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adurbin
09-16-2009, 12:42 PM
Hello all,

I just wanted to get your opinions on Bachmann EZ track. I have never even attempted a layout before, and am just getting started. I want a realistic look with ballasted track on my layout, once I get it started, but also think that flex track (which seems to be the standard these days) is a bit too much to jump into. The one thing that I dont like about EZ track is that it doesnt look realistic at all going across bridges. What is your all's opinions?

hamltnblue
09-16-2009, 01:08 PM
Depends on how far you want to go. What will your benchwork be like and how large? You could get standard track for curves and flex track for straights and would have little trouble. Some people here use EZ track and like it. You might be able to glue a thin coat of ballast on it. Cant hurt to try.
I'd say start with decent track like atlas and work through the learning curve and get it over.

jeffrey-wimberly
09-16-2009, 01:21 PM
I'm a user of EZ-Track and my entire layout is done with it, turnouts included. On my previous layout I had several bridges, 2 short and 1 long. The 2 short bridges were both plate girder so I laid the EZ-Track right across and once it was ballasted it looked good. On the long bridge I put a piece of flex track across. I know the EZ-Track has built-on roadbed but adding some more ballast makes it look a lot better. The way I do it is to pour the ballast down the centerline of the track then using one of my fingers I push it off to either side so it piles up beside the track completely covering the built-on roadbed. I then use a glue bottle to drip alcohol onto the ballast then use another glue bottle to add a 50/50 mix of white glue and water. After this dries (about 12 hours here) it's hard and will stay in place. If I ever have to pull the track up I just soak the ballast with water and wait about 10 minutes. After that it'll come right up. BTW, use the nickel silver EZ-Track. The steel stuff (black roadbed) is a headache. Also make sure to look down each piece to make sure it isn't bowed. If it's bowed you'll have a little peak where the sections come together and that will cause some unexplained uncouplings. Steamers don't like those little peaks either. On the curves make sure that the rail ends meet sqaurely and aren't slightly off-center.

Selector
09-16-2009, 01:43 PM
It is a good product for a beginner...fast and accurate, and easy to use. But you pay for that convenience. Most of us gravitate to flextrack before long because of its infinitely variable geometry within a given range for the scale.

I found the turnouts to be rather quirky for their cost. The often take some tuning to get them to work consistently. If you get a good one, it should serve you well.

EZ-Track can be covered with a fine layer of ballast material to make it look even better.

-Crandell

Lystermak2
09-16-2009, 06:41 PM
EZ Track is a good type of track for "beginners" and I personally think it is good. Many people in my model railroad club do recommend EZ track. For people who have been into model railroad for many years it is probably not going to be used by model railroaders who have been into the hobby for many years. So if you are a beginner I'd recommend EZ.

UP2CSX
09-16-2009, 10:03 PM
E-Z track itself is fine and it's an easy way for a beginner to get started if they want build a simple oval. If you wand sidings and yards, the E-Z track switches areboth expensive and don't work well. Even with a lot of tuning, they still don't hold the points solidly against the stock rail. You can use E-Z track with conventional switches by building up the roadbed to the E-Z track height and cutting off the big plastic connector. Normal rail joiners will work fine between the two. Just make sure you get the same code size for everything. If the E-Z track is code 100, the switches should be also.

Tuna
09-17-2009, 06:19 AM
I've been using E-Z track for a few years for temporary layouts and it's easy to put together and it stays together. But, I have the same problems with E-Z track as others have already mentioned - the switches are not very good and require tweaking to make work properly and are expensive. I have one steam locomotive that routinely derails its tender on the E-Z track switches and I use #6 switches. Since my E-Z track layouts are just temporary, they do not get any ballast or other 'refinements' - just put together to run trains during the holidays.

I've read several good reports about Kato Unitrack and I bought enough Unitrack to give it a try this winter. I have purchased 2 each right and left #6 turnouts in HO and I like the way they look and work but I haven't actually ran a train on them yet. Maybe next month when I get the chance to create a layout in Unitrack. Unitrack prices are comparable to E-Z track but not as readily available at hobby shops.

