River or sea side dock/station

[Maxitrains]

I have a place in the layout where I have to put a sort of small dock, where boats or small ships will unload their cargo, to be loaded on the train cars. this is a very narrow place, so I cannot afford large buildings, and also my layout will be approx in the 50's - 60's. I kept looking for some kind of siutable station with dock, but couldn't find any. This place that I am talking about can be seen on the plan at the top left corner. I will also try to place 2 rails at the end so I can park cars and switch them, if I will have anough space. bot for now I'm looking for a good freight station to put in that narrow valley.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee188/Maxitrain/Model%20RR/Plan_1_exsm.jpg

And which are the most detailed building brands?


Any suggestions or maybe someone might have seen something similar to what I'm looking for?

Thanks

[Steve B]

Maxi here you go,,, this is great and cheap to do and fits awywhere

DOCKSCENE (http://www.scalescenes.com/products/T016-Dock-Edge) by Scalescene's

[Maxitrains]

Yeah nice dockside wall, and will use such thing for the place, but I wanted some kinda station, depot or platform for the place, I donno which goes more with the scene. That's why I need suggestions about the scene and building.

As I said I'll try to put 2 rails very close to each other so I can put more action, then just one rail.

[HaggisKennedy]

There's a bunch of el-cheapo small buildings that will fit in a dinky location. Some will be named 'some sort of station', complete with a little loading platform.

They're not real detailed, but using painting and weathering techniques, they'll look a lot better than the toy-like shiny plastic that comes out of the box.

I'm suggesting these because some of the better, more detailed kits may be too large for the spot. Unless you decide to kitbash using the DPM modular stuff. That might work the best, since you can almost custom-fit. And, the detail is good. Another option is the Walthers Modulars; I have a bunch of packs, but haven't built anything yet.

Kennedy

[Maxitrains]

Here I am with this again, since I'm almost near the finishing touches on the whole layout's rail system, the only place still to work on, is this river side station / depot. I did a rough sketch on how I am thinking of constructing it, but I would like a high response on ideas about it and how it could be made better, since the place is very small and restricted. According to the plan shown here, every square is 1 sqr foot, it also shows 1 line going in, but I will be trying to put 2 lines, maybe my sketch with station / depot in middle is not going to happen since the rails will be very near each other, that's why I'm asking for a feedback, since many of you have a good experience in this hobby. I would like to put 2 lines, so I can make it more interesting and add more cars to it.

Plan
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee188/Maxitrain/Model%20RR/Plan_1_port.jpg

Sketch
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee188/Maxitrain/Model%20RR/riverside-station_cargodetails.jpg

Layout (hidden place but still want it to be detailed)
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee188/Maxitrain/Model%20RR/Dock.jpg

[UP2CSX]

I don't think you have enough room to be able to have two tracks and have any type of structure in the middle. You could get in the two tracks next to the river and then use a low-relief structure as your terminal. I'm thinking along the lines of something like this at http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/933-3192 . This would give you the look of a shipping and receiving terminal without taking up as much space as a regular structure.

[Maxitrains]

It looks very good but I doubt it will fit in the space I have, I think I have less then 12" of straight track in that part. Also the trucks will be then hidden between this structure and the hill, so when seen from the front you will see the river then that structure and a background of hills.

So far its not a bad idea at all, except that the structure is long.

Anymore ideas :) ?

[Maxitrains]

OK, here's a closer look at the area in question. This is the place where this dick or whatever it will be, will be built, on the left side you can see a curve switch still packed as I try to check the positions of the 2 rails and where they will end.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee188/Maxitrain/Model%20RR/dockside.jpg

[UP2CSX]

Sure, just do a little kitbashing. You can cut up that background structure so it still fits in the space you have available. You can even turn part of it at the end of the track. Just do some creative thinking when you're jamming things in small spaces. :) The tracks won't be hidden if they are in front and the structure is blended in to the hillside.

