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Defiantly reflective, huh? “I’m reflective, dammit!!” “I’m flashy and shiny and you clowns can’t do JACK about it!!!” “Yeah, I make things all bright at night, try to stop me!!!” Nope, I don’t get it.

Looks like you were conscious even of pavement joints and crowned road surface considerations. Very nice.

Mind you, what I did was for N scale; your sig suggests you’re working in HO, so the resulting texture might be too fine to suit you.

Does this mean you’ll be airbrushing oil paints, then? If so, I will be keenly interested in your learnings.

Double-post

Yeah, I did; otherwise I wouldn’t suggest it.

I would suggest you find a textured gray spray can of Rustoleum ir Krylon. Get a plausible road texture at least price. Get the acrylics for washes for achieving final surface colors, grease streak, skid marks, etc.

Not to worry, you didn’t keep me up late!

At a 50-mile round trip to for me to get some driving my Tundra, Amazon’s price doesn’t look so bad. And the hour and a half time taken up in the procuring, also tip the scales.

I just go the Amazon route.

Man, with my models being N scale, a sandwich bag, or even a snack bag in some cases, should suffice. I wonder if painting the window glass over with Tamiya gloss clear (X-22?) would give back a reasonable gloss? Thanks for the breakdown!

If it is not poor form to suggest another forum, I would like to recommend Trainboard.com, specifically the N scale section, where there is an active thread from an N scale modeler, making NASCAR Transporters and trucks for display on his layout, and decals are a component of that discussion...

You know, I do, too. I really do! Looks like I forgot to rub off the spray haze from the window on the door at the nose of the cab. Different but closely related subject: How do you (or CAN someone) successfully “start over” a job that has been sealed already? I did it once (two cars in a...

Ok, Finished the third engine, and achieved the fade effect I wanted. Without further ado: I added more of the Vallejo Deep Blue, until the mixture was a “Petty Blue.” (It was more of a “sky blue” before.) Not knowing how much old mixture I had, I don’t know the total ratios. Did not add...

I’m basing my determination of the level of fade I want from both photography and what I remember seeing by eye. These ET44 GEVOs aren’t that old, with #977 delivered in 2011, and the other two in 2015. Iooked at photos of the engines, and also general photos of engines running on the New River...

One more thing: The truth is, when it comes to the diesel oil over flow streaking, I forgot to my ention I actually like the result, the flat over the gloss tones it down to a semi-gloss, which to me is a more accurate depiction of spilled diesel oil down the side of a tank than a high gloss...

The rear plow: I tell you what, those make-up cables on the STX are very small stuff. Base flat coat and final sealing wash Dullcote from a bottle, thinned about 0.8 to 1. FOR FILING IN THE “WHAT I LEARNED” DEPARTMENT ARCHIVE: I don’t have to thin things nearly as much, except for washes...

“Let’s get down to the main attraction, With a little less talk, and a lot more action…” Ok, I’m going to try to be less wordy and leave the talking to the photos, and stop to talk only about what I did different with this engine, or what I learned in the weathering of it. The promised picture...

This one is the BLI, but I do have the first Scaletrains in the works, so we’ll see. I did get this one working today. I noticed it would stay powered for several minutes at a time while sitting still, and even make sound, but not move. I did another decoder reset, and got to where it would...

Of course now, I just have to get the infernal thing to run again. The airbrushing has gotten acrylic and dullcote onto the contacts. This happened a few weeks ago, and I got it all running again. The electrical connection was so blinky at that time, that I had to reset the decoder. But I...