Kato sells ballast that matches the roadbed on the Unitrack, so that may help. The problem with Unitrack in HO is the limited number of pieces available. Kato has many, many more pieces of track for "N" scale in Unitrack and the "N" scale people seem really happy with it.

phillip
09-19-2009, 03:12 PM
I spent a small fortune on EZ track when I just started. MAN was that a mistake, sure you can ballast it and mix it with hornby code 100 or whatever but the points keep derailing the trains,save yourself the trouble (agrivation,disapointment,money down the drain) and get something else.

jeffrey-wimberly
09-19-2009, 06:06 PM
As I stated before, the EZ-Track can be hard to work with at times. If it bows in the middle that will give you peaks where the sections come together and can wreak havoc with couplers and especially with large steamers. As for the turnouts, most of mine worked well right out of the package. There were a few that I had to tweak a little to get them to work well. A lot of patience and a pair of needle nose pliers worked wonders. I hardly have a derailment, even at the turnouts. When I do it's usually due to wheel gauge or a coupler trip pin snagging on a rail. That has nothing to do with the quality or brand of the track. I've seen people make a total mess of Atlas track and top of the line turnouts simply because they wanted a diverging route coming off a sharp curve or an immediate downgrade or upgrade coming through the diverging route. I've seen a few people do this and they were lucky to have it work more than half the time.

Tuna
09-20-2009, 03:28 PM
I finally set up a basic oval of Kato Unitrack with a simple siding to see how it worked. I'm pretty happy. The Kato Unitrack went together easy and is easy to take apart. It's totally quiet in operation and no problems with power to the track. I'm running a Digitrax Zepher DCC controller to it and using just one 'feeder' track to provide power and DCC control the the train. I'm using 2 #6 turnouts to create the siding.

When using Bachmann E-Z Track, I learned to put a straight section prior to each turnout as my Genesis UP 844 picked the switches if it was still in a turn when it hit the switch. I also had a continous problem with my IHC Gold series Pacific tender derailing on more than one E-Z Track switch.

So, I put both to the test on my basic Unitrack layout. Both #6 turnouts are connected to 22" radius turns and UP 844 went right through them each and every time whether they were straight through or set to turn out and all all speeds from barely moving to full throttle. Ditto my IHC Pacific. The tender on the Pacific is stable at all speeds also.

I like the Unitrack.

Now I have a lot of E-Z Track to sell!!!

midrange
09-20-2009, 08:18 PM
i have some EZ track but i won't use it in my set up.. Just my taste. I use my ez track to set up quick for testing or short temp use.

Andy LNWR
09-20-2009, 08:27 PM
Greetings.
I am very new to this hobby. I bought some E-Z track as it is ideal for setting up a temporary layout on the floor until I can get around to developing a layout in the basement.

james-trainmaster
09-21-2009, 04:42 AM
all my curves are bachmann ez track,every thing else is atlas.i like i don"t have to ballast it.

Dualcore
02-14-2010, 03:23 PM
One thing that hasn't been mentioned, is the 18" radius curve built into a E-Z track turnout. I was intending to model The Santa Fe El Capitan till I figured that out. Maybe I'll use mine and make a On30 layout.

jeffrey-wimberly
02-14-2010, 04:04 PM
No, the 18" radius curve is not built into the EZ-Track #4 turnout. To join two turnout diverging tracks on a standard oval you need a short curved section that comes with the turnout. This makes it possible to join the two turnouts with the standard 18" raduis curve pieces.

Dualcore
02-14-2010, 04:13 PM
I've got older track. When I bought mine, there was only one turnout. With a built-in curved diverging track. Makes it useless for passenger operation.

jeffrey-wimberly
02-14-2010, 04:49 PM
Sounds like you need a #5 or #6 turnout.

Dualcore
02-15-2010, 02:51 AM
I was trying to shoehorn a passenger service HO layout into a 16x17 ft room. Circumstances have made me switch to N scale. No room. I am reduced to a 35x60 in table. But, I have come to the conclusion that all my E-Z track will make a perfect On30 empire. I've got kitbashing plans, for when I learn some more.

waredbear
02-15-2010, 01:23 PM
Now I have a lot of E-Z Track to sell!!!

