Remove the lifting spike or blade point and swing the straight blade around to as close to inline with the board, but not out from under and move it towards the end of the deck. It will stop at the peg, molded onto the underside of the board (or the glue before it). Apply some pressure onto that glue or pin and rock the blade (twisting the handle, the reason for being tight) and the glue (or and the pin) should come free. (the pin may break off. No big deal)
SAFETY NOTE: Always keep the hand holding the car BEHIND the blade. I haven't had any problems with the wire grabs getting damaged or bent during this procedure, EXCEPT for the handle of the coupler pin lift bar on each end, That wire? is the softest and most easily bent out of shape piece of metal? I've ever seen, BUT, none have broken off, You only have to lay the car over to 45deg and it'll bend and stay there, so just be aware of it. Once bent, just leave it, till finished.
When that end is free, turn the car around to the opposite direction and attack the middle peg and glue. You will now be able to aim straight at it. Cut and rock till it comes free and repeat at the far end. Makes it seem easy doesn't it?
This particular car had the brake wheel and shaft removed (with pliers) because it was off on an angle. It still didn't come out easily, but it was good not to have it in the way. Tried to do that with the next car, it wouldn't budge. I should mention here too the other main reason for removing these strips. So I can cut bits or whole boards out without risking cutting the underframe, cut one of the ribs right through on the first car. If you snap a length in half, or anywhere, you've got one started. There is a difference between sides, so make sure when regluing them back onto the car you have the correct one on it's own side.
The side with the brake wheel has a small notch in the end to clear the base of the brake wheel. (wheel and shaft removed)