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I've used 2-in foam alone on shelf brackets and now 1-in laminated to hollow core doors. I use cheap caulk to adhere n-scale or HO cork roadbed to the foam and then track (not turnouts) to the cork. I've tacked down track to/thru the cork with just Atlas track nails if I think I'll rearrange...

Anybody know of a textured rattle can paint that doesn't attack foam aside from the "faux granite" stuff? I found some sand texture, earthtone paint that I wanted to use for some scenery, but a test showed it dissolved the extruded foam I'm using.

I'd think long and hard before buying any ($$$$) premade benchwork. True, it can be a time saver, but unless I had zero carpentry skills or absolutely no place to make benchwork, I'd do it myself. There's a large variety of benchwork that people have used successfully - foam alone, foam on...

I use an electric palm sander to lower cork profiles (on the mainline) and to transition down to spurs. I save the "dust" and mix with a little glue to use as a filler for holes, etc. in the roadbed. Works pretty quickly for me.

I'll add a dissenting voice - I don't like to ballast - it's a PITA IMO - therefore I don't. For me the color/texture of cork roadbed is close enough to give an illusion of ballasted track. I might change my mind eventually, but for now I'm satisfied and relatively stress free hobby-wise. :cool:

Can you reach those tracks in back (where the L is in Lowes) easily? If you keep it up against the wall, Murphy says that's where most derailments will happen. If you can have it away from the wall, you might want to run a divider diagonally across the layout so the ovals aren't as obvious...

I model the relatively flat midwest, but I believe most people try to stay to a 3% or less grade. There are exceptions of course.

Just a couple comments: I have used adhesive caulk with good results to secure cork to foam and track to cork. Easy to pull up if (when?) you make mistakes. YEMV depending on what product(s) you use. IMO HO cork has too high of a profile so I now use N-scale cork for HO roadbed. On my...

What are you using for uncoupling? (At first I thought there were undertrack slab magnets with unusual placements but then I realized those are spill pans.)

Looks good! How many cars can you pull at a time when you use the runaround?

I've asked about this on other forums, but haven't seen a clear answer, so: At Normantown on the Leithton Sub, northbound, two main tracks converge to single track. Each main has a signal mast with 3 heads - on top is a 3-light head, in the middle is a 1-light head and at the bottom there is...

I'm curious what people use to maintain consistent spacing between tracks on parallel mainlines - eyeball it, with or without guidelines drawn on the roadbed? Straight-edge? Hunk of wood cut to fit between ends of ties? Block with a couple notches cut into it that fit over one rail of each...

Very nice first layout. Many newcomers try to cram as much track into their plan as space allows, making for a visual and maintenance nightmare. Your plan allows to run a train with a little height variation for visual interest and you can switch the spur when it suits you. I would have...

I have to agree. Even if you finished that, it would probably be a nightmare to maintain. I'd at least check a couple of Mindheim's books.

Mine too until I muster the courage to try painting on some fields and trees.

Very impressive work! Most modern industries around here tend to be huge, sprawling things. I think the scale of your plant captures that feeling very well.

That's an ambitious plan. Do you have the time, energy and $$$ to build it in an acceptable (to you) amount of time or is this a long-term/layout-of-a-lifetime plan? Have you broken the plan down into bite-sized chunks so you can get trains running relatively quickly? Maybe that doesn't...

Rather than start a new thread, how about this Athearn problem: I have a relatively new (about 3 years old) GP38-2 that grinds only in reverse and at low speeds. It's not too bad with the shell off, but with the shell on, it's really loud. Running forward, there's a little noise at very low...

Check Lance Mindheim's pages for industrial / switching track plans. Many are shelf layouts without a continuous (roundy-round) run but they could be adapted without too much trouble to have a continuous run provision. I started with a U-shaped shelf switcher, but now it's a doughnut b/c I...

If you can easily access and see (from some perspective) the staging without resorting to tv monitors, IR sensors, lifting out scenery/buildings and so on, I'd hide it. If it's visible staging, I'd include it as part or a yard of some kind. Interchange track(s) make good visible changing and...