Just what I like to hear when I'm looking for some E-Z track. :D I'm using the E-Z track system because I don't have a permanent layout. I'm making temporary layouts for my grandson so we can run trains from time to time. The E-Z track system is perfect for making layouts on the basement floor. I'm waiting on a shipment as I type. It is somewhere in Mississippi...or Alabama. I also bought some straight track last night. Now I need some turn-outs. Next I want to pick-up a DCC system that we can use. Anybody else have some E-Z track they want to get rid of for a good cause?

Dualcore
02-16-2010, 07:56 AM
Now that I understand it's limitations, I'm pretty happy. Have always wanted a Shay,
but in HO or N, they are too small to see details, not to mention delicate. In On30, they are big enough to appreciate. Short, 1880's style passenger cars look cool. Ideas about kit-bashing a rail truck......I see track crossing the horizon. I guess I better go see
where it leads.

nwdrummer379
02-16-2010, 09:17 AM
I started out with steel power loc track :eek: then "upgraded" to E-Z. I like it overall and I've had it for about 6 years now. The only problem is? the turnouts. I have 5 of them, 3 right and 2 left. All but one have been replaced due to the fact that they can be a real peice of crap since they don't hold the points. I don't have enough extra cash to switch over to Atlas so I'll deal with it for now. I just have to double check that the points are lined up before I spot a car on a particular siding. :rolleyes:

scibiz
12-31-2010, 03:39 PM
[QUOTE=adurbin;141849]Hello all,

My Experiences.

When I see the videos from Bachmann and read the posts here, and see other HO videos, I get the impression that having all the rails clean and free of contamnation is important.

If the EZ Track is in a permanent installation it will accumulate contamination, etc. After some time, I can see how it could be a problem. But if the layout is periodically cleaned I would think it would be okay. Also, multiple power feed points would be helpful. So, I think it is okay for temporary installations.

I recently started to get back into HO and started to buy Bachmann stuff. I found that the tolerances were low on some HO running stock, so it could be a problem at the switches. I did not like the engines but I liked the Silver Series cars. The switches have small plastic protrusions. I bought 5 engines from Bachmann with DCC, plus some analog engines, plus the EZ track, plus Atlas 100 track. But, I sold the engines on E Bay and bought MTH and Proto engines on E Bay (not expensive).

I kept the EZ track and Silver Series cars.

I sold the Atlas 100 tracks. It seemed cheap. Also, I simplified the layout to have only 4 switches. It might be made more complicated later. The DCC is just controlling the engines.

If one looks at U Tube, most EZ Track installations seem temporary, which seems to be the strong point of EZ Track. And, you can keep the temporary track clean.

PS: The silver looks nicer than all black.

scibiz
01-02-2011, 06:21 AM
I am not an expert.

After being away from HO for some time I re-started.

But I have bought a variety of equipment and am still testing some.

I am making a smaller layout with DCC and some good engines. I am using silver EZ Track for now.

But I am happy to chat.

Both EZ Track and Atlas seem cheap. One can pay a fortune for good track.
I saw one package on E Bay for $1000. of what seemed to be a good starter package of better grade track.

RDC1
01-09-2011, 06:43 AM
Does anyone have photos of how they secured the E-Z Track to the layout?

~ Dave

Selector
01-09-2011, 09:09 AM
I don't, but I can describe what to do. Assuming it won't stay flat for some reason, or that it undulates due to a less than ideal surface, you could shim under it with cardstock cut from breakfast cereal boxes.

If it lies well, but you want to fix it in place, many of us use a very thin sheen of acrylic latex adhesive caulk. This is not to be spread like peanut butter, but more like a thin skiff of soft margarine that a stingy person would want on a slice of bread. A little goes a long way. You place a thin bead of it down the center line of the track plan, spread it thinly with a plastic card, a spackle spatula, or whatever, and then relay your track elements. It would not hurt to weight the tracks with soda tins or soup tins placed on the rails. However, if your base is not very flat, weighting the rails makes them conform to the non-flat surface, and you will end up with an undulating and rocking rail system. Also, you will have wasted a lot of caulk if you don't weight them on a wavy surface. Hence, it is important to have a good surface prepared.

jeffrey-wimberly
01-09-2011, 09:34 AM
Does anyone have photos of how they secured the E-Z Track to the layout?