[Maxitrains]

OK lets say I put the building in teh background, and the rails are infront, should I put concrete platforms in between the rails or leave just ballast in between/ could it be possible to add a crane somewhere? or it will conflict with the box cars? I'm asking all these questions, cause over here I can't take a ride in the car and go look for soemthing similar since we don;t have trains.

Thanks for the ideas so far.

[UP2CSX]

I'd build a dock platform of either wood or concrete, depending on your era. Have the tracks running so vehicles can drive up the tracks to get to the warehouse, e.g, the top of the tracks should be level with the dock and the spaces between the tracks should be filled in, kind of like a tramway.

If you're asking about a dock mounted crane, I don't think you have enough room. You can have boom cranes on the ships that offload the goods on to the dock and have forklifts that take the goods to the warehouse for transhipping by truck or rail. Portable conveyor belts can also be used for this with less space than a crane. River traffic usually isn't carrying much really heavy freight.

A common method used in the freight house days was to have all the track area paved so a train or truck could move around with ease. If a truck needed to pick up freight and the loading door was blocked by a freight car, they'd use a portable ramp from the dock through an empty car, driving a forklift through to load the truck. Your space is pretty tight but I think you could make this work.

[Maxitrains]

This is a much better idea, so far its the most plausable scene that would fit well, since I would get or build a backdrop warehouse, which won't take much space and I can fill an entire 14" lenght of space, and by making an entire concrete platform flush with the rail tops, I would have a big open space where to put lifters, boxes and all other shipping items without losing space. Then maybe I can simulate a tunnel in the side of the rocky hill, for trucks that come in the warehouse. the idea is already generating the picture.

Keep comming more details pls! :)

[UP2CSX]

Simulating a tunnel is a good idea - I've done this in the past with excellent results. That would maximize your space for tracks and warehouse without needing an access road. I think you're on the right track. :)

[Maxitrains]

I was wondering if Forklifts existed yet in the 40's to 60's era, and if not what was used to haul heavy boxes on trucks and lorries. I need to get some info about cargo and shipping, so I can work on this part of the layout and be sure I'll make it look good :)

[Maxitrains]

Did anyone ever use or had in hand this building?

http://www.walthers.com/prodimage/0933/09330000003173.gif

I need to know the exact measurements of it, all I know are the over all measurements which are 12 5/8 x 3 1/4 x 6 1/8 tall , I would like to know some more details about it, like the dept of the building alone, without the platform/ramp and the height of the platform. I was going to use this building for my riverside freight station, but since I came to know the overall dept of this building, I doubt I have enough space for it, so I need the above details to make some modifications. I wonder if anyone can help me!!!

thanks

[Maxitrains]

OK here's my work so far on this building, I will try to place this to see how the layout will be, if I can manage to continue building this and I can get it visually good, I will leave it in the layout, if not I will buy the original one, but first I wanna try with the one I'm making.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee188/Maxitrain/Model%20RR/building_1.jpg

[UP2CSX]

Maxi,
First, to your question about forklifts, yes , they have been around since the 1930's at least, and were common by the 40's. They are very durable machines and some from the 40's are still in use today. With the exception of certain safety appliances, a 1950 forklift doesn't look much different than a modern forklift.

That's nice artwork you've done for the background building. Are you planning on actually use the beaded foam as your building? If so, stop now and get some styrene. All the neat windows and doors you've drawn will crumble into nothing once you start cutting them out of bead foam. If you're just using this to test for space and clearance, that's fine, but it won't work for a real structure.

[Maxitrains]

More updates as I go along

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee188/Maxitrain/Model%20RR/building_3.jpg

[UP2CSX]

Maxi, take this advice for what you will but you are going to regret putting this much work into beaded foam. You are never going to get a smooth surface for the windows and roof and, if you cut enough holes, it's going to break. If you are going to continue, at least the reinforce the back of the structure with some sheet styrene.

