys how to solder properly and the points you brought up are right on. Keeping the tip clean is one of the most important things. I usually kept a small mill file handy to clean off the tip before heating the iron up to tin the tip. Another item I kept handy was an old sponge that I would moisten up and wipe the tip off after soldering.

One thing not to do is to set the soldering iron down on the table with the tip hanging over the side of the table and forget that you did and walk up to the table and lean over. One of the strikers did and I will say that I don't think I ever heard such a noise come out of a human being quite kike that.

He never lived that one down.
 
When you want to get the lead out of your pencil, a soldering iron is not ususually the first choice.
 
I also disagree about soldering guns being unacceptable for soldering track together. Every joint of my track work was soldered together with my Weller Soldering Gun and in-fact, I would say that a Soldering Gun is the best choice for soldering track work. I have done many different types of soldering, brazing and torch welding. When I started silver soldering parts together at the place I was working I was lucky enough to be working with my Dad's supervision and he told me to understand that: "Solder flows to the heat"! If you keep in mind how important heat is to the joint, you will be successful: not only to the solder; but, to the metals you want to join. I have also found that if the metals involved in the joint are "Bare Metal" clean, flux may not be necessary; but, can't hurt the joint, also. Acid Flux is generally not needed for Model Railroad use and in fact, if not neutralized, will be harmful to the joint, so neutralize and clean it up!
 
Rosin core solder is used for electronics. Acid core or acid flux is used to plumbing. Acid flux can damage electronics.
 
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