Badger Modelflex Acrylic Paint...

[goscrewyourselves]

I have some Badger Modelflex Paint that I absolutely love. Badger states that the paint dries within 5 minutes if you apply heat or 15 minutes without heat. They also say that you can begin detailing what you have painted after 15 minutes of spraying.

I'm not doubting what they say per se; however, I'd like to hear from you guys who use it how long you wait until you start masking and spraying another color. Most paints I have dealt with recommend waiting 24 hours so 15 minutes does seem very quick.

 

[deanej]

I too love Badger Modelflex. Due to solvent allergies, I had to find a non-solvent paint and after trying several decided this was the best one. Close to handling like the old Floquil solvent. Cleans out of the airbrush very nicely.

But, to your question at hand, I don't have a feel yet for any masking issues by going too soon, but I wouldn't hesitate to follow their claims. I think the variable would be how thick the first coat is. Airbrushed carefully, it does indeed dry fast, but if one builds up the thickness to get the color depth, I'd probably go with at least 24 hours in that case.

A fine super detailed engine would certainly call for erroring on the side of abundant caution.

 

[goscrewyourselves]

deanej,

Thank you and this is the first time I have used Badger Modelflex but I am very impressed with how it flows and the depth of color that it provides. This is the first acrylic paint that I have been able to/willing to spray straight from the bottle as well. Your right about it cleaning up very well also. I spray a color, drop a bit of acetone in the gun, shake it around then spray it out. Clean the bowl out with a paper towel and spray a little more acetone through it and it's done. Much easier than anything else I have used.

Okay, so to the point - I spray fairly lightly and used a hair drier as Badger recommends so I think (based on what Badger states) I should be good to go ahead and do the next color. While I am trying to get this as perfect as I can, being my first attempt at painting an engine, I am also using it as a learning process. If things do go wrong, into the alcohol it goes and I start again. Hopefully I wont have to do that though.

 

[deanej]

I'm unable to use acetone due to the allergy, but it is certainly a great cleaner. I have found that the non-toxic airbrush cleaners such as Badgers, and the kind you find at the art stores actually work at least as well as acetone. Surprised me. I use an Iwata and run it under the faucet to clean all of the visible paint out, then put some of the commercial cleaner in the cup and spray it through. A couple of times of that and I can leave the unit for "cleaned". With other paints, I usually had to disassemble the unit to get it clean, not so with Modelflex.

 

[goscrewyourselves]

Thanks for the cleaning tip. With Model Master paint, what I used to use till now, I used Testors thinner and cleaners and they did an alright job. I found the acetone works quicker and more thoroughly with the Modelflex though. Might just be my imagination as well.

Running the gun under water is something I hadn't considered either but will give that a go as well. I hate pulling an airbrush apart, the last one I disassembled (a Paasche) I couldn't get back together so I am a bit anal when it comes to keeping them as clean as possible.

 

[deanej]

No question, acetone probably cleans things better than any alternative. I'm forced to the alternatives and thankful I found that they can work good. I do keep a small bottle of acetone to dip a brush in for a final cleaning, but I hold it in the paint booth and carefully don't take a breath while it's open.

Years ago, I airbrushed so much Floquil, you could probably paint the Space Shuttle with that amount. No protection. That's probably what caused my allergies to develop.