[Maxitrains]

Well to tell you the truth, I am going to apply a printed face to the structure for detail, and the whole structure itself is made up of 2" solid "beaded" foam. So far its still feeling solid enough :) we will see later on :)

I apriciate your advice and already took it in consideration earlier on, but I like challenges :P

Thanks

[Maxitrains]

OK here's my first tryout of the building in place with the rails. Its more restricted then I ever thought, but I think it will work anyway.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee188/Maxitrain/Model%20RR/dockside_2.jpg

after I tried it, I noticed that I had to elevate more the base of the dock as it was very low near to the river base, now ita around 1" high, which will be perfect to build a dock side wall.

I still have a small problem though which I mentioned earlier in another post. the rail leading to this dock, passes under another line ( bridge ) but now I noticed that the clearance is too little, and don't have much tollerance to correct the spacing. I already lowered a little the dock platform (base) but the adjustment made was back to what it was when I placed the road bed. My next adjustment will be the upper line, but to lift up that line will mean increase the gradient, so I cannot afford much either. on the left side of the lower rail will be the river, so the only support I can place will be a mid stone support, as shown in above photo. The span of that bridge will be approx 9", can anyone post an idea of which bridge would go best for this place?

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee188/Maxitrain/Model%20RR/bridgeproblem_2.jpg


Kindly help

[jbaakko]

Maxitrains, I think you'll be fine with that bridge at that height. Just no high cube cars! You cna place those yellow signs on the sides of the bride with its height clearance, and farther down the line post a sign saying "Restricted clearance line, xx ft".

I'd think some sort of through girder, or plate bridge is in order. Atlas makes a number, but if the gap is too long, like suggested elsewhere, you may have to double bridge it. Put the first pillar right at the edge of the river. Its been done before, so it fits the prototype.

You know what might be cool? A through plate girder bridge over the tracks, and a deck plate girder over the river!

Through:
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/150-885
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/210-1903
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/210-1904
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/210-19031 (Might be your best bet there, being a curved bridge, and making your own very thin deck)
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/255-80180
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/933-2948

Deck:
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/200-765
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/255-75501
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/255-75507
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/933-3147 (this one will require allot of modification, but...)

There's more out there then just that, but I think they could look cool.

[UP2CSX]

What is that track mounted on presently? If it's structurally strong now, you can glue some plate girder to the side like the ones Josh pointed out in the Walther's catalog. What is the pier that's upsteam from the bridge being used for? It's hard to tell from the picture but, assuming that's going to be supporting another line and it's close enough to the new bridge, you can build up another pier right next to it to support the two plate girders spans. The clearance isn't really a problem as long as you have warnings like Josh wrote. Technically, you should also have telltales hanging on both sides of the bridge to warn it won't clear a man on top of a car.

Now, that track running across the top of your dockside building looks like a real problem. Assuming I'm seeing it right, it appears that it runs right on top of the building with almost no clearance. That's something that no building codes would allow and no one would be able to work on the roof. If what I'm see is true, I suggest you lower that building by a story now before you start dealing with another bridge problem.

[Maxitrains]

Hi Jim, as for the top track I have enough clearance, and its not on top of the building, its an optical illusion, if U see the following picture U will know why

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee188/Maxitrain/Model%20RR/dockside.jpg

The lower track curve is presently on some kind of curved bridge base, which as you say, I can attach a couple of plate girder sides and leave it as is.

The pier I have there is just for reference, since I don't have a shorter one at the moment to try it under that curve, there will be no other line there, its only the 3 you are seeing, Top curve, Mid curve and bottom crossing.

I will also place signs everywhere even at the previous intersection before the switcher enters the siding. :) I'm already picturing teh whole valley infront of me at the moment :)

Thanks guys, more ideas will be appriciated as well

[UP2CSX]

Maxi, I see that optical illusion now. Please disregard my previous warning about lowering the building. :) Low clearance bridges are not unusual, especially when they pass over lightly used industrial traffic. I can't find a picture of one now but US railroads often used tell-tales to warn a man on top of a car that they were coming to an obstruction that wouldn't clear a standing man. The were like a telegraph pole with an arm coming out at 90 degrees over the track. The arm held pieces of rope cut to the length of a the minimum clearance so the ropes would hit anyone standing on the car and warn him to get down from the top of the car or lay flat and hope for the best. That would actually be more prototypical than a bunch of signs.

