Building the MTH HO scale, 60' wood deck flatcar with Diecast Masters 1:87th (previously Norscot) Caterpillar D9T Tractor load.


Thanks Rico, good to hear from an operator, they're big machines. I should note that the car designations are of TTX's making, other roads mostly seem to use number series to indicate different types. Just that TTX now appears to be the largest supplier of lease equipment. Others may use different methods for securing the loads. The military for one does. I got a reply back from MB Klein regarding the question I asked, if they had had other reports/complaints of the rotating wheel caps on the MTH cars, falling off or being loose. The replier said he hadn't but had had about the Genesis ones. I'll be checking each set as I work through them, see how it goes. They are still the most accurate and detailed representation on the market otherwise. (almost missed putting the "a" into rotating then o_O.)
Ray.
 
I decided I'd have a close look at the axles on these flatcars with the caps off on one side. The center bit between wheels is a normal size for metal ones, but reduces where it fits through the wheel so there is a stop formed for the inside of the wheel to butt up to and that size continues through to the wheel's outer side and extends just enough to create a stop to keep the inside face of the sideframe clear of the wheel. From there it reduces in diameter to form that stop and then to pass through the outer frame and form the load bearing bit. With the caps off there is the very short recess for them in the sideframes outer face and the axle end has reduced again for the cap to press? onto, The actual load bearing length through the side frame therefore is very short and the pin like end for the cap looks to be about the size of a #76 drillbit. So, there are 3 reductions in diameter at each end of each axle. You'd wonder how they could even machine something like that, but then maybe they can't, on a reliably consistent basis. I'm goin to write to MTH, see what they will or can do about it. I'm not looking forward to having to check everyone, which will hold me up badly from getting on with it.
 
Masterful modeling work, RAY, however - maybe you should change your avatar to, is it Calvin, opening the can of worms? You really have one going with those trucks!
 
Thanks Sherrel, my wanting to know how and why it works and probably more importantly, why the designer did it the way they did it, began in early childood. I think it was mainly driven by laziness i.e. "why the heck did they make it so hard to get to this bit or get this apart to fix". Sometimes I found that the method used couldn't be improved due to operating restrictions, others that could have, but also were too lazy to think about it, or care. A simple method to make an improvement to these caps grip on the axles end, I think would have been to not reduce the end as they've done. Looking crosseyed at the cap itself, I can see no reason to do so. The visible rotating end is large enough to cover a bigger press on bit, that it wouldn't be seen anyway, thereby increasing, small though it still would be, the surface area of material doing the gripping.
 
Only got the 2 bits of bent wire to put into the tractor's tracks to create the droop, then it's onto the flatcars again. I will show my method for removing the boards, so they can be "enhanced". They are only spot glued in three places, presumably with CA. (see if I can find out what softens that stuff, might make it easier)and maybe use some isopropyl alcohol to soak the buff yellow paint off them. A layer or two off them to start with might help. Hope it doesn't dissolve the thin plastic as well.

After I do this one, I'm going to get onto filling at least one car of those Cat types I've got, for running at the club, interspersed with decoder installs and reassembling the Kato NS SD80MAC that all in bits for painting (dulling down). That has had it's marker light positions filled and flattened to represent how the prototypes look. I have 2 of them, one with an ESU decoder fitted and this one, an Intermountain ES44AC and a Genesis 'ACe, #1201 in the Cat scheme, also to have an ESU to be installed, as power for this train. Not MRL I know, but this was well on it's way with Cat equipment before I got into that. As far as the speaker for the 80MAC (or maybe both), a pair of the iPhone 4s might be better glued back to back, because the 6s Plus is a bit tight. Dinner and then back at it.
 
TrucTrain55 said:
I like your post Toot! Everything looks great!
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Thanks T.T. I have photos of how I get the decks off, yet to post. As acetone or hot water seem to be the most recommended for softening/removing CA glue and neither is plastic friendly, I returned to the physical method.
 
Acetone or nail polish remover will soften CA. Acetone works better, but nail polish remover is easier on your health.
 
flyboy2610 said:
Acetone or nail polish remover will soften CA. Acetone works better, but nail polish remover is easier on your health.
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I haven't tried it and all that I read about was wary of using it on plastic, because it might do the same to that. The hot water method could also end up damaging the model too, so safe in both regards is my thinking. Not that there isn't physical danger in that, but I will warn where that applies.
 
Sirfoldalot said:
Masterful modeling work, RAY, however - maybe you should change your avatar to, is it Calvin, opening the can of worms? You really have one going with those trucks!
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In removing the decks off the latest two, a cap fell off in my hand. I think I'll get one of those medical isolation units where nothing can escape from.
 
