Want to start weathering models

[chrismoore93]

:) Well, as Christmas approaches, another year has gone by that my model railroad has not gone up. While my house was recently retiled and carpeted, I think the time has come. I have a final spot in my bedroom for a nice little switching railroad that should allow me to start learning the basics of building a model railroad. So, I was looking at my models the other day and saw that, they were a bit shiny. Now me being someone that likes to be prototypical wants to start weathering them. I was just wondering what methods would be easiest for me being 13, or if you know of any that really work well? I would like to be working on something to occupy my time while I start my trackplan.
Thanks,
Chris

[jbaakko]

There's many ways. I'd start with powders, and maybe buy one of those easy weathering washes. Powders are very forgiving though. Hopefully Brakie can provide some insight into his weathering process, I want to test it out on my beat up hoppers.

[grande man]

Hey Chris. Weathering is a lot of fun. I'm a believer in chalk (artist pastels) and genuine Testors Dull Cote. While the results won't be up to the level of some weathering specialists who use advanced technique, the models will look great and a fleet of weathered units is within timely reach.

If you have a Hobby Lobby nearby, you should be able to get the pastels in a kit with six 1/4" square x 3" long sticks for under $10.

Here's a repost of my weathering method. Be sure to remove any windows (or tape them) to keep the Dull Cote off unless you want a dirty trailing unit in a loco consist.

Keep in mind, I'm no expert, and there's usually a right way, a wrong way, and Grande Man's way. :D

The "victim" and supplies.
http://pic15.picturetrail.com/VOL615/3680850/8376099/113512628.jpg

The first step with lighter colored models is to "soot" them with black chalk. Cover the whole model. I prefer an angled brush to work chalk into all the nooks and cranies.
http://pic15.picturetrail.com/VOL615/3680850/8376099/113512618.jpg

Using a paper towel dampened with "wet water" (small amount of detergent, used in scenery work), clean excess soot using a verticle wiping motion. The idea is to leave streaks where they would accumulate on the real thing such as around structure that's above flush.
http://pic15.picturetrail.com/VOL615/3680850/8376099/113512620.jpg

At this point, coat the model with Dull Cote. Since the wheels have been removed, try to keep the spray out of the truck journals. Dull Cote "sets" the black previously added, while at the same time, toning it down somewhat. It also creates a surface that "grabs" lighter colored chalk soon to be added.
http://pic15.picturetrail.com/VOL615/3680850/8376099/113512614.jpg

Using the same brush, add dirt and rust. Since we model the West, little rust is used. Lighter grays can also be added to the lower areas where ballast dust would accumulate on the prototype.
http://pic15.picturetrail.com/VOL615/3680850/8376099/113512626.jpg

We use Floquil Rail Brown to paint wheels. Be sure to keep paint off the bearing area and treads. The trucks are dry brushed with Rail Brown and chalk highlights are added.
http://pic15.picturetrail.com/VOL615/3680850/8376099/113512623.jpg


Presto! The finished hopper at CF&I's Split Rock Mine #4.
http://pic15.picturetrail.com/VOL615/3680850/8376099/210476109.jpg

[chrismoore93]

Thanks for the tips guys. I really enjoyed watching the weathering technique you used on the car Eric. It looks like a fairly easy technique that I should be able to use. As I have some cars from the East, I will have to learn how to rust cars as well.
Thanks,
Chris

[OldGettysk]

Looks good Eric !!!

[enjineerbill]

Well Eric, I had never sen that thread before, thank's for reposting it for us. That hopper turned out very nice, the rivets seem to just pop out now!

Johnny

[grande man]

The cool thing about chalk and Dull Cote is that anyone can get a decent looking weathered effect with a little practice. It's cheap, easy and fast. All three of those factors are important if you have a whole fleet that needs "dirt". It's amazing what just a coat of Dull Coat will do for a shiny plastic model. :)

[MLW]

grande man , that's the best tutorial I have seen and explained. Well done!

[grande man]

grande man , that's the best tutorial I have seen and explained. Well done!

Thanks. That's from a pretty old post...

