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You need to make the form out of something water proof not any paper board. Because the mix will have to be wet enough to pour out and work out bubbles. I made a mould from a Chooch Abutment with latex rubber, build it up with several coats, with dry time for each coat, so it took a few days for...

That's about right, old stores had like 16'-18' ceilings inside. The outside usually had 3'H transom glass across the front above the windows and doors to let in more light (many old buildings were built before Electicity), later years people would remodel the stores and drop the ceilings to a...

They're not worn out, check for a crack going across on all the axle gears. Those usually split open. I replace mine with Athearn's axle gears.

Yeah that looks OK, I was assuming it had a steel roof but that does look like a rolled roof. Most mills had metal roofs but would have ribs going verticle.

A lot of ideas here and most will work, but are a little overkill. Here's my $0.02, what I do is use some regular model tube glue, put it in the hole, install the screw let it dry, the glue will bond to the plastic but not to the screw. Back out the screw when dry, Wha-la new threads!

In the past some loco's needed more weight, the early Stewart's AS16, AS616 with Athearn drives were terrible under weighted. One time our club had a pulling contest, so I took an Athearn SD40T-2 and loaded it in with brass slugs inside, it was able to single handedly pull 80 cars around our...

How 'bout a show and tell on the corn?

Most of the time roofs were painted Silver to reflect the sun and the building itself with white sides, probbly cause white was the cheapest color. Go to Google Image tab and type in "Feed Mill", you'll see a lot of old structures.

Coleman Fuel for lanterns and stoves was the same thing, you used to get a whole gal for $3, but they may have changed that now too! I just use Dupont Automotive Lacquer Thinner, it dries faster than the cheap Lacquer thinner from stores. I know a professional modeler, he uses Dupont Lacquer...

Welcome, seems this hobby takes a back seat fairly often.

I'm no wizz but are you sure it's not just showing resistance from inside the torise? the windings?

Nice pic's, I like the Stude with the hood scoop.

Floquil switched everything to Enamel a few years back as did everybody, no matter what business it pertained to due to environmental and health issues. I wanted to paint my Motorcycle last year and Automotive lacquers are banned. You can still buy thinner all over but no paint (some in fiz cans...

Engineers sit on the right side, steam was especially bad to see out ahead with, the new units today the engineer can see pretty good all across the front. Early hood diesels had long hoods facing forward, Alco's, FM's, not helping much to see. EMD's Cab units probbly were the first ones to get...

Or was it more dirt track.

Larry were you into drags? Pic's are kinda hard to tell.

Yeah, the white stuff is messy and not as strong, otherwise there is no reason not to use it. It's just expanded foam beads, where as the blue or pink is closed cell foam and is more solid and easier to work with.

I would go to a home store, it may be a little cheaper, or an automotive supply for your main Buss wires. For the track feeds, I use Door Bell wire from a home store (comes in a bundle of red and white together, I put red on one rail, white on the other). It's a solid strand which makes it...

Looks more like it was built on a Tender frame, many were converted.

Yeah, I think most (cheaper ones)are made by one mfgr, just slap a different sticker and paint on them, probbly China too!.