Appalachian Weathering and Modelworks Car #4-A Railbox from start to finish.

[uspscsx]

-STEP 1: Take "before" shots of car and post the thread.
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Following MrKluke's example on The Railwire, I have decided to start my own "From Start to Finish" thread. The subject of interest is an HO Scale Athearn Ready-To-Roll PS 5277 Box Car in Railbox paint. Road number 42516. Here is a "before" shot of the side and roof.

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a246/csxwatcher/Progress%20Shots%20of%20Weathering/PA131267.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a246/csxwatcher/Progress%20Shots%20of%20Weathering/PA131268.jpg

[uspscsx]

STEP 2: Scrape away lettering with an Xacto. Also, break two stirrups and then have to glue them back. Oh wait, that's not part of the plan!:mad:
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Yes indeed. I broke two of the stirrups, and then glued them back. It doesn't look half-bad if you ask me. But nobody's asking me, so I'll be quiet.:p

This step took me about an hour for one side. I scraped away most of the lettering with my trusty Xacto. It gives it the look of faded paint. Also, if you don't believe that, I saw a Railbox on Friday that looks very similar to this. Unfortunately, Mr. Camera's batteries were dead. I also saw a Railbox on Fallen Flags that had lettering very, very close to this as well. Anyway, I scraped the lettering away. Then, using my trusty, stiff 79 cent Loew-Cornell brush, I used my trusty Loew-Cornell Chalks (Red and Blue) and gave the Railbox Arrows an even more faded look. Streaking, that's what they call it!:rolleyes: The areas that aren't scraped away (I.E. Data, etc.) are going to be "patched." The photo is below...sorry about the size, but 50% from it's original just doesn't show the detail.

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a246/csxwatcher/Progress%20Shots%20of%20Weathering/PA131270.jpg
[Yeah, I used CD cases to hold it up to prevent further breakage of the stirrups:rolleyes:]

That's all for the night. More to come!

[uspscsx]

Darn it, the lighting is bad. Well, in my next step, you'll see it in better light.

[dthurman]

Would a sanding stick work as opposed to an Xacto knife? Remember I do N, so a scratch in N is like a gorge (sp) in a valley. I just bought those new sanding sticks that have a belt that wraps around a tool. Hmm you are giving me ideas here.

[uspscsx]

Would a sanding stick work as opposed to an Xacto knife? Remember I do N, so a scratch in N is like a gorge (sp) in a valley. I just bought those new sanding sticks that have a belt that wraps around a tool. Hmm you are giving me ideas here.
Hmm..Good idea...I've always used an Xacto to "fade" lettering. Except on early Athearns, there I use an eraser.

[CBCNSfan]

OK! quit stalling :D I'm with you this far. The lettering is looking real enough to me. A couple of newbie questions. When using the x-acto blade, are you using the point or the cutting edge of the blade, or a combination of both?
The sanding stick sounds pretty good however when I try sandpaper (emery cloth) on lettering it seems like it takes forever to remove any of it. To me it seemed labour intensive. do you have a method you use with the sandpaper? Maybe the grade of grit I use is too light? Erasers didn't work very good for me, maybe one of those hard grey colored ones might, I can't recall trying one. Now I just strip paint lettering and all, effective but not the best. Now I haven't weathered any cars so they still have their shiny new paint, most I've done is a coat of Dull Coat. Well I'l wait for the next posts. Good thread thanks
http://bestsmileys.com/textinbubble1/13.gif Willis

[dthurman]

OK! quit stalling :D I'm with you this far. The lettering is looking real enough to me. A couple of newbie questions. When using the x-acto blade, are you using the point or the cutting edge of the blade, or a combination of both?
The sanding stick sounds pretty good however when I try sandpaper (emery cloth) on lettering it seems like it takes forever to remove any of it. To me it seemed labour intensive. do you have a method you use with the sandpaper? Maybe the grade of grit I use is too light? Erasers didn't work very good for me, maybe one of those hard grey colored ones might, I can't recall trying one. Now I just strip paint lettering and all, effective but not the best. Now I haven't weathered any cars so they still have their shiny new paint, most I've done is a coat of Dull Coat. Well I'l wait for the next posts. Good thread thanks
http://bestsmileys.com/textinbubble1/13.gif Willis

Willis

I haven't tried it yet, I bought some of these the other day and think they may have a value, the guys at modeltrainsweathered.com recommened I use sandpaper to make fixes and changes, figured it would work for fading or paint loss on letters.

