Air Brushing and weathering using an air compressor?
- Thread starter ryanrev
- Start date
Smoke
Southern Railway lives on
It's actually better to get one from Home depot or Lowe's. The hobby compressors are usually more, and have less air storage. I would recommend getting one from Home Depot rather than the Badger one.
-Smoke
For all practical purposes in this application air is air, and in fact bigger may well be better, since the tank would allow for more air and possibly less pressure fluctuation, though that will depend on the compressor. On the other hand, the smaller ones are often quieter and easier to store. While I'm sure a full size gas station one would work (and be massive overkill), I'm not sure if you want that "Orange County Choppers" ambience in the layout room.
I'm not an expert on air brushing, but from what I've heard from folks that are, what is important is getting a good filter on the line. Often compressed air is also moist air, and that's not good for painting. They make filters that trap water and oil before it gets to your airbrush and causes problems. No matter what compressor you use, a good filter will help.
I'm not an expert on air brushing, but from what I've heard from folks that are, what is important is getting a good filter on the line. Often compressed air is also moist air, and that's not good for painting. They make filters that trap water and oil before it gets to your airbrush and causes problems. No matter what compressor you use, a good filter will help.
I got mine at a my hardware store. I has a 1 gallon storage tank, which makes it nicer to use then the small hobby compressors. When I was a teenager, I used my Dad's old 5 gallon compressor. It was loud filling up but for air brushing it lasted forever. Just make sure you have a pressure regulator and also a moister trap.
wheeler1963
Aurora & Portland Owner
Just a question about air pressure here. My old (21 year) hobby compressor is about to die. If I were to use the big air compressor in the garage, what air pressure should it be set at to air brush?
Red Oak & Western
Active Member
The air pressure depends on the paint/mix you are using. Pressure settings can run anywhere from 10-15 psi up to 35-40 psi. You can check on the paint manufacturers' web sites for recommended pressure and thinning rates.
If you use a large compressor, far away from your modeling workshop, I would recommend using two regulators: one at the compressor, set to 50 psi, and another near the airbrush, to adjust as you work. You really don't want to run back and forth to do minor adjustments (VOE).
If you use a large compressor, far away from your modeling workshop, I would recommend using two regulators: one at the compressor, set to 50 psi, and another near the airbrush, to adjust as you work. You really don't want to run back and forth to do minor adjustments (VOE).
wheeler1963
Aurora & Portland Owner
Red Oak, thank you for that info. I've been airbrushing with this small compressor for years and never even knew what pressures I was running. I think I'll head up to Lowes and buy some air fittings and try to adapt my airbrush to the big compressor.
Steve B
Firefighter
Well i have two types, i have a 15 litre tank with a rotary vane compressor, this holds enough air to paint a million models, as the air isside does not get hot very little condenses into moisture and it does not go up the airline. but on the down side it's a bugger to store in a small place. my latest one is tiny, it's a piston compressor connected to a moisture trap but no reservoir, as for noise you can hardly hear it. the only isue i have found is this, when it's used for long periods of time it gets hot, and the garage is quite cold at times,,, this results in moisture forming in the coiled hose as the air inside condenses.
if the compressor is level with my worktable the coiled hose collects moisture and it starts to spit out spoiling the work, If the compressor is on the floor so the hose is vertical the moisture runs downhill into the moisture trap and can be expelled.
hope this makes sense
if the compressor is level with my worktable the coiled hose collects moisture and it starts to spit out spoiling the work, If the compressor is on the floor so the hose is vertical the moisture runs downhill into the moisture trap and can be expelled.
hope this makes sense
Red Oak & Western
Active Member
Ryan -
That looks like a great first project. Check out some of the other threads here, especially on removing old paint if you're not starting with an undecorated shell. Then remember: clean, prime, and then paint. There is also a thread on masking with some good tips. And then there's the decaling and the weathering and the .......
That looks like a great first project. Check out some of the other threads here, especially on removing old paint if you're not starting with an undecorated shell. Then remember: clean, prime, and then paint. There is also a thread on masking with some good tips. And then there's the decaling and the weathering and the .......
Red Oak & Western
Active Member
I thought I'd add a few more comments for those that are not familiar with compressors. There are 3 main features:
single stage versus two stage
oilless versus oil lubricated
tankless versus storage tank
In a single stage compressor, the air passes through the cylinder only once. A single stage compressor may have 1, 2, or more cylinders. The number of cylinders affects the volume of air produced (we'll talk about that later). In a two stage compressor, the air is compressed once in the first cylinder, then the compressed air is passed into a second cylinder where it is compressed again. This results in higher pressure. Two stage compressors always have pairs of cylinders, usually one or two pairs.
An oilless compressor has the cylinder and cylinder wall coated with Teflon. In an oil lubricated compressor, the cylinder has rings (that same as an automobile engine) and oil is introduced to the base of the cylinder to reduce friction. An oil lubricated compressor has a longer life expectancy than an oilless compressor. They also run quieter, usually quite a bit quieter. However, very small amounts of oil escape into the compressed air. Not usually a problem in commercial applications, where most tools require oil lubrication. But for painting applications, the air must be filtered.
The addition of a tank to the compressor serves two functions: first and foremost, it extends the life of the compressor by lowering the duty cycle. It does not increase either the volume or pressure delivered by the compressor. Secondly, it smoothes the delivery of the air. It a tankless compressor, the air is delivered in small (very rapid) puffs. Normally this is not a problem, but some artists fine it affects detail work.