~ Dave
My layout top is plywood covered with white foam. I laid the EZ-Track on the foam then when I was satisfied with the arrangement I covered the foam with wall joint compound including the bottom half of the EZ-Track roadbed. Later the compound will be sanded smooth and the ground cover applied.

http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/vv186/Running-Bear/P1011413-1.jpg

RDC1
01-09-2011, 10:37 AM
Thank you both!

Chemdawg
01-16-2011, 09:29 AM
My layout top is plywood covered with white foam. I laid the EZ-Track on the foam then when I was satisfied with the arrangement I covered the foam with wall joint compound including the bottom half of the EZ-Track roadbed. Later the compound will be sanded smooth and the ground cover applied.

http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/vv186/Running-Bear/P1011413-1.jpg

I had to look twice at that. At first I thought it was a winter scene!!! I am coming back to this hobby after a almost 30 year Hiatus. I too bought some Bachmann sets, so that I had a place to start. I quickly learned that it wasn't the best quality. But I am still torn on whether to use EZ Track or not. I have two sets of Ez track that came with the 00501 bachmann set. I combined that stuff into a dogbone layout with the turnouts being used to store the unused locos and cars. It works great as it is.

However, I want to expand. I wasn't sure the EZ track was the way I wanted to go because of how expensive it is. The turnouts are expensive as well. So for me it's not about quality right now it's about the price. I am still doing my research though.

Selector
01-16-2011, 09:50 AM
You can't get much cheaper than hand-laying your own track, and many do that. Same with making your own turnouts. But a lot of people, after a time hand-laying will restort to Micro Engineering track or Atlas, or Peco. You can make an infinite variety of track layouts with flex track. If you shop around, you can get each 3' length for about $3, give or take 50 cents. 3' of EZ-Track will be about three times as much.

Peco turnouts are my favourite right now. They work reliably, and they look okay. I use their Streamline Code 83 #6 ""insulfrog" turnouts that are meant to be DCC-friendly. They aren't exactly cheap, but they will last a long time if you treat them well.

I also make my own turnouts out of rail stock, PCB ties, solder, and wooden fillers for the ties. I can make a much better turnout than most any commercial one as far as smoothness and tolerances are concerned. For about half the price.

scibiz
01-16-2011, 01:02 PM
I have a smaller layout. I bought the EZ Track, looked at it at decided to sell it on E Bay and replace with Kato. The EZ track has more pieces. Kato seems better made.

jeffrey-wimberly
01-16-2011, 01:59 PM
I started using EZ-Track back in the very early 90's. To me it was easier than working with the Atlas flex track and cork roadbed. The Bachmann turnouts can be problematic at first but some simple modifications can be made pretty reliable. Turnouts are another reason I stopped Atlas track. Some of the larger turnouts were OK but the smaller snap switches were a constant PITA. No matter how I adjusted them or shimmed them there was a derailment nearly every time a train went through. I still have the occasional minor derailment with the Bachmann turnouts. That happens 1 to 2 times a month at the maximum. I find the manual turnouts to be the most reliable as they lock in position.

scibiz
01-16-2011, 04:26 PM
I have been away from HO, and getting back into it.
I bought some Atlas and EZ Track.Do you have any experience with Kato ?

diburning
01-16-2011, 04:39 PM
I have both Atlas True-Track and Bachmann EZ-Track. I'd say go for the EZ-Track. The Atlas switches are junk.

jeffrey-wimberly
01-16-2011, 04:51 PM
No experience whatsoever with Kato. I do know it's more expensive than the others.

Tuna
01-18-2011, 12:34 PM
I have been away from HO, and getting back into it.
I bought some Atlas and EZ Track.Do you have any experience with Kato ?

KATO is all I use now. I like it much better than E-Z track. I use #6 switches and do not have any problems with them. Since my layouts are temporary (winter months only), track like KATO is perfect for me. Take it out, snap it together, hook up the DCC power lines and the switch control wires and it always works. I have enough track to create 2 main lines and 3-4 sides tracks for a yard.