[Maxitrains]

Its not a problem, it could ahve been like U said and brought it to my attention, so I thank you for that :)

As maybe U have seen I'm trying to model the building I will be needing for this place, and also need to print the brick wall facade, but my difficulty is how big should the bricks be, in the walther's model its hard to see since its a small picture, I counted approx 26 brick layers near a window, could that be possible?

In my country we don't use bricks to build so I don't have a clue on the bricks sizes used for construction, and I guess there are more then one type and size. Also the era in which that building was constructed could have been used different types as well. Can anyone give me a hint on what size should I look for so that I can scale down the textures for a better look. I'm not after the brick colour detail, unless that type of brick was made for a specific purpose.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee188/Maxitrain/Model%20RR/building_4.jpg

This is the building I'm trying to construct

http://www.thediecast.com/images/diecast/90973.jpg

Thanks

[UP2CSX]

Maxi,
I'll give you some general brick guidelines. Brick aren't like lumber. They didn't come in standard sizes but there were common sizes. Facing brick like that structure would be made with were about 2.5 inches thick and 8 inches long. An industrial building would normally have 8 foot ceilings. Adding space for floor and ceiling joists, an average story was about 10 feet tall. Therefore, a one story brick building would have about 48 courses of brick.

Looking at your building, you have somewhere between 11 and 12 courses of brick next to the windows. That would make your window about 2.5 feet high, which is very small for an industrial window, since their main purpose was to let in light. The 26 courses of brick next the Walthers window would indicate a window about 5.5 feet high, much more likely in an industrial structure. Basically, while your brick look fine, they are really too big to represent common American brick. Now, does this really matter? How many people will be counting the number of brick courses you have in this building? It's up to you, of course, but I think what you have looks fine for a background building. If you want it to be more exact then you have to reduce the height of the bricks by about half.

[Maxitrains]

Thanks very much for the guidline, as U said, not many people will be counting bricks, and I'm not in to make it perfect, but at least I would get it close to what is real, and since I just made one print, I will adjust the brick size to have a better print.

Thanks.

[Maxitrains]

A little more progress on my building :)

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee188/Maxitrain/Model%20RR/building_5.jpg

[UP2CSX]

Maxi, it's coming along better than I thought it would. The brickwork is fine for what you're doing. My thoughts now is that you are going to have to square up some of those windows. It looks like that first window is framed in wood. While that would work, it's not very prototypical and makes a small window look even smaller. I'd use some thin strip styrene for the frames, painted green to simulate steel frames. You're also going to have to come up with some way to make window glass. Warehouses usually had multi pane windows since it was cheaper to replace a small piece of glass than a bigger one. If you have a steady hand, you can use clear styrene and a straight edge to paint thin green lines on the windows to represent mullions. A green fine point marker would probably do the job.

[Maxitrains]

Yeah Jim, I replaced and woeked out on the entire brickwork, and made it smaller infact it looks much better now. As for the window that was just a trial, I made that from match sticks, and the frame turned out to look thicker then it should be, as I was already thinking about using styrene for framing. As for the window panes, in the model picture they are sectioned in 4 parts, but as you said most of the large windows were sectioned in smaller parts, even though I think in the 40's not much of large glass sheets were produced and also as you said it was easier to change. My greatest concern is the roller shutter doors, as I'm still thinking on what material I should use to lighten up the job, instead of using styrene and have to stripe it all up with a marker. I still have to make the brick extrusions in between the building sections, but that won't be hard, I'll cut some wood srtips and cover them with the same brick work print I made.

[Maxitrains]

Here are some updates on my structure construction, for those interested :)

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee188/Maxitrain/Model%20RR/building_6a.jpg

I fitted in the extruding building re-enforcers with wooden strips, which eventually I will cover with same textured print, and added a solid wooden platform, which in these pictures is seen painted in photoshop, but later will be painted and weathered as concrete platform. I have another query though, that were warehouses roofs made of?

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee188/Maxitrain/Model%20RR/building_6b.jpg

[jbaakko]

Wow, thats looking awesome!