Here is what I bought, they come in different grits.


http://www.excelhobbyblades.com/images/stick.jpg

Here is their site: Excel Hobby Blades (http://www.excelhobbyblades.com/index.php?cPath=75&osCsid=741bc2603f143225d47c8bb6063af0f6)

[CBCNSfan]

OH! K! I can't recall seeing one of those anywhere, maybe just maybe, I can buckshey one of those it looks promising. I was just using folded sandpaper and pressure with my finger. That tool and it's leverage puts a whole new perspective into view. Thanks for the photo, I'll try something, soon as it quietens down around here. :D

http://bestsmileys.com/textinbubble1/13.gif Willis

[uspscsx]

Sorry guys, haven't gotten anything done today. I will do plenty tomorrow, though. I had to finish up my Wisconsin Central hopper for eBay.

More tomorrow.

[uspscsx]

OK! quit stalling :D I'm with you this far. The lettering is looking real enough to me. A couple of newbie questions. When using the x-acto blade, are you using the point or the cutting edge of the blade, or a combination of both?
The sanding stick sounds pretty good however when I try sandpaper (emery cloth) on lettering it seems like it takes forever to remove any of it. To me it seemed labour intensive. do you have a method you use with the sandpaper? Maybe the grade of grit I use is too light? Erasers didn't work very good for me, maybe one of those hard grey colored ones might, I can't recall trying one. Now I just strip paint lettering and all, effective but not the best. Now I haven't weathered any cars so they still have their shiny new paint, most I've done is a coat of Dull Coat. Well I'l wait for the next posts. Good thread thanks
http://bestsmileys.com/textinbubble1/13.gif Willis
I use the point. I scrape lightly up and down, then in circles.

[uspscsx]

I got some finished last night. I will describe it and add pictures later.

[uspscsx]

This step required to talent whatsoever. Mellow-Mike says my teaching credentials are revoked...but who says he has to know about this...:cool:;)

All I did was scrape, with an Xacto, my pastel chalk onto a paper towel. I spread it all over the side, except the door. I then added a layer of Dullcote. Compare the color now with the color of it "before." Sure beats the heck out of a shiny, neon yellow!

(I'll buff out those scratches, cap'n!;))

Matt

[uspscsx]

Well, the dulled yellow of the Railbox was virtually useless. The Railbox is now a variation of either a golden brown or a shade of dull yellow showing through. Looks great in my opinion...of course I AM the weatherer;). I'll upload a picture tomorrow.

[uspscsx]

Oh, and the scratches from "fading" the logo...seem to have disappeared. Of course, that's a good thing! :)

[uspscsx]

Dullcote is being applied. Pictures later.

[ssw9662]

That car looks awesome!

Can't wait to see more photos!

[uspscsx]

This step involved taking my stiff brush, dipping it into my brown chalk container, and brushing in an up-down motion on the side of the Railbox. That's basically it. I sealed with Dullcote afterwards.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a301/appalachianweatheringandmodelworks/Progress%20Shots/Box%20Cars/PA201313.jpg

The golden-brown color is common to Railboxes. Railboxes such as the below are examples.
http://rr-fallenflags.org/rbox/rbox43733amg.jpg
http://rr-fallenflags.org/rbox/rbox43887atz.jpg
http://rr-fallenflags.org/rbox/rbox42852amg.jpg

NEXT UP: Rust around the edges.

[dthurman]

Not to shabby Matt. I hereby reinstate your weathering license. In fact it is non-revokable from this day forward ;)

[uspscsx]

Not to shabby Matt. I hereby reinstate your weathering license. In fact it is non-revokable from this day forward ;)
:D Hehe. Thanks for the laugh and the comment.

[ssw9662]

Wow, that looks even better now. Sure beats the cheesy fresh out of the shop yellow look.

[uspscsx]

Wow, that looks even better now. Sure beats the cheesy fresh out of the shop yellow look.
Thanks. Now, when you say cheesy, do you mean literally? :p ;) :D

[ssw9662]

Come to think if it, the car DID look cheesy. :p

I wonder what it's loaded with? :D

[uspscsx]

Come to think if it, the car DID look cheesy. :p

I wonder what it's loaded with? :D
Well, since it's not refrigerated....

I think we may have discovered the secret behind that smelly cheese that some people like...:D

[uspscsx]

Well...more progress on the Railbox...I will post photos and a description later.