Here's another model given the same treatment. It's a little more advanced in that it's a lighter base color with more detail, so dark high lights had to be added selectively instead of covering the entire unit from the beginning. Still, it's just a modification of the same principles. Total time spent on it was probably 30 minutes, but that was only because the windows required tape before the Dull Cote was sprayed.

Before.
http://pic15.picturetrail.com/VOL615/3680850/8376099/210476124.jpg

After.
http://pic15.picturetrail.com/VOL615/3680850/8376099/210476120.jpg

http://pic15.picturetrail.com/VOL615/3680850/8376099/210476115.jpg

[MLW]

Nicely done :)

[chrismoore93]

Excellent Model Eric!!!

[grande man]

Excellent Model Eric!!!

Thanks Chris.

I'm ready to see some of yours! Post pics when you can. :cool:

[chrismoore93]

I'll do my best, thanks!!!
Chris

[swizzly]

I also use chalk and Alkahol to weather my Locos and Cars.

http://www.railimages.com/albums/eugenhaenseler/aed.sized.jpg

http://www.railimages.com/albums/eugenhaenseler/abc.sized.jpg

[AGGRO]

Swizzly, I LOVE that Espee bridge!

[Necrosaro420]

Hey Grande Man...Do you happen to have a pic of the box (or even know what brand) those pastels you have are? (the cubed boxes and the sticks?)

I could not find any at my local hobby store, but I did find some oil pastels (thicker than a crayon, thats it).

We do have a Hobby Lobby, but its a bit aways from here, I dont really want to drive out there not knowing exactally what im looking for.

I noticed you have the little case (quarter? sized) that you are using as the "Soot". Can you just use the oil pastel (crayon) one, rub a brush against that and brush the side of the car, with the same results? Thanks!

(these are the ones I purchased)

http://www.dickblick.com/zz200/69/


http://www.dick-blick.com/items/200/69/20069-2409-3ww-l.jpg

[FunValleyLine]

Am sure Grande will answer, however I found some chalks at Michaels which is our local crafts store. Maybe you have one close to you.

[Necrosaro420]

Am sure Grande will answer, however I found some chalks at Michaels which is our local crafts store. Maybe you have one close to you.


Actually, thats where I got the pastels in my post above lol.

When you mean chaulk, is it the same chaulk like you write on a schoolboard with? Do you just crush them up?

[FunValleyLine]

What I found was what I assume is artist chalk in square sticks kinda like chalkboard stuff. I ground it up and put it in old contact lens cases.

[Necrosaro420]

What I found was what I assume is artist chalk in square sticks kinda like chalkboard stuff. I ground it up and put it in old contact lens cases.



Ahhhh okie then. Looks like ill be headed back there for the 3rd day in a row lol, hopefully they have some, I really dont remember...I wrote down some things from what Grande posted above, and I guess I forgot to write down chaulk and just purchased regular oil pastels =( Is there certain colors that is needed?

Im asking because what is this color/type that he is using below out of the little case?

http://pic15.picturetrail.com/VOL615/3680850/8376099/113512626.jpg

[FunValleyLine]

Seems to me I got a pack that had maybe 10 sticks that went from black thru the grays to white and another 10 stick pack that had browns and reds and oranges and lite greens in it. The green does good if you have a damp area and need that nice moldy look.

[Necrosaro420]

And is it just normal chaulk, or is it like a "pastel chaulk" ??

[FunValleyLine]

Was like this http://www.michaels.com/art/online/displayProductPage?productNum=fa0137 or this may work as well http://www.michaels.com/art/online/displayProductPage?productNum=pc0074
I dont know if that is exactly what I got but I crushed it up and it worked. My LHS had nada.

[Necrosaro420]

Was like this http://www.michaels.com/art/online/displayProductPage?productNum=fa0137 or this may work as well http://www.michaels.com/art/online/displayProductPage?productNum=pc0074
I dont know if that is exactly what I got but I crushed it up and it worked. My LHS had nada.

