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"We're from the Feddle Gummint. We're here to help."

Maybe I am very much in the minority, but I just leave mine. I don't handle the equipment very much and if it rubs off, I just add a bit more. Easy.

If you scale prototype ballast, it turns out that the fraction between 35 and 45 mesh sieves makes accurate (HO) scale ballast. I have no idea what mesh the various ballast vendors use, but that range will give you ballast which scales up to between slightly over an inch to two inches. That is...

You could certainly do worse than one of those layouts. They are well thought out and have enough operation built in that you don't have to just watch trains run around an oval. Get a locomotive painted up in demo colors and it could be running on any railroad, or be there on a lease. That...

We still don't know what happened to your first two layouts. I think you need to do a lot of reading before you do any more building or start any more layouts. Good luck.

You said this is your third layout. Just out of vulgar curiosity, what happened to the first two?

Not to pick at nits, but that "ain't" what a bridge rectifier does. Rectifiers convert AC to DC. Bridge Rectifiers convert AC to full-wave-rectified DC. DC is not "a more normal sine wave." Please explain just how a bridge rectifier can convert anything into any kind of sine wave, in case I...

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Bingo! Tnx

I really don't want to be a pain, but can you put up a link that works? I am not able to find your pictures.

Do you have any photos of the Boxcabs?

I would suggest you do some reading, as others have said. There is a lot to learn and it will keep you busy for years. You have the whole internet available otherwise you wouldn't be here. Look around. Let us know how it is going.

I would choose whichever one takes better macro photos. If you can't tell the difference, then I'd choose the cheaper of the two. I cannot imagine you would be unhappy with the Canon even though it is less. Remember, there is a lot more to photography than going out and throwing money at a...

You can avoid the "looked good on paper" problem by making scale drawings of your track plan or by getting full sized switch templates and laying it out on brown paper in 1:1 size. This will sort out the worst cases of "Gee, I thought that would fit, look, here is my drawing." In the long...

Thanks to all who replied. It looks as if it is "whim and chance."

I have no idea what you are doing, but if soldering doesn't hold brass, your technique is faulty. if these are new parts, clean everything well and use a hot, clean soldering iron with either acid flux or rosin core solder. Touch a bit of solder to the tip, then apply the tip to both parts...

Try this. eng.lacity.org/techdocs/streetd/figures/e100/e113.pdf

Take the prototype weight and divide by 87 three times not once. One to 87 is the linear relationship of the dimensions. The volume and weights need to be multiplied (or divided) three times. If you do this you come out with some halfway reasonable numbers. For example, a NMRA standard 40'...

NYSW F45; I'd pick the first one for legibility. Fancy doesn't get you very much if no one can read it. All capitals is especially sensitive to this problem. The first one looks right to me.

If I wanted to model a locomotive with one or more hood doors replaced (but not painted yet) what color primer would be "correct?" Does it depend on the builder, the railroad, or whim and chance? Tnx