[UP2CSX]

Maxi, that building is really looking fine. Why not paint that trim a contrasting color rather than cover it with brick? Most of these types of structures were concrete frames with brick curtain walls. The parts you have sticking out would actually be the concrete beams rather than brick so either painting them to look like concrete or painting them an accent color would be more prototypical.

For rollup doors, check out the ones at http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/541-1100. They are only $2.25 for a set of 2 and I think they'd look just right on your warehouse.

Flat roofs were made of tar and gravel. Some black latex paint with some light color ballast sprinled on the top would give you the look you want. Thisis how the tat and gravel roof looks on one of my buildings.:
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h93/sar2401/RoofDetail1Small.jpg

[CSX_road_slug]

Nice job, I really like the brickwork! I can never seem to get mine to turn out the way I want it...

[Maxitrains]

Josh, tnx for your comments, I will keep updating this thread


JIM, I donno about painting concrete colour, since I don't really know if in the 50's they were already doing that type of concrete frame buildings ( I don't live in US :P )

About the roll up doors they look really fine but Walthers item does not specify the sizes of the door and in my eyes I see it like wider thent he ones I need, if U see well my building, in every section the door is in 3 parts, well maybe I will change it to 2 parts, but surely I don't think that a roll up door was ever that big.

And also thanks about the roof material U gave me a good lead on it as I did not quite have an idea on how warehouses roofs were actually finished.


KEN: thanks about ur comment, I tried several prints before I actually found the right one.

I'll keep updating it till its ready :), and when its ready I have to hire some people to run it :) so then I think I'll create my account with Walthers to get some forklift and workers and some crates and boxes to put on.

[UP2CSX]

Maxi,
Concrete frame buildings with brick curtain walls were built from the 1910's right up until about 1960. It's actually an older style of constuction that was superseded by steel frame construction with aluminum curtain walls.

Rollup door were, on average, about 8 feet wide for truck loading and 10 feet wide for railroad car loading. They were pretty big and your's are actually too small. Look at the width compared to the locomotive engineer in the MP-15. They had to move forklifts through those doors so they needed a good clearance. I think changing to two doors wide and using the ones at Walthers will give you a better appearance and make life easier all the way around.

[Maxitrains]

Latest building update :) still needs work and refinement, but getting there, here are the pictures.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee188/Maxitrain/Model%20RR/building_7a.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee188/Maxitrain/Model%20RR/building_7b.jpg

Kindly tell me if there's something which can be improved or changed

Thanks

[jbaakko]

Thats looking pretty darn good! I like the perspective of the open doors.

[Secondhandmodeler]

I have to say, this is the kind of home made modeling that impresses me. Something from almost nothing, great!

[UP2CSX]

Looks better all the time, Maxi. Humor me and add some bracing to the back of that thing though. :)

See if you have some brass tubing or parts in the scrap box that us can use for ventilators and smoke stacks. Warehouses usually had that kind of stuff on the roof. If you want to really get creative, build a couple of skylights. These were common ways to get more light into the upper floors. You'll need some lights for the loading docks too. You can make them with a paper punch, some thin brass, and some thin brass wire if you want to make non working models. If you want working lights, look for a kit that you can find in most hardware stores for snap fastener repairs. The top part of the fastener makes a perfect lamp shade and you can string a grain of rice bulb though it and into the building. Use super glue to stiffen up the wires so you can use them as a bracket. I made the yard light in this picture with the top half of one of those fasteners:

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h93/sar2401/FillingUpMedium.jpg

[Maxitrains]

Thanks for the hints JIM, as for the skylights it will be a littlehard to place any, since that building is only 2 inches in depth, can't surely place them touching the front wall.