It would be nice if KATO made a few more pieces of track in HO like they do in N scale plus an adaptor track for when you really need to use Altas track for something.

DoubleDAZ
01-18-2011, 03:08 PM
KATO is all I use now. I like it much better than E-Z track. I use #6 switches and do not have any problems with them. Since my layouts are temporary (winter months only), track like KATO is perfect for me. Take it out, snap it together, hook up the DCC power lines and the switch control wires and it always works. I have enough track to create 2 main lines and 3-4 sides tracks for a yard.

It would be nice if KATO made a few more pieces of track in HO like they do in N scale plus an adaptor track for when you really need to use Altas track for something.

I'm doing N-Scale and I'm also tying to decide to stay with E-Z Track or move to something else. I'm interested in your specific reasons for choosing Kato vice E-Z Track. I've got about $100 invested in E-Z track, but I'm having 2nd thoughts, mostly because I'd like to use FlexTrack for straight runs to add some gentle curves.

Also, and more important to me, I'm about 5 months from beginning construction on a 10x6 layout that will have to be portable. It will be done in 2-4 sections and I'm currently working on designing two 10x3 sections. The sections will back against each other using tunnels to go to/from each section. I might cut both sections in half to give me four 5x3 sections to make it easier to assemble/disassemble 3 times a year. At any rate, I'm interested in how you deal with your temporary layout.

scibiz
01-18-2011, 03:18 PM
KATO is all I use now. I like it much better than E-Z track. I use #6 switches and do not have any problems with them. Since my layouts are temporary (winter months only), track like KATO is perfect for me. Take it out, snap it together, hook up the DCC power lines and the switch control wires and it always works. I have enough track to create 2 main lines and 3-4 sides tracks for a yard.

It would be nice if KATO made a few more pieces of track in HO like they do in N scale plus an adaptor track for when you really need to use Altas track for something.

*****************

I am starting from scratch.

I bought Kato, EZ Track, and Atlas. I sold all the stuff except for the Kato track on E Bay. I am the same as you. #6 switches.

I am looking for quality.
I bought some Bachmann stuff and sold it all.
The Proto engines I like. I bought three.
Bought one Athearn engine and was impressed.
Bought a few MTH engines and sold them immediately on E Bay: too complicated and fragile.

DCC - bought an MRC Prodigy hand held.

Live in an appartment. Space is a problem.

scibiz
01-18-2011, 03:20 PM
I'm doing N-Scale and I'm also tying to decide to stay with E-Z Track or move to something else. I'm interested in your specific reasons for choosing Kato vice E-Z Track. I've got about $100 invested in E-Z track, but I'm having 2nd thoughts, mostly because I'd like to use FlexTrack for straight runs to add some gentle curves.

Also, and more important to me, I'm about 5 months from beginning construction on a 10x6 layout that will have to be portable. It will be done in 2-4 sections and I'm currently working on designing two 10x3 sections. The sections will back against each other using tunnels to go to/from each section. I might cut both sections in half to give me four 5x3 sections to make it easier to assemble/disassemble 3 times a year. At any rate, I'm interested in how you deal with your temporary layout.

Just seemed cheap. The grey or silver is better than the black. The black looks very cheap. I question how many times you can set it up and put it away, It looks like it wil lnot stand up.

DoubleDAZ
01-18-2011, 04:04 PM
Just seemed cheap. The grey or silver is better than the black. The black looks very cheap. I question how many times you can set it up and put it away, It looks like it wil lnot stand up.

I was a little worried about that too, but I don't intend to take it apart and they seem to be holding up rather well to my playing around at the moment.

My layout will be built using modular techniques, like making sure only a few straight tracks cross from one section to the next, etc. I figure if push comes to shove, I'll simply replace a few track pieces every so often.

Isn't Kato a bit more expensive than E-Z Track though?