[uspscsx]

I am kicking myself now! I was in the process of taking a picture of the Railbox when suddenly it fell and smashed three of the wire grabs Athearn installs on it. :mad: :mad: :mad: I will order some from Walthers tomorrow, but this just puts the project on hold EVEN LONGER!!! :mad:

[RCH]

I don't know how crushed they are, but grabs are often bent up on the prototype. You could bend them back into place and even with the remaining defects, there's still a good possibility it would look convincingly real...

[uspscsx]

I don't know how crushed they are, but grabs are often bent up on the prototype. You could bend them back into place and even with the remaining defects, there's still a good possibility it would look convincingly real...
Did I say crushed? Hehehe, I meant completely destroyed and fallen off, nowhere to be found. I am placing an order with Walthers for some stirrups, coupler cut bars, and air hoses. I figure I'll detail the car up a bit.

[RCH]

Oh, that's a completely different can of worms! I hope the body wasn't dented or otherwise damaged...

[uspscsx]

Oh, that's a completely different can of worms! I hope the body wasn't dented or otherwise damaged...
Fortunately, it sustained no damage.

[uspscsx]

This has turned dead, I know. I cannot post anything more until I receive my shipment from Walthers. I have decided to detail it a bit, with air hoses and coupler cut bars. And, of course, metal wheelsets. Quick question: Any other detailing I'm lacking? Athearn RTR's already have wire grabs.

[RCH]

You could always dress up the tack boards. That's a detail most people seem to leave "factory painted" when in reality, they don't stay that way long, if they were ever painted that way. Usually they are little rectangles of unpainted, untreated plywood that weather very quickly and get replaced every so often. Also, the remnants of bad order tags could be "tacked" onto them. I know, it's a microscopic detail, but the presence of those little microscopic details often implies detail elsewhere.

Brake lines could be added, but if you can't see them from the vantage point of an HO scale person standing trackside (i.e., the side sill blocks their view), then I wouldn't bother with them.

I would also recommend you study door tracks up close and personal, if you have the opportunity. They aren't as "solid" as they look on the models. And, when you're dealing with plug doors, if the vertical locking bars aren't molded separately, try shadow painting them. It really makes a difference. In fact, that's really the difference between a MM car and most of the others - take a closer look and see. And it points to the true goal of what weatherers are after in our craft: creating the illusion of the weathered prototype. Use "tricks" to create the illusion of detail and you might be surprised how many blanks your imagination can fill in.

[uspscsx]

This is the last shot I got before self-destruction of the stirrups. I will get a better shot in the A.M.

It was mentioned that grime collected in cracks and crevices first. I hadn't thought about that, so I took my brush, dipped it in brown chalk, and worked it around the cracks. I then took an artist crayon and highlighted around every nook and cranny. That got the dirty brown outta the way...

Next was the rust. All I did was around the edges and random dings here and there. This was done by taking my cosmetic sponge, dipping it in hairspray(Pump type), into the chalk, and going around the edges. The dings were achieved by taking the edge of the cosmetic sponge and dabbing it where it was wanted.

As I say, there is usually a right way, a wrong way, and my way. Mine's usually in the middle ;).
I also did the roof, but I'll get those shots and a description tomorrow.


I apologize about the photos. It makes it look too dark in some areas and too light in others.

[uspscsx]

Oh, and the dullness of the door was done by the Dullcote.

[uspscsx]

Yes indeed folks, progress is picking up. A late cancellation of a project a customer was wanting me to do has allowed me extra time. This thing should be done in a jiffy! I just need to get that darn order in with Walthers. Will do tonight.

The roof...I kinda, sorta, maybe...copied Mellow-Mike a litttttttle bit. I took my cosmetic sponge(wet with hairspray, then dipped in brown chalk) and dabbed it along the point on the roof. I then simulated where rust had formed from running water down the side. Then, extensive rust was added on the edges. Dullcote finished it off. THAT'S IT! It was simple, and only required a steady hand.

The roof in my opinion turned out exceptionally well. I took several FILM photos in Nashville from the balcony(and my room) of The Union Station Hotel in Nashville. A lot of roofs look similar to this one. Compare it to Mellow-Mike's:

http://www.mellowmike.com/FR8_Cars/RBOX_white1.html
His...(I cannot get it to become a photo??? :confused: )

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a301/appalachianweatheringandmodelworks/Progress%20Shots/Box%20Cars/PB041368.jpg
Mine.

My rust is more extensive, but hey, it is after all, a RAILBOX!!!