Back to the grindstone. (Now I'm gon'na sound like one of those youtube reviews)

Unpacking the box
The model is held in one of those vacuum formed transparent, 2 piece, press "button" together holders. (that saved 4 pictures on how to undo the end of the box or 15 minutes of video), I have before removed the center strip as well as the side ones, but this batch seem to be glued down more, so haven't bothered. As the simulated boards are wider and longer, just regrooving them will be enough to make the joints stand out more and because they run lengthwise (longitudinally), there's no risk of slipping off the ends with the knife blade and damaging the car. So... onto the side ones.
The only reason I do take them off is to avoid that damaging of the delicate detailing in the tiedown channels and it prevents an unwanted build up of paint in them also, because it's best to apply the paint in the same direction as those boards run crosswise (laterally)

The board strips are held to the deck rails with glue (as I said) at only 3 places, 1 at the middle and 1 each above the truck's bolster line. You will see that along the tiedown channels there are small gaps in them, where (in my case) I inserted a needle point probe (a sharp, pointed blade will do, and may be better) to lift the unstuck part up and provide an entry for a chisel blade to get in underneath. Paint may be stuck together along these, but usually breaks away easily. Note: the blade as shown is wrong way up, sharp point should be up. Also check the blade's edges (sides) and deburr, to avoid cutting into the channel's tops. I also found i had to tighten the clamping ferrule with pliers to hold the blade firmly.
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Remove the lifting spike or blade point and swing the straight blade around to as close to inline with the board, but not out from under and move it towards the end of the deck. It will stop at the peg, molded onto the underside of the board (or the glue before it). Apply some pressure onto that glue or pin and rock the blade (twisting the handle, the reason for being tight) and the glue (or and the pin) should come free. (the pin may break off. No big deal)
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SAFETY NOTE: Always keep the hand holding the car BEHIND the blade. I haven't had any problems with the wire grabs getting damaged or bent during this procedure, EXCEPT for the handle of the coupler pin lift bar on each end, That wire? is the softest and most easily bent out of shape piece of metal? I've ever seen, BUT, none have broken off, You only have to lay the car over to 45deg and it'll bend and stay there, so just be aware of it. Once bent, just leave it, till finished.

When that end is free, turn the car around to the opposite direction and attack the middle peg and glue. You will now be able to aim straight at it. Cut and rock till it comes free and repeat at the far end. Makes it seem easy doesn't it?
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This particular car had the brake wheel and shaft removed (with pliers) because it was off on an angle. It still didn't come out easily, but it was good not to have it in the way. Tried to do that with the next car, it wouldn't budge. I should mention here too the other main reason for removing these strips. So I can cut bits or whole boards out without risking cutting the underframe, cut one of the ribs right through on the first car. If you snap a length in half, or anywhere, you've got one started. There is a difference between sides, so make sure when regluing them back onto the car you have the correct one on it's own side.

The side with the brake wheel has a small notch in the end to clear the base of the brake wheel. (wheel and shaft removed)
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What I did forget to mention at the beginning was the Chains etc that comes with these cars, 15" of chain, 8 tensioning adjusters an several pices of very fine wire to join them with, each in their own pouch, taped to the back of the warranty card's bag. Ever since I first started these loads, I've been thinking of a way to make the joinings thereof, easier. I think I've worked out a method, hopefully. For now they will go into shelf storage
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Onto deepening and widening the grooves between the boards down the center strip. I have a blade holder that takes the broader blades with a decent sized handle that helps a lot with this. Sorry, I forgot to include the handle in the pic
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I start with the long joints first (not that it matters) and draw the sharp edge of the blade, down the lengths of each groove, a couple of times each (2 grooves), then the 3 cross joints the same
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With the cross joints, I work from each side towards the center approximately to avoid harming those inner chain channels.
 
To increase the effect, I then retrace the grooves with the point of the blade reversed a couple of times each as well. Try not to slip out of the groove in the cross ones. On the long ones it's not a problem, they will look like splits in the grain.

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Hope you can see that.
 
You do realize that you should make videos of your modeling techniques for a living; as Tony the Tiger would say, "you're GREAT!".
 
Sirfoldalot said:
You do realize that you should make videos of your modeling techniques for a living; as Tony the Tiger would say, "you're GREAT!".
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I'd have to get a decent camera to do that, Sherrel, plus a cut-out Daniel Craig cardboard mask. My trans Tasman accent might need some working on too. It slips back and forward sometimes.
 
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