Oh, and I don't use the black at all. I'll be giving Kato a few more looks over the next few months, then it will be time to decide.

scibiz
01-18-2011, 05:12 PM
Its just a hobby. Nothing toget excited over.

scibiz
01-18-2011, 05:13 PM
Its just a hobby. Yeah stick with it for now.

jeffrey-wimberly
01-18-2011, 05:25 PM
The black roadbed EZ-Track with the steel rail is crap. The gray roadbed EZ-Track with nickel-silver rail is much better and is all I use. I looked at the Kato track some years ago and decided it was too expensive. Also it didn't have as many choices of track pieces as the EZ-Track even though I still had to fashion some track pieces myself to fill short gaps.

scibiz
01-18-2011, 06:17 PM
You have a complicated layout- from the few pictures posted that I saw. I would think that you might use more flex type track and permanently install everything. I still have not decided on a course I will take.

What I do like are the DCC controls.

Can one link the operation of all the switches etc completely to a laptop ?

jeffrey-wimberly
01-18-2011, 07:04 PM
You have a complicated layout- from the few pictures posted that I saw. I would think that you might use more flex type track and permanently install everything. I still have not decided on a course I will take.

What I do like are the DCC controls.

Can one link the operation of all the switches etc completely to a laptop ?
My track is permanently installed. The plastic roadbed is half buried in wall joint compound and isn't going anywhere without being pried up with a screwdriver. It took me two days to take up half the track so I could change the layout to a walk-in design.

That I don't know. Being that the DCC turnouts get their commands through the track it should be possible.

Tuna
01-19-2011, 10:12 AM
I'm doing N-Scale and I'm also tying to decide to stay with E-Z Track or move to something else. I'm interested in your specific reasons for choosing Kato vice E-Z Track. I've got about $100 invested in E-Z track, but I'm having 2nd thoughts, mostly because I'd like to use FlexTrack for straight runs to add some gentle curves.

Also, and more important to me, I'm about 5 months from beginning construction on a 10x6 layout that will have to be portable. It will be done in 2-4 sections and I'm currently working on designing two 10x3 sections. The sections will back against each other using tunnels to go to/from each section. I might cut both sections in half to give me four 5x3 sections to make it easier to assemble/disassemble 3 times a year. At any rate, I'm interested in how you deal with your temporary layout.

I started with E-Z Track and it worked good until I started adding switches for sidings and yards. The E-Z Track switches just caused too much frustration and required too much massaging to get to work reliably. Also, if the switch was just after or before a turn, my big steamers would pick the switch too much. I bought a KATO starter set and some switches to see how it was. Sold all my E-Z Track the next year.

KATO has a lot of N-scale Unitrack available - a lot more than they have for HO. It's easy to put together and the switches are better than the E-Z Track. Check out the KATO web site for all the pieces that are available http://www.katousa.com/
KATO even has balast that matches the plastic roadbed if/when you want to make the layout more permanent.

As for my temporary layouts, they are on the floor for now - no tables or benches. Pretty rudimentary but still fun for me as I get to change the track configuration every winter when I set it up. I place buildings and other stuff around the track whereever it looks right. I use DCC for all my locomotives and a standard power pack for controlling the switches. My passengers cars us Rapido interior lights that are battery operated and use a magetic wand to turn them on and off. It would be nice if KATO made an electro-magnetic de-coupler section of track. Glueing a magnet between the rails works but they work sometimes when I don't want them to work.

DoubleDAZ
01-19-2011, 02:17 PM
Thanks, Tuna. I've checked out the Kato site before, but it's hard to tell by just looking at photos. Even looking at them in the LHS makes it hard because of the plastic wrapping. So far, the E-Z Track is working fine, except for 1 switch, but I still might buy some Kato UniTrack just to see for myself. I'm leaning toward a dual-run layout anyway, so having one with E-Z Track and one with UniTrack wouldn't be so bad, at least to start with.

I want a more permanent layout, but I admit it was a lot of fun using new designs every so often with the old Lionel set I had as a kid.

BTW, have you seen their DCC-controlled coupler? They had a link, but for some reason they either took it down or it's just not working right now. The coupler was on a Mikado, so it could only uncouple the whole consist and not individual cars.

Tuna
01-21-2011, 09:49 AM
DoubleDAZ, order the KATO basic Unitrack set (3-102) and a couple of #6 powered switches (2-860 & 2-861). That will get you started and that is what I did.

With the E-Z Track, the snap hook holds the track pieces together while you have to make sure that the track joiners line up to make the current flow between track pieces. I found that the joiners didn't always line up and sometimes got loose over time.