Enjoy.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a301/appalachianweatheringandmodelworks/Progress%20Shots/Box%20Cars/PB041368.jpg

[uspscsx]

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a301/appalachianweatheringandmodelworks/Progress%20Shots/Box%20Cars/PB041367.jpg

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a301/appalachianweatheringandmodelworks/Progress%20Shots/Box%20Cars/PB041368.jpg

[CBCNSfan]

There's a right way, a wrong way, and my way. Hi Matt, I have no idea of what the right way or wrong would look like, but your way looks great by me.
Very very realistic looking, keep em coming. :D
There's a right way, a wrong way, and my way.

[uspscsx]

Hi Matt, I have no idea of what the right way or wrong would look like, but your way looks great by me.
Very very realistic looking, keep em coming. :D
There's a right way, a wrong way, and my way.
Thanks!

Matt

[uspscsx]

I redid the roof yesterday. I would take a photo but I just Dullcoted side B after weathering it. I will take a photo once the Dullcote dries.

[AGGRO]

Yeah that roof is pretty good.

[uspscsx]

...My prototype photos, and I...I...I ended up redoing the roof. I noticed a lot of the roofs in photos in my collection were rustier than the original version of mine...So, I re-rusted it, so to speak. I used the same methods, etc. It turned out like this:

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a301/appalachianweatheringandmodelworks/Progress%20Shots/Box%20Cars/PB081371.jpg

[uspscsx]

Yeah, I've been listening to too much Rock, I know.;) But, if you know much about Rock, you know that's a line from R.E.M.'s "It's the End of the World as We Know It(And I Feel Fine)."

This was basically brush, hairspray, chalk, and paper towel. I wetted the brush with hairspray, dipped it in chalk, weathered the end heavily, then wiped away the excess. That's virtually it, on both sides.

I'll get that tack board later.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a301/appalachianweatheringandmodelworks/Progress%20Shots/Box%20Cars/PB081381.jpg
End A.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a301/appalachianweatheringandmodelworks/Progress%20Shots/Box%20Cars/PB081383.jpg
End B.

[uspscsx]

I'm edging closer and closer to getting this sucker finished.

This was done exactly like Side A. A little more rust here, though.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a301/appalachianweatheringandmodelworks/Progress%20Shots/Box%20Cars/PB121386.jpg

[uspscsx]

This is virtually just grimy black, oily black, and rust colors from Polly Scale. Oh yeah, and a brush. :rolleyes: I do not have it finished yet, so no pictures. I just thought I'd update you on progress.

[uspscsx]

I received the detail parts yesterday. Hopefully detailing will commence tomorrow.

Do note that the last 4(5 counting this one)posts are from today, for the few of you that follow this. :p

Please forgive me, as I have had diarrhea of the mouth tonight.(Meaning for some odd reason, I want to mispell words and use incorrect grammar.)

[uspscsx]

I did a little detailing last night. I got the air hoses on and painted the tips silver. Tonight/tomorrow will be spent trying to get the stirrups and coupler cut bars on. Oh, joy...

[uspscsx]

I will just attach the photos to save the hassle of resizing them.

Yip-E!

[RexHea]

Matt, I just now got over here to this thread and want to say thank you for the fine information. I have been putting off weathering anything because...well frankly...I really didn't have a clue as where to begin. Thanks to you I am at least ready and willing to start practicing. I hope to see plenty more from you.

[CBCNSfan]

Hi Matt, this is an excellent "How To Do It" thread, many thanks, I believe I'll copy your method and get rid of a few like new unrealistic cars. Thanks for sharing your ideas

http://bestsmileys.com/textinbubble1/13.gif Willis

[sushob]

I certainly hope it goes for more than $9.99 :eek: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6011602503

[uspscsx]

-Gulp-

I do too...I do too.

[uspscsx]

Yikes. It only went for $15.50.

[AGGRO]

Don't give up Matt. Keep at it and study the prototype. And one day, you'll have a 'butt kicking' Railbox ready for eBay.

[uspscsx]

Aggro, I notice yours is dead so far. Don't bidders know good weathering when they see it? ;)

[AGGRO]

Hey!!! No bids so far but 20 watchers last time I checked.

[AGGRO]

Ended at $88. Not too bad....

[uspscsx]

Ended at $88. Not too bad....
Especially for something with no bids for the first 3 or 4 days.

[AGGRO]

HEY MATT! You ever find another Railbox to begin yet? If not and you're still looking, check www.1stplacehobbies.com for various styles of RBOX.