Okie great. I do remember seeing the first link one, the brand anyways, soI know they have them =) Thanks Alot

[Necrosaro420]

Using the same brush, add dirt and rust. Since we model the West, little rust is used. Lighter grays can also be added to the lower areas where ballast dust would accumulate on the prototype.


http://pic15.picturetrail.com/VOL615/3680850/8376099/113512626.jpg


What is used here for the dirt and rust?

[grande man]

What is used here for the dirt and rust?

It's chalk I purchased at the LHS and artist pastels from Hobby Lobby (Derwent brand). The dark charcoal pastels work well for the soot. Sorry I'm so late getting back to this thread.

[Necrosaro420]

It's chalk I purchased at the LHS and artist pastels from Hobby Lobby (Derwent brand). The dark charcoal pastels work well for the soot. Sorry I'm so late getting back to this thread.

What colors are they? I picked up some today, there are 12 colors, and they go from black to white (greys in the middle)

Also, that looks like water or something you are using on your brush? Did you use this on the "soot" too?

[grande man]

What colors are they? I picked up some today, there are 12 colors, and they go from black to white (greys in the middle)

Also, that looks like water or something you are using on your brush? Did you use this on the "soot" too?


You really only need a few basic colors. Black or dark charcoal for the soot, various shades of brown for the dirt and lighter tans/greys for dust/ballast dust, and rust for, well, rust.

I apply the chalk (pastels) dry for the basic result you see earlier in the thread but have used them wet on limited occasions. The "wet water" (drop of dishwashing detergent in pint or so of water) is only used to remove excess "soot" for a streaked effect around ribs, etc with the paper towel.

This is a simple technique. Don't be afraid to try variations on an inexpensive piece of rolling stock for practice. You'll be amazed how easy it is to produce a nice looking model quickly. Soon, you'll get the results you're after and it'll be second nature to you.

[Necrosaro420]

You really only need a few basic colors. Black or dark charcoal for the soot, various shades of brown for the dirt and lighter tans/greys for dust/ballast dust, and rust for, well, rust.

I apply the chalk (pastels) dry for the basic result you see earlier in the thread but have used them wet on limited occasions. The "wet water" (drop of dishwashing detergent in pint or so of water) is only used to remove excess "soot" for a streaked effect around ribs, etc with the paper towel.

This is a simple technique. Don't be afraid to try variations on an inexpensive piece of rolling stock for practice. You'll be amazed how easy it is to produce a nice looking model quickly. Soon, you'll get the results you're after and it'll be second nature to you.


Thanks, this is my first time trying it, so I found a 5$ rolling stock to play with =)

I just want to make sure I get the right things. I got "Soft Pastels" and they feel like chaulk. Then I took some scissors and scraped it into a big pile of black dust, and then used my brush in that to brush the rolling stock?

Thanks!

[grande man]

Thanks, this is my first time trying it, so I found a 5$ rolling stock to play with =)

I just want to make sure I get the right things. I got "Soft Pastels" and they feel like chaulk. Then I took some scissors and scraped it into a big pile of black dust, and then used my brush in that to brush the rolling stock?

Thanks!

It sounds like you're on the right track. You'll have to vary the colors somewhat depending on the base color of the model you're working with, but that experience comes quick. For example, it wouldn't make much since to "soot" a black hopper. In that case you'd probably Dull Cote the model first, then apply lighter tan colored chalk carefully and forego the wet water and paper towel treatment.

Have fun and post pics!

[Necrosaro420]

should you use the dull coat after you put on the rust as well?

[grande man]

I prefer to let the Dull Cote hold the rust (and other lighter colors) on without overspraying it. If you do decide to Dull Cote after applying light colors, their intensity will be reduced considerably.

[Necrosaro420]

ahhh okie thanks. Is there a way to stop it from being messy when I pick up the part I colored then? thanks!

[grande man]

ahhh okie thanks. Is there a way to stop it from being messy when I pick up the part I colored then? thanks!

The Dull Cote "holds" the chalk very well. Messy models have never been a problem for us. Give it a try. I think you'll find out the mess is a non issue. :)

[wongsing]

even a light coat of dull coat will hold the chalk very well, and although it will fade light colors, the less dull coat you use the better! I had to use several coats of pastel to get it right!

-Rich