With the Unitrack, the couplers do both - connect the track electrically and the plastic pieces together. The KATO joiners rarely cause me any concern and when they do, they can be removed quickly and replaced. Try doing that with the E-Z Track.

DoubleDAZ
01-21-2011, 03:45 PM
I plan on doing that just as soon as I find a comparable set for N-scale. My layout is going to be 2 levels with separate layouts on each level (though I still have to explore DCC power/wiring requirements). One level will be a relatively simple loop in a 10x2.5 space. The other will be more involved on the full 10x6 space and run under/around the top level. Both will be bisected down the 10' length by a diorama of some sort and use tunnels to run between the 2 sections and the section will come apart. Think of it as a 2-level 20x3 shelf layout folded in half back around itself.

If I buy some Unitrack, I can always use it or the E-Z Track for one of the levels and eventually convert all to the same brand track. I intend to try out my design using 2 simple ovals as soon as my non-working locomotive comes back from Bachmann. I already have enough E-Z Track for an 8x4 oval with 2 passing sidings, so all I neeed is enough Unitrack to make an 8x2.5 oval. I think I'll get enough to add one passing siding too just so I can compare turnout operation, etc. I may just go ahead and get the DCC system and a DCC loco too. Then I'll have enough to play with while I decide on my final design and which track to use.

I'm also thinking of using their Double Track for the upper layout, so do you have any experience with that? Might be easier though to just run 2 loops so I could vary each a bit. I'm not sure the Double Track will fit within the space I've allotted.

Guess I'll have to duplicate my XTrkCAD design using the Unitrack parameter files, if they have them, to make sure things fit the way I hope they will. I also want to see how Flextrack looks with the Unitrack. I'd really like to use Flextrack for the straight runs so I can curve them ever so slightly, but that's not a must have. I'd also like to incorporate some uneven terrain to simulate the gentile hills found in the wide open spaces without creating an actual uphill incline.

peted
02-08-2011, 12:36 PM
I bought some EZ track for my 6 year old and am going to permenantly set it on a plywood layout. Is there another way to adhere the tracks than using the glue method. I see small holes in each track...are there nails/pins than can work as well?

Dustin1980
11-14-2011, 08:16 AM
Im laying ez track on wood plat form what is the best way to deadin all the nose? i dont wanna use foam or glue it down i plan to nail it down but was wondering what would make it quieter?

DakotaLove39
11-14-2011, 04:58 PM
I bought some EZ track for my 6 year old and am going to permenantly set it on a plywood layout. Is there another way to adhere the tracks than using the glue method. I see small holes in each track...are there nails/pins than can work as well?

Nails work, yes, however I can't remember which type, other than they're very small.

kfh227
11-14-2011, 05:19 PM
Had to do some googling:
http://www.modelgeeks.com/Uwe/Forum.aspx/rail/6980/Bachmann-EZ-Track-Question

Looks like your best bet is to drill your own holes into EZ track with counter sink and use #4 wood screws.

It's actually a rather inexpensive solution. Boxes of 3/4" #4 screws are very inexpensive.

As for drilling plastic. Do the holes using the drill set to forward. To do countersinks, you want to run the drill in reverse! Trust me, it works. If you go forward, you will have little control over how deep those counter sinks are.

Plastic mounted to plywood will be a bit loud though. With some lionel track, I put carpet padding and inexpensive green carpet down and loosly screwed teh track down. VERY QUIET! Not sure what your plans for decorating are though.

jeffrey-wimberly
11-14-2011, 05:37 PM
What I did on mine was put a 1/2" sheet of white bead board down on the plywood and laid the track on that. I then applied an 1/8" to 3/16" layer of drywall joint compound over all the exposed bead board and around the base of the EZ-Track roadbed. Once this dried I built my scenery on it.

Dualcore
11-16-2011, 08:25 AM
If you use carpet, don't use shag. Gets in the gears, trust me. Try using cut pile. The cut out shapes make excellent small valleys. You might think about using carpet nails to hold the track in place. Placing a nail at the edge of the plastic, using the head of the nail to hold it in place. The nail heads will disappear under the layers of scenery