As I said there's still lot to be done in it, especially the windows,which I'll be leaving for last till they require alot of work but there's still the canopy to be done, door frames, painting, weathering, etc etc. but at least I proved myself so far that even with a piece of beaded foam I could build something that could be used :)

[Maxitrains]

OK, here's an important question I need to ask help for. the rail part infront of the building will be too small, so I decided to cover the rails and make them enbeded in concrete, so to have maximum working area for vehicles too when there's no box cars. I tried this already on an old piece of track that I had, and the results where not so good and convincing. Is there anyone that can tell me how or were to find a Tutorial on how to do this thing correctly? I don't have a second chance on it, this will mean throwing away tracks after the plaster dries and the job is wrong.

Kindly help.

something like this.

http://www.trainweb.org/richard/OPLFEB16/Full_L_049.JPG

[UP2CSX]

Don't use plaster. I know you like to stay on a budget but this will come out much better if you buy and use some sheet styrene. You need some .30 or .40 styrene, depending on the height of your rail. You cut stips for the outside of the rails to make pavement and then strips to fit inside the rail with enough clearance for a flangeway. You can then paint and weather the styrene to look like concrete or asphalt. I made these crossings with styrene and I think it's the kind of thing you're looking for:
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h93/sar2401/Crossing1Medium.jpg

BTW, the picture you posted is a rubber mat grade crossing. They are fairly common here but wouldn't be what you need for a warehouse.

[Maxitrains]

BTW, the picture you posted is a rubber mat grade crossing

Now that U tell me I'm noticing it :)

but for the styrene sheets, are you saying to be used only on the inside of the rails or all around them? cause if all around the rails, it will be hard to model in curves.

[jbaakko]

Hehe, off topic, anyone notice the fake tree? Thats how we in Cali camouflage the radio antenna towers...

[Maxitrains]

This is similar to what I would like to have

http://www.mcghie.me.uk/final4.jpg

Obviously my space is much smaller. The place has to be flat for cars and trucks to drive on, and also have trains coimming in one rails. I will also try to find a small to medium sized crane to put on the side, for loading/unloading ships.

This is approx how I imagine my place on the layout, narrower though, but all looks good

http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/258/07reflectionssv6.jpg

This is how I explained I would like the rails to be.


http://img57.imageshack.us/img57/4202/10fishhousegm0.jpg

This is awesome.

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forumimages/Keyhaven9.jpg

[Maxitrains]

Any help about modeling this type of areas?

You cut stips for the outside of the rails to make pavement and then strips to fit inside the rail with enough clearance for a flangeway

Jim, I use Rails code 100 and so far I couldn't find any styrene sheets available locally, maybe they call them with another name, but so far nothing. I will try to use some kind of wood sheets that are used for RC planes, which are thin and soft to cut, then once cut in shape I will coat them with matt varnish, sand them and apply the paint I need on them. Otherwise I will have to use plaster to model that part.

BTW should I lay roadbed under the rails even though they will be covered, or no need to?

[Secondhandmodeler]

Hehe, off topic, anyone notice the fake tree? Thats how we in Cali camouflage the radio antenna towers... Can you imagine the size of furnace filter they had to use?:D

[UP2CSX]

Josh, I did notice that cell phone/fake pine tree. It's probably the only tree in miles. :)

Maxi, you should be able to find plastic sheet that is close to code 100 size. The pavement doesn't have to be exactly level with the rail tops, just close enough. Balsa sheets will work also but you will need to bond them together to get the right thickness and then seal the wood so it will look like pavement when you paint it. You don't have to use roadbed in this area and it will actually make things worse in terms of trying to get pavement of the right height. Some modelers even use just the rails from flex track and spike them down so there are no ties in the way, You could use much thinner plastic or wood if you did this.

[jbaakko]

Can you imagine the size of furnace filter they had to use?:D
Oh wow, that just made my day.

I see them all the time, there's a Big Pine tree along the CA 60, near Beaumont CA, and a Palm Tree just outside of Palm Springs on the CA 62. I've see others too, but those are the most notable on my head.

Maybe I should take some pictures some time, and model one (or a few).

[Secondhandmodeler]

Oh wow, that just made my day.

I see them all the time, there's a Big Pine tree along the CA 60, near Beaumont CA, and a Palm Tree just outside of Palm Springs on the CA 62. I've see others too, but those are the most notable on my head.

