New to HO. Bought an Athearn GP35 that did not run. I am somewhat mechanical and electrically capable. Disassembled loco, cleaned and applied lube to all needed areas. Without the shell, it runs nicely. Put the shell on and nothing. Measured the dia of flywheels, 18.97mm, meas inside dim of shell, 18.31mm. It is no wonder it will not operate with the shell installed!! Has anyone else noticed this issue?? Interesting!
Athearn, old 1950's GP35 shell interference
- Thread starter Terry
- Start date
Sounds like you have an older frame/motor combination with the iron ring motor and steel flywheels. A switch to the newer, gold-colored motor and brass flywheels should solve your issue.
Also, there are two different incarnations of Athearn GP35. The first one is a wider-than-scale version to accomodate the limitations of the drives of that era (circa 1966), the second features a scale width body and much more details.
Also, there are two different incarnations of Athearn GP35. The first one is a wider-than-scale version to accomodate the limitations of the drives of that era (circa 1966), the second features a scale width body and much more details.
Here's what the newer, Ready to Roll, DC/DCC quick plug equipped Athearn GP35's look like inside, first the assembled loco with wire grabs fitted, extra details and plastic (Celcon) closer to scale handrails
2nd pic, with the shell removed, which is only secured to the frame by the couplers at each end, passing through rectangular holes in the pilots.
The electrical board mounted onto the top of the motor by a metal clip, gives not only directional lighting, but also the avalablity to install a DCC decoder (silent) via 8 pin, or 9 pin sockets. 8 pin socket is in the board itself and the 9 pin fits into that plug on the ends of the wires coing out of the board. All in all a much better proposition all around.
More pics if needed.
2nd pic, with the shell removed, which is only secured to the frame by the couplers at each end, passing through rectangular holes in the pilots.
The electrical board mounted onto the top of the motor by a metal clip, gives not only directional lighting, but also the avalablity to install a DCC decoder (silent) via 8 pin, or 9 pin sockets. 8 pin socket is in the board itself and the 9 pin fits into that plug on the ends of the wires coing out of the board. All in all a much better proposition all around.
More pics if needed.
As an indication of the age of the model I have shown, this one was announced in 2006, so on sale in either '06 or '07. The date on the picture in my files is 2012, so it was 5-6 years old then. I still have it. It was bought new in the box, (I still have that too 
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)Make sure the plastic motor mounts are connected to the motor correctly and that the motor is seated firmly into the frame. Turn it upside down and you should be able to see the four white plastic nubs engaging the frame. if the motor is cocked even slightly, you'll get interference.