When we say "compressor", we are typically referring to the complete unit: motor, compressor, and tank (if included). A compressor can consist of any combination of the above features, e.g. a two stage, oil lubricated compressor with a 60 gallon tank or a tankless, oilless, single stage compressor.
Compressors have two "ratings", the maximum pressure delivered, expressed in p.s.i (pounds per square inch) and the maximum volume available, expressed in s.c.f.m. or c.f.m. (standard cubic feet per minute). A compressor will typically list two ratings, such as 3.5 cfm @ 90 psi and 5.0 cfm @ 40 psi. The reason for these two ratings is that most commercial and shop tools run at either 40 or 90 p.s.i. Airbrushes rarely need over 50 p.s.i. (remember, the type of paint, it's dilution, and the effect desired determine the pressure) and consume between 0.25 and 0.5 s.c.f.m. If it helps, think of the p.s.i. rating as similar to voltage and the c.f.m. as similar to current.
Hope this helps.
single stage versus two stage
oilless versus oil lubricated
tankless versus storage tank
In a single stage compressor, the air passes through the cylinder only once. A single stage compressor may have 1, 2, or more cylinders. The number of cylinders affects the volume of air produced (we'll talk about that later). In a two stage compressor, the air is compressed once in the first cylinder, then the compressed air is passed into a second cylinder where it is compressed again. This results in higher pressure. Two stage compressors always have pairs of cylinders, usually one or two pairs.
An oilless compressor has the cylinder and cylinder wall coated with Teflon. In an oil lubricated compressor, the cylinder has rings (that same as an automobile engine) and oil is introduced to the base of the cylinder to reduce friction. An oil lubricated compressor has a longer life expectancy than an oilless compressor. They also run quieter, usually quite a bit quieter. However, very small amounts of oil escape into the compressed air. Not usually a problem in commercial applications, where most tools require oil lubrication. But for painting applications, the air must be filtered.
The addition of a tank to the compressor serves two functions: first and foremost, it extends the life of the compressor by lowering the duty cycle. It does not increase either the volume or pressure delivered by the compressor. Secondly, it smoothes the delivery of the air. It a tankless compressor, the air is delivered in small (very rapid) puffs. Normally this is not a problem, but some artists fine it affects detail work.
When we say "compressor", we are typically referring to the complete unit: motor, compressor, and tank (if included). A compressor can consist of any combination of the above features, e.g. a two stage, oil lubricated compressor with a 60 gallon tank or a tankless, oilless, single stage compressor.
Compressors have two "ratings", the maximum pressure delivered, expressed in p.s.i (pounds per square inch) and the maximum volume available, expressed in s.c.f.m. or c.f.m. (standard cubic feet per minute). A compressor will typically list two ratings, such as 3.5 cfm @ 90 psi and 5.0 cfm @ 40 psi. The reason for these two ratings is that most commercial and shop tools run at either 40 or 90 p.s.i. Airbrushes rarely need over 50 p.s.i. (remember, the type of paint, it's dilution, and the effect desired determine the pressure) and consume between 0.25 and 0.5 s.c.f.m. If it helps, think of the p.s.i. rating as similar to voltage and the c.f.m. as similar to current.
Hope this helps.
mikeknuckey
Far away in Chile...
I got an EX refrigerator engine. I add an Air filter and oil filter in the line to the airbrush. It works great!!! Enough pressure for my fine airbrush, and it cost me just US$20 plus another $5 of pipes and filters... And It didnt make noise...
Alcomotive
Grandson of an ALCO Builder
Wow! great topic!
I have a Sears vertical compressor. 150 psi / 6hp / 30 gal / oil-free / single cylinder / 120volt/15 amp (8.6scfm @40psi)(6.4scfm@90psi) I think I will be using that and just buy the accessories and airbrush.
I talked with a few guys about filtering systems I found that this method is very good. I like the use of cheap filters....toilet paper!
http://www.spraygunworld.com/products/MotorGuard/Motorguard M30.htm
http://www.tptools.com/p/74,110_1and2-Coalescing-Air-Filter.html
http://www.motorguard.com/air_2_2.html
a paint guide....
http://books.google.com/books?id=Tr...hl=en&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=10&ct=result
I will be getting this locally not this name brand but very similar from my automotive speed shop. Also adding a 2nd regulator towards then of the hose is a good idea. Setting the main one to 50psi the regulating the 2nd one to your specs for th paint you use.
I must say you guys are creating a monster here! LOL I cant wait to get set up and try my hand at airbrushing. I am still looking at various air brushes.
I have a Sears vertical compressor. 150 psi / 6hp / 30 gal / oil-free / single cylinder / 120volt/15 amp (8.6scfm @40psi)(6.4scfm@90psi) I think I will be using that and just buy the accessories and airbrush.
I talked with a few guys about filtering systems I found that this method is very good. I like the use of cheap filters....toilet paper!
http://www.spraygunworld.com/products/MotorGuard/Motorguard M30.htm
http://www.tptools.com/p/74,110_1and2-Coalescing-Air-Filter.html
http://www.motorguard.com/air_2_2.html
a paint guide....
http://books.google.com/books?id=Tr...hl=en&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=10&ct=result
I will be getting this locally not this name brand but very similar from my automotive speed shop. Also adding a 2nd regulator towards then of the hose is a good idea. Setting the main one to 50psi the regulating the 2nd one to your specs for th paint you use.
I must say you guys are creating a monster here! LOL I cant wait to get set up and try my hand at airbrushing. I am still looking at various air brushes.
Last edited by a moderator:
lmackattack
old school
the larger compressors will allow you to regulate the air presser better as they have more volume so presser drop is not as fast when you spray. But I like my little Compressor. its what always has worked for me.