Maybe I should take some pictures some time, and model one (or a few).

Sorry Maxitrains for hijacking your thread, but I have one more silly comment to make. Jbaakko, you would be modeling a fake tree? Somehow that just doesn't sound right! "Gosh, this tree still looks too real!"

[jbaakko]

Lol!

Yeah, we (mostly I) did a good job of hijacking the thread!

[Maxitrains]

It seems I have to call the Delta Force here after all this HiJacking :P

Any more suggestions for my dockside, to add with UP2CSX's helpful tips?

It seems that for now I'll be only finishing that part of the layout, Cash has ran out and for the time I have to continue with what I have in hand :(

Though I have to work out the throttle controllers, since the boards I made where small and roughly made, I will try to make a single board with 8 or 10 throttle controllers for all the parts of my layout.

[Maxitrains]

I'm looking for a crane to put on the side of my dock, I was looking on Walthers site and I found a couple, but they don't tell you the sizes ( height, lenght and footprint ) does anyone have or saw any of the following and can help me with sizes, since my place is restricted I want to go to the right one.

I managed to find these two only, does anyone know their sizes?

Crane1 (http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/361-391)

Crane2 (http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/361-391)

If you know of any other "small" cranes could you kindly post the links!!

Thanks.

[jbaakko]

Hummm, I got the same item linked twice. But I think you're trying to link a jib crane.

Try these:
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/254-68
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/293-8007
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/405-8101
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/552-121127
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/650-9126
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/650-9127
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/650-1120
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/650-1106
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/683-214

If you want to expand a little...
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/933-3067

[Maxitrains]

Hmm, thanks Josh, the 2nd link (crane) is not bad either, but I think its a little short to get things from a boat, your 4th link is one of the cranes I wanted to put in my links, so mostly its those 3 cranes which might fit in my layout.

Crane1 (http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/552-121127)

Crane2 (http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/293-8007)

Crane3 (http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/361-391)

Any more cranes around :P ?

Does anyone has a hint of the sizes of the above mentioned cranes? :confused:

[jbaakko]

If there's a boat involved, I think #3 will be the best.

[Maxitrains]

But I'm not lifting the boat with it :P

[Maxitrains]

Ok, here's the progress so far, on teh building things slowed down a little, I just managed to cover the pillars in bricks, and I tried to work on the windows, tried printing some transperancies but the work ain't good, I need to create frames for the windows, cause its almost that which is the hardest part to make, I still need to fix and work on the doors, make a canopy and lightings.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee188/Maxitrain/Model%20RR/building_8.jpg

Here are some pictures on the progress of the riverside/dock. Worked on the platform, and made some room for the crane which I have to purchase. The I have to make a retaining wall to cover all the sidings in the river. I still have to glue/fix the wooden strips to make the concrete floor.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee188/Maxitrain/Model%20RR/dockside_3.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee188/Maxitrain/Model%20RR/dockside_4.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee188/Maxitrain/Model%20RR/dockside_5.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee188/Maxitrain/Model%20RR/dockside_4b.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee188/Maxitrain/Model%20RR/dockside_6.jpg

[jbaakko]

Looks like you're getting it worked out!

The crane... Yeah, i figured you were not lifting the boat, but I think it looks the best to be used for unloading one.

[UP2CSX]

Maxi. I already commented on how well that wood came out for pavement. It will be a good looking warehouse when it's done.

As far as a fixed crane, you don't really need one. River steamers would have jib cranes so they can unload merchandise at stops with no cranes availabale and I assume that's the kind of traffic you'll be serving. If you have a backhoe available, it's easy to rig one of those as a temporary crane for material up to a few tons. I can't imagine that you would get anything bigger than that at such a small terminal.

[Maxitrains]

Hi Jim, tnx again.

Don't forget that my layout will be in the 40's - 60's era, so I have to be carefull about machinery too, and will be thinking about the crane thing, it will look kinda cool having a small crane on the dock, or else I will have to find at least a boat which has such feature to put it near this dock. Tried to look for some, but either there aren';t any or I was using